Front Axle U-Joints

[SBeretz]

Well, my truck has about a 110K on it and now the front left axle u joint is going bad. I am thinking I am going to change both at once. I have a couple of questions for those of you that have done it yourself.



How hard was it to get the old U-Joint out? Did you have to press it out, or were you able to get it out like a driveshaft U-Joint?



Does it have any of the plastic squirted in stuff like the factory u-joints had in order to hold the joint in place, or is it only the C clips?



I am not too worried about getting the axles out. I have already changed one front unitized hub bearing, so it should be about the same process.



What joints did you replace them with. I was just going to go to NAPA and get what they have on the shelf. Hopefully it is a greasable type. Anyhow, thanks for the help and if there are any good "how to's" out there I would appreciate it. Thanks. Scotty

 

[mwilson]

Comes apart just like a driveshaft u-joint. Hammer and vise method, no problem. Remember to postition the grease fitting inward so you can get the grease gun on the fitting when you service the truck. No plastic goo on my '06, just standard retainers.



Part number for greasable u-joint at NAPA will be PUJ 464. Should cost $60. 00 or so at you local store





That is what I put in mine at replacement time. They offer a lower cost alternative but given the time involved to replace one of them made buying the higher quality joint easier to swallow.



Mike.

 

[SBeretz]

Thanks for the heads up Mike. I am not really looking forward to doing this job, but I figure I will knock them both out and hope they last at least another 100K or more. Scotty

 

[rscurtis]

Joe Donnelly recommends installing them so the grease fitting is under compression, not tension.

 

[steved]

We installed them ourselves... not that big a job if you have a small press. I've even used a ball joint press before.

At 110k, I'd replace both... I found both of mine trash at 75k. Typically if one has failed, the other will soon follow.

I installed the "crap" Precisions at 75k, they are still going strong at 245k (although I have lockout hubs)... whatever you buy, get them greaseable because its water intrusion that seemed to have killed mine. Most of "us" don't use our trucks hard enough to worry about whether the joint is greaseable or if the zerk is in a certain way.

 

[DBentley]

Joe Donnelly recommends installing them so the grease fitting is under compression, not tension.

I have heard this before but don't know what it means

 

[rscurtis]

Steved has a good point, but as long as you're going to do it, you may as well do it right. Picture the axle shaft joints at 12 and 6 o'clock. The driven shaft will be at 9 and 3 o'clock. Assuming the truck is going forward, the driver's side grease fitting should be at 1:30, and the passenger's side at 10:30. As others have mentioned, position the fittings so they face toward the center, not toward the wheels.

 

[SBeretz]

Well, I broke everything down and installed two new PUJ 464's from NAPA yesterday. The drivers side was fairly easy in getting everything off, as I have replaced the hub unit bearing previously and I Anti Seized everything when I put it back together. Well, the passenger side took a LONG time. I tried using a heavy duty Snap On puller and beating it. Neither budged in. Finally had to use a small flat chisel and beat it in a little at a time till it finally let go.

After I got it apart, I ended up trying to get the old joints out with a puller, bench vise and the old socket and hammer technique. Well, none of them budged it, so I torched the trunions off and the caps popped out finally. I didn't want to have to use heat, but I was stranded and needed to get it done. Well, after that I Anti Seized EVERYTHING and put it back together. Took me 12 HOURS total. I was whipped. Anyhow, they are done and it works and drives well. Thanks for all the heads up. Saved a few bucks doing it myself, but man, I hope I don't have to do it again for at least 200K miles!!!!! Scotty

 

[Cosmo]

Steved has a good point, but as long as you're going to do it, you may as well do it right. Picture the axle shaft joints at 12 and 6 o'clock. The driven shaft will be at 9 and 3 o'clock. Assuming the truck is going forward, the driver's side grease fitting should be at 1:30, and the passenger's side at 10:30. As others have mentioned, position the fittings so they face toward the center, not toward the wheels.

I never thought about the forces like that before, but it makes sense.





Any of you run the Spicer joints? I have some slop in one of my front joints and need to replace it but nobody in town carries Spicer. NAPA can order them, but they don't seem to want to make a sale as I'm having to hound them to get info.

 

[SBeretz]

I placed the fittings so they both face inward. If anything it will make it easier to put some grease in them.

I ran the NAPA joints. Not sure who they are made by though. Scotty

 

[steved]

I ran the NAPA joints. Not sure who they are made by though.

Scotty

Last I knew, they were repackaged Precision... at least the one's I held in my hand were...

 

[steved]

Any of you run the Spicer joints? I have some slop in one of my front joints and need to replace it but nobody in town carries Spicer. NAPA can order them, but they don't seem to want to make a sale as I'm having to hound them to get info.

You can get the Spicer joints at RockAuto... just make sure they are greaseable.

 

[SBeretz]

Last I knew, they were repackaged Precision... at least the one's I held in my hand were...

Any big issues with them? Just wondering. They are there now, but I hope they are decent enough to last another 110K! I did Anti seize everything, so hopefully they come apart a little easier the next time! Scotty

 

[steved]

Any big issues with them? Just wondering. They are there now, but I hope they are decent enough to last another 110K! I did Anti seize everything, so hopefully they come apart a little easier the next time! Scotty

I've ran a lot of Precision over the years... never had a problem with any of them. I have them in the knuckles of my truck, but they rarely get use because of the Dynatrac kit.

 

[SBeretz]

Gotcha. Well, heres to hoping they hold up. Never had a problem with them in my drivelines, so hopefully they work well in the axles! Scotty

 

[mwilson]

From my experience they are equal in quality to the Spicer U-Joints, and believe me if I had any doubts they would not have been installed in any of of my Dodge trucks over the years.



As a matter of fact it seems the seals that Precision uses are actually superior to Spicer when you compare the two.



I sold Precision joints many years ago under the Chicago Rawhide (C/R) brand for Class 6-8 trucks and heavy equipment applications.

No problems and great quality.



Go forth and drive, it's all good!!!!!



Mike.

 

[SBeretz]

Thats good to know Mike. My old man and I have used NAPA parts for a long time and they have been some of the better parts we have used for general purpose type stuff. Scotty