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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front Ball Joints?

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Jake The Snake

TDR MEMBER
I have just taken my 2002 2500 QC 4X4 auto trans in to the dealership for a "clunk" in the frontend that you guys said could be a variety of issues. The dealership said that the problem was upper and lower ball joints, frozen hub bearing on the right front wheel and various other parts as yet not discussed. The real shocker is that I have 17,500 miles on the green beast and I use it as a daily driver to and from my house to the office. It has never towed anything and the heaviest load ever carried is about 500 lbs. in the bed. I have driven every mile ever put on this truck and have never abused this truck in any way and it has never been used in 4WD except for once in a very easy going place. I am blown away with the need to replace the front ball joints with this few "easy" miles on my truck. What do you guys think?
 
My truck has 110,000 miles on it and the original ball joints are still tight.



I am glad I live in Wyoming which has the best highways I have driven on instead of Illinois which has about the worst highways I have ever driven on (except for Pennsylvania's).



What do you think?
 
Compared to the 5. 9 gasser or the V10, the Cummins is real hard on the front end due to it's weight. And being ball joints instead of king pins, and the hubs are this one piece instead of the older style, it's my understanding that this dana 60 is "weaker" compared to the king pins. I'm going on the fact that dana 30's and 44's were ball joints, and the old dana 60 is king pins. Personally I was aware of this problem when I decided to go 4x4, but that's me. It does seem odd that they went so early. My hub went on the passenger side at 50k, nice little $225 part for a bad seal. Considering it would have been like $8 on a king pin axle.
 
Jake, I think that it's outrageous!



My first reaction was that you need another opinion but then I realized that the truck is still in warranty so the dealer/repair place has no reason to be ripping you off. (unless maybe they're trying to rip off DC... . )



But the idea that a truck could be built that would wear those parts so prematurely is enough to send me to the Toyota dealer. It's supposed to be HEAVY DUTY and loses ball joints and bearings before it's hardly even broken in?! Sucks, big time.
 
Sounds kind of strange to me. I have 228K miles on my '95. The only part that I have replaced in the front end except for brakes is an axle U-joint. I use 4X4 quite a bit. I wonder if the salty roads in IL are the culpret.
 
Originally posted by Jake The Snake

I have just taken my 2002 2500 QC 4X4 auto trans in to the dealership for a "clunk" in the frontend that you guys said could be a variety of issues. The dealership said that the problem was upper and lower ball joints, frozen hub bearing on the right front wheel and various other parts as yet not discussed. The real shocker is that I have 17,500 miles on the green beast and I use it as a daily driver to and from my house to the office. It has never towed anything and the heaviest load ever carried is about 500 lbs. in the bed. I have driven every mile ever put on this truck and have never abused this truck in any way and it has never been used in 4WD except for once in a very easy going place. I am blown away with the need to replace the front ball joints with this few "easy" miles on my truck. What do you guys think?



195,000 ON MY 99 4X4-Nothing loose. Original trac bar, etc.

Even with warranty replacement, I don't think I would keep a truck that has the possibility that this could repeat itself every 20k or so-at least it's on them this time. Something's definitely not right here-try another dealer.



99 2500 SLT+ QC 4X4 LWB, 195K MI
 
My truck had the ball joints replaced just barely within the warranty at 36K miles. I use my truck every day for commuting and for occasionally pulling a 3000 lb boat. I have done nothing that would have damaged a robust front end. I believe the cause was either a weak design, or a manufacturing defect.



I don't remember what vehicle it was, but there was a recent recall by Chrysler for defective ball joints. (It may have been the mini-vans. ) Hmmmmm.



KRS said, "My first reaction was that you need another opinion but then I realized that the truck is still in warranty so the dealer/repair place has no reason to be ripping you off. "



Guess what. If the dealer makes a "misdiagnosis" on an in-warranty repair, they still get paid. Just not by us. The factory pays. So they are still ripping someone off.





Steve
 
Just got back from the dealership myself with a diagnosis of bad lower ball joints at 41,000 miles. I can't believe it! I feel that I have not abused the front end at all, daily driving mostly with very, very limited trailer use. They want $1500. 00 to do the work!!:--) Am pricing out parts and talking to some techs to see if this is something I want to do myself to save some cash or pay the piper. The service tech said it is a rare case, but that doesn't do me any good. to put Icing on the cake the rear axle seals are going also. :{
 
Hey Pat d, check around 1500. 00 is a rip, just got my done at local discount tire dealer, $403. 00 and that included front and rear alignment, good luck Ian
 
Ball Joints

I had my ball joints replaced at 39000, upper and lower, both sides. Using the normal testing technique (take the weight off and pry on it with a big bar !!!) The dealer stated the joints were "within spec". I had a local shop replace them anyway, with the new Moog unit.



Left lower was so bad it was wearing the case, right upper was almost as bad.



BTW my only complaint to the Dealer was inconsistent steering, plus the front end would not remain aligned. A dealer alignment would last approximayely 1 week, then it would begin "darting" and this was "after" installing Darins steering brace and a DT track bar.



My personal conclusion is that you cannot reliably determine the state of wear of the ball joints while they are on the vehicle.
 
The dealer replaced both "uppers" while in warranty on my own ride at 36k, they still feel tight. . I can second the many me too's by saying if seen worn ball joints on babied trucks and strong ones on high mileage abuse cases. .



I'm getting ready to do its first brake job at 125k, so it will get fresh hub/unit bearings, new rotors, pads, calipers and maybe ball joints, if they are suspect. Might as well while your in there, axle's out etc.



I will also do the rear lining, turn the drums and add the 3500 whl cylinders.



So I think mileage, how we use the truck etc plays a big part, but sometimes I think a lemon batch of parts/sub-standard parts roll down the assy. line and thus your problem.



You might sweet talk them into using/pay the difference an "ingall's" unit as an upper ball joint replacement. Then you will have caster/camber adjust too!



Good luck,

Andy
 
It seems to me that my problem (?) is that this is on a 3500 4x4 and they say that the whole front hub neeeds to come apart including pulling the front axles. Techs at the other Dodge dealer say it is a ***** and even a good tech (admission of them having bad ones?) can spend a whole day on it. Has anyone completed this without pulling the front apart (doing it on the truck)? I will probably go with the Ingalls, heck I just drove by their plant over the holiday. I am not however looking forward to this from the info I am getting. Maybe I'll look in the travelers companion and see if the local guys have done this.
 
Pat

On Ram 1500-3500, 4x4's the wheel is removed, in your case the wheel adapter is also removed, the axle cotter key, nut and washer removed; the brake caliper is removed from the spindle and wired up to the coil springs etc. , then the 4 "12 point" hub bearing bolts are removed, if all goes well the rotor and hub/unit bearing come off (the splined lug studs are pressed through the hub bearing into the rotor), the axles are then slid out, the nuts on the ball joints removed and then the ball joint "c-clamp" press, will press the old ones out and the new ones in, then reverse the above.



A lift, no rust holding the axles and the hub bearing together and the specialty tools make this go more quickly.



Let them do it, I bet you get many miles before you need this service again, at least a 100k.



Good luck

Andy
 
I had both sides done at about 100,000. Now at 130,000 I am hearing some clunking. I am crossing my fingers.



I saved about $100 on 2 sets by ordering online through www.magauto.com



Bought other dealer-only parts there too at a significant discount, like the license plate light sockets that melted, the overhead sunglass compartment door that broke, and the back window latch that also broke.
 
Ball Joints

Dealer replaced upper and lower ball joints, one hug (they destroyed with big hammer),and front track bar at 31,000 miles. Drives straight down the road now.
 
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