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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front brake job help

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Brakes on my 95 a little soft?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) hrvp44 setup tips

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I have done brake jobs on mini truck but never on a full size. I have ordered a Hayes manual but need to replace my rotors and pads before it will get here. ( going on vacation on Wednesday. ) I need to know what wrenches and sockets I will need so i can have everything ready to do it after work. I have a tool to compress the caliper and I know I need a torex size, 45 I think? to pull the caliper, anything else? Does anyone have the page out of the service manual they can e-mail to me.

If anyone can e-mail it to me at -- email address removed --. Thanks
 
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SoCal - the brake job should be smooth as the small truck a far as the job. Two suggestions - 1) get some Sli-Glide (think it's made by Penzoil just my flavor any caliper lube should do fine) it's lube for the caliper slides - clean em up real good and knock off any burs or spots where the caliper meets the slide portion of the mount surface with a file then coat "lightly" with the grease. 2) Cancle the Hayes manual and order the Dodge Truck Shop manual mentioned on the last page of your owners manual - on mine the phone number to order was listed. The little extra you pay for it over the Hayes will be rewarded for the first time you need it. MHO
 
Agree with Joe above, don't forget something the right height to lay the caliper on while you are changing the rotor (hard to find with the caliper in your hands;) ) bg
 
So-Cal, if you have done brakes before, this is really about the same, just the pieces weigh alittle more. The job is not bad, a puller of some fashion is advisable to remove the rotors (and hub adapter if you have them). The biggest mistake you have made was the lack of any sort of pre-planning. I think most do the same, and that is why so many have the problems they do. You have waited till the last minuet before a vacation, which makes everything more difficult. Hopefully you live in an area that has several parts stores to draw from, many now days rent or barrow you the various tools needed to get the job done. Pre-planing a job like this is the most important thing anyone can do, it saves you money and greatly reduces the amount of frustration. I know it's a little late in your case, but for anyone else planing any type of a job, brakes or whatever, pre-planning is the way to go. That extra time gives you a chance to shop around for the best parts, price and advice. I hope your brake job went smoothly, and everything turned out OK.
 
Just remember, if you've never done an ABS-equipped truck before, to open the caliper bleeder screws BEFORE pushing the pistons back into their bores- the ABS doesn't like it if you don't!
 
Bill,



You know I see that comment a bunch here and am wondering what that means? What happens to the ABS sensor/system? Will a code be thrown? Does it break the system? I have done my brakes several times and never worried about it. My 01s ABS never worked anyway, but I am wondering because I will need to do the 03 before long and the ABS works on it.



Thanks for the info!

---Doug
 
The main reason for opening the bleed screw, is to not allow the fluid in the caliper to be pushed back into the system. The fluid at that point in the system get contaminated and if you push the piston back in without opening the bleeder screw, all the junk that has accumulated will be forced back up thru the system. The ABS system is the most frequently affected pieces, they contain many passages for valving, metering and pressure regulation. Dirty fluid in these areas can ruin the parts, as flushing them to remove ALL the contaminates is almost impossible.
 
Thanks everyone. I Did not know the tip about he ABS. I have all the parts and should have no problems tomorrow. Just to make sure Anyone know what size torx drive I need for the calipers. I can't pull the wheel till tomorrow right before I begin.
 
I'm going to the fronts this weekend after 81k. Already have the Hawk Head pads. Question is do the stock pads have shims? Should I re-use them? The Hawk Heads did not come with shims. What kind of lube do you use on the back of the pads? If you use shims do you still need to lube the backs?



Thanks, Tom
 
I have done a lot of brakes over the years, I have seen some pads come with shims(thin gasket material looking things and even aluminum with adhesive on one side) some come with a tube of silicon that you are supposed to apply to the back of the pad where the piston contacts it and some with nothing accompaning them. It has been my understanding that the stuff was to keep brake noise to a minimum. The hardware for disk brakes is different nowdays, they have anti rattle clips etc. that were not present when we first started getting disc brakes. If they came with nothing, I would add nothing. Have fun. bg :)
 
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