Front Brake Pad Change?

[Wally19]

Going to change my brake pads Tonite, and finsh up tommorow after I get the rotor's turned. Is there any thing I should look out for, so I dont end up without a truck for the weekend. Any tricks.



Thanks Jason

 

[rotohead]

front brakes

You didn't say if 4x4 but if you haven't had the rotors off before they may be hard to seperate from the bearing. Be careful not to pull the axle out with the rotor/bearing assy. I use a beefy ty wrap or two to hold the axle up and back (run it through the axle u-joint and around the axle housing) so that it doesn't come out with the rotor. You can create a leak around the axle seal and the left side is expensive to replace. I personally won't turn the rotors unless they really need it and even then I'd weight the benefit of just getting new one's vs. turning. Plenty of info available here on making the calipers slide/operate better by cleaning up the sliding surfaces but it's still a hit/miss deal. Other than that it's pretty straight forward. Good luck.

Chuck Krause

 

[Wally19]

Roto head, thanks for the heads up. It is a 4x4. The reason I am planning on turning the rotors, is one pad is down to metal. It just started to do this on Thursday, and I have driven it about 200+ miles since then. I dont think the rotor is in that bad of shape, but then again, I ain't an expert. New ones cost $125 each form NAPA. I havent checked the Stealer yet. Worst case I can go get them in the morning, but these are the original rotors and pads, and I got 57000 on them. Thats a lot of city driving. would you still suggest I turn Them?

Thanks Jason

 

[CoastyAV8R]

Also be aware of an existing problem with some trucks having sticking calipers. It sounds like that is what happened to yours. From what I recall, the brake lines get some material lodged in them and won't relieve the pressure to the caliper. I think if you do a search you will find more info on this subject. Good luck...



Pat

2001 QC 4x4 ETH

 

[rotohead]

turning rotors or new ones?

I wouldn't even bother with the dealer and I can't find my receipt from Kragens to break it down but I paid $186 for rotors, Raybestos semi-met pads, couple cans of cleaner last month for my latest brake job. I had my original rotors turned once (ended up warped but lived with it for 25k) and did this latest brake job myself at 60k. Don't think they could be turned again and I had metal to metal on one rotor this time. I'd shop around alittle cause $125 a piece for rotors sounds high. If you can get to rotors off w/o the bearing coming with it you've got half the battle won. Try searching front rotors for tips on improving the sliding surface the calipers sit on. I have taken a fine file and emery cloth to smooth out them w/o removing much metal and it helps alittle. Then, as always, it helps to constantly adjust the rears (if drums) to take some of the work away from the fronts. Such a poor design for a big truck.

Chuck Krause