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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front brake rotor advice needed.

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Radiator Rot?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Truck suddenly stops?

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I'm getting close to needing front rotors and would like some input. Auto Zone has rotors for about $90 each and severe service rotors for $160 each. I assume the severe are drilled or slotted. I don't do any towing - just want to go fast and stop quick. What's the best deal? What about EGR? Seems a little expensive - is it worth the money?



Thanks for your opinions.





Tom
 
I bought Bendix rotors (packaged as Made in USA) at Parts Plus (????) store for $60. 00 each. I returned them after I determined I dodn't need to replace ot have existing rotors turned.



There is a good article in the newest REGISTER about front brakes/rotor/u-joint replacement. I may try to replace mine very soon. I have some unidentifiable sound that may be rotor or caliper related.
 
Search the posting's

We had a good thread on rotors and brakes a short while back.

Do a search.



I got my crossdrilled and slotted rotors at One Stop Undercar.

120. 00 each They look great and perform even better.



I paid big bucks for the EGR pads. from EGR

They work great!

They are very expensive!

Are they worth the money?

I don't know.



One thing for sure!

The other day I jacked up the front end to install the steeering box brace.

Much to my amazment the front tires spin free as if there wre no brakes at all.

In the past the calipers would drag and not alow the tires to spin freely.



Use EGR's caliper grease or =.

use "soft pads".

Use new caliper bushing's at every brake job.





Sam Peterson (TDR member) sells the good brake parts too.





SFB
 
Best price you'll find is on Italian Brembo rotors from http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/index.jsp . I paid $47 each (4wd) a few years and over a 100k ago for these known for their high quality rotors, they are $61 now. They also have slotted rotors cheaper than what you were quoted.
 
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The original poster must have a 2wd by the prices listed. On the 2wd the rotor comes with the hub, 4wd it slides onto the hub.



Autozone sells Aimco and Aimco Extreem rotors.



I get Jober cost on Raybestos and my price was not even close to what Autozone charges, I was getting ready to buy them from Autozone but sold truck instead.



Looking back, 100K miles out of a set of rotors aint that bad.



Originally posted by illflem

Best price is on Brembo rotors from http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/index.jsp . I paid $47 each (4wd) a few years and over a 100k ago for these excellent rotors. They also have slotted rotors cheaper than what you were quoted.
 
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"Looking back, 100K miles out of a set of rotors aint that bad. "



i have 175,000 on my front roters and they have never been resurfaced. i still do not get a pulsation. in the begining when i was towing alot , i was even eating up front pads every 20,000 miles. but it's time for new hose's and calipers (trucks pulling when hard stopping) so i'll probably put new roters on just for kicks.
 
Towpro, yes, I do have a 2WD. Do you think the "extreme" rotor is worth the extra money? What benefits would I see?



Tom
 
This is probably a stupid question, but are the rotors seperate from the wheel bearing? I was told that my left side wheel bearing is going bad and I thought if it was all together I'd change everything. I'm not very knowledgeable about brakes and related items so I apologize for this question.

Paul
 
Yes,the rotors are separate from the wheel bearing\hub assy. You will have to remove the hub assy,then knock out the wheel studs,and the rotor will come free.
 
big ram guy???? on a 99 4x4 the roters should be fall off with a pressed wheel bearing , no? knocking out the studs would be for a 2 wheel drive set up, no?
 
On the 4WD the rotors are mounted to the inside of the hub flange. Therefore you have to pull the hub,and then press out the studs.
 
97's should be the same.



I think some 94,and early model 95 had the pass side rotor mounted outboard,and the other side was inboard. I can't remember exactly,but there is something different about them.



The 1500's have rotors that just fall off,as the are outboard mounted.
 
sorry to question you... ... but my 97 2500 4x4 has fall off roters. just pull the caliper off, and slide the roter off the studs. its a sealed hub bearing that is removed by the 4 12 point bolts on the back side of the spindle(besides removing the axle nut). then the bearing gets pressed off the hub. i thought they were all the same set up.
 
Thanks for the responses. One more question, until think of some more, which will happen. Where can you find an aftermarket wheel bearing/hub assembly? I didn't see anything at the tirerack.com site when looking at pads and rotors.

Thanks again

Paul
 
That is strange,97's are inboard mounted. Mine are,and about a dozen or so other 97's I've worked on are. They were all Dana 60's. Only one's I have ever seen different were the early one's,and the 1500's.



Anyone else have rotors mounted outboard of the hub on a 4X4 ?
 
The front wheel bearings are a sealed unit. I think they are available aftermarket,but only for non- 4 wheel ABS. I have heard prices are around $250 US



The dealer prices,around here anyways (Canada),are cheaper than aftermarket. DC dropped the prices a little while ago,and they are 230-280. 00 CDN depending on application. Have your VIN handy when calling DC,so they get the right application listing. Not sure on exact US pricing,but I have heard then are 300. 00 +. I'm sure you could order one from a Canadian dealer,and have it shipped for around $200. 00 US after exchange.
 
on the hood sticker it says 4850# front axle dana

rear axle dana 70



when i first purchased the truck new, i remember crawling around under the front and found a 1994 date on the front axle. not sure if it was a casting date or production date. when i replaced the bj's and u joints i just went by application and every thing was correct.
 
That is really strange.



Maybe Dodge and/or Dana were as using up some older axles.



Consider youself lucky,as pulling the hub can be a real b*tch if it's rusty or siezed,just to change a rotor. Wish mine were that way.
 
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