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Archived front brake rotor removal

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I have a 1996 model 3500 with two wheel drive, abs on rear wheels only and dual rear wheels with a chassis mount camper body. The local Dodge dealers have refused to work on this problem saying the truck is too high and too heavy for thir lifts and they don't work on jackstands.

The adhesive failed on the inside right front brake pad resulting in severe scring of the rotor and I would like to remove the rotor to turn or replace it. This truck has a one piece tubular axle that appears to use all the suspension and wheel components of the four wheel drive system with a free turning splined stub axle substituted for the driven stub axle. Using the service manual for the four wheel drive configuration I have removed the stub axle, the dished wheel adaptor, and the four cap screws retaining the bearing mount on the steering knuckle. The bearing mount appears to be a press fit into the steering knuckle and the instuctions say to remove but don't say how. I fabricated a 12 lb slide hammer applying force only to the 4. 45"od of the bearing mount but it doesn't budge. What technique is normally used to remove this mount on a four wheel drive truck? Is there something I've overlooked? The bearing at 46000 miles appears good, I assume as long as it isn"t removed from the mount that the mount can be reinstalled. The rotor apparently can be removed by driving the wheel studs out of the bearing mount and then the rotor off the bearing mount can this be done with a brass hammer or is a hydraulic press required? Again I assume the bearing mount assembly can be reused with new wheel studs drawn into the assembly. Thanks for any advice.
 
If your hub bearing is in fact the same as a 4 wheel drive hub simply put the four 12 point bolts back in the hub assembly and get a large punch and a large hammer and beat on the heads.

Obviously don't screw the bolts all the way in leave them out a 1/4 of an inch or so and then when they start to get close to the spindle back them out some more. It will take alot of effort to remove the bearing assembly and you may have to clean up the heads of the bolts with a grinder before reassemly.



Junior
 
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Type in ''front hub puller'' Thread starter is casey veldcamp . . This one is gold. Shows home made pullers, stuff you can buy or rent, and differences in new and older designs. be sure to look at all links for the mother of all hub pullers. Enjoy !
 
Once you have the rotor/hub off just go over to a local brake/exhaust shop (around SE Wisconsin Car-X, Midas, GoodYear, Firestone) and they may just knock it apart for you free (they just take their large air impact hammers and drive the studs out). Takes them about 30-seconds or at least that was my experience when I needed the studs out to separate the hub/drum on some '65 Mustang brakes.



jm
 
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