Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Front Brake Rotors

[Dave Remillard]

With 118K miles, the front rotors are now starting to pulse when the rotors get warm from medium to hard braking. Time for getting them turned. I looked in the factory manual for detailed instructions on rotor removal, but I found the instructions to be somewhat vague. It didn't even distinguish between 2 and 4 wheel drive. No doubt for a reason. Just wondering if any special tools are required, and are there any special little tricks to use that can make the job go easier. Thanks in advance.

 

[Dave Remillard]

OOPs!!! I should have known better. I posed a question on here before having my coffee starter for the day. I did a search after the post and found my answers. I would however appreciate any thoughts on if there is any benefit to going with a higher priced peformance style rotor over the most cost competetive ones found at discount auto stores. I still may be a little fuzzy on the special tools thing too. I found in the search some discussion on using a torx driver to remove parts. Is this tool needed for a rotor replace job on a 95 4X4 ??? Thanks

 

[illflem]

No special tools for a '95 except for a 3/8" hex driver for the calipers and copper mallet to pound out the studs unless the axle stub is stuck to the bearing then you need ingenuity.

www.tirerack.com (click brakes in upper rt corner first or you'll get lost) has good prices on standard as well as performance rotors.

See if this works. I perfer to replace them when warped rather than turn.

 

[icarus33]

I just replaced my rotors last week with those Italian Brembo rotors from Tirerack. All went rather easily with the exception of finding the 1 11/16" axle hub socket. Even the tool store with all the cheap overseas tools didn't have it and had to settle on a 43mm impact socket @ $22. Found the 1 11/16" at Sears of all places for $17 later that day.



These items made the job much easier:



1) Air impact wrench with universal and extension. Easily removes the 4 bolts from the back of the rotor at the knuckle which holds the bearing assy. This speeded up the removal considerably and 2 of the bolts even challenged the impact for a while. Not a must have.



2) PB Blaster spray is your friend. Spray the large hub nut as soon as the wheel is off as well as the 4 bolts on the knuckle. Spray the splines of the hub after removing the hub nut as this will need to slide off as the rotor/bearing assy. is pulled. I have an older Toyota Landcruiser FJ-40 and habit has me spraying everything. Excellent stuff, Liquid Wrench pretty good too.



3) I used a 8" 2 jaw puller to get the rotor/bearing assy. off the splined shaft. This made the seperation so easy and allows you to pay attention to not allow the axle to pull out from the axle tube much and damage the internal axle seal. This I feel is an important one. Your truck has even more age than mine and I had a fair amount of rust in this area even being in the desert.



Use some antiseize on the axle splines when reassembling so when you do this again in another 125k miles it will make things a bit easier. I had 1 rotor warped bad at 86k miles. I had 2 rotor cuts in this time due to other issues that contributed to this short life.



ic

 

[Reddog1]

I too am in need of rotors. I have a 2WD. In pricing, I have quotes from $80 to $170 each.



Some sources have both expensive and less expensive rotors. I ask the difference in rotors, and with one exception, got the response was typically, “that one was better than the other. ” Why, they could not say.



A distributor of Raybestus (?) and Raymold said the Raymold ($87) is cast and machined only, whereas the Raybestus ($134) was cast, rough machined heated to relieve stress (increase resistance to warping), then finished machined. The only logical difference offered.



I would appreciate comments on this.





Wayne