Archived Front Brakes Destroyed

[CoreyPerez]

Hey folks,



Well I've got a problem. (duh, I wouldn't be here if I didn't huh?) I noticed about 2 days ago that there was a "dragging" sound coming from one of my calipers. I've been having problems with the rubber bushings sliding out of the calipers, and this has caused a sound just like this before. I didn't have a chance to check the bushings and brakes for a day. The next day the sound was getting so bad (and a "grinding" feeling in the brake peddle) so I decided it was time to park the truck. Well today I get the garage cleaned out and backed the truck in. I take off the front tires and... The driverside inboard brake pad is gone, the backing is grinding on the Rotor. In all honesty I'm not so surprised considering all the towing I did to get my self and the wifes stuff out to Utah from North Carolina and not having my trailer brake setup properly. Well now I have to pull my rotors and have them replaced, I'm also going to go the whole way. Rotors, Calipers, Lines, Pads, Fluid, upgrade to 1ton rear wheel cyl's (27mm bore). My questions are as follows:



What size is that huge castle nut on the front hubs??? And has anybody made the upgrade to the 27mm wheel cyl's? If so, what ones did you use (year, 2wd, gas/diesel... ) What parts/brands would you suggest for my truck: 94 Auto. I don't do a lot of towing, but it needs to be there when I need it.



There is the Utah Dyno Days this weekend and I had planned on getting the ram up there, but now I don't know if I'll have all the parts together before the meeting.



If anybody can help, that would be great. A quick search of the forum didn't get me anywhere.



Thanks!



corey. perez@hill. af. mil



Oo.

 

[azcummins]

Corey-

The correct size on the hub nut (1 5/8?) just slipped my mind. I used a 1 3/4 and it was slightly too big but with an impact wrench I got it off. Just remember to pull the cotter pin on it first.



I just did my front brakes and rotors. I live in Eastern Colorado so I wish I could slip out there and help you! Between you and me, we could have it done in 2 hrs if you had compressed air.



When you put the axle shaft back in the housing, grease them and slide them real easy back into the axle housing. If your front end leaks for a couple of days, don't worry, hook up the trailer and go drive a couple of hundred miles and the heat will seal them back up.



PM me with any ?s you might have, I'll be happy to help.



BTW... check out my gallery "Power Pics" and go to wrenching inside that gallery to see pics of how I did my front brakes.



Good luck.

 

[Cummins Corvette]

Oh, man. I hope your bearing assy comes out easily. I had to destroy mine to get them out to replace my u-joints. :{ That was a miserable day of blood, sweat, tears, and hundreds of whacks with a sledge hammer. I might be able to come and give you a hand if you would like. Give me a call tomorrow. 801 556 8082 I need to get some stuff taken care of tomorrow so I might be calling in sick to work. If I can get that done with some time left over, then I could come and help you out. Let me know and have a good night.

Chris

 

[TRFD]

Just had this same thing happen to me. Front brakes squeaked once or twice after it rained (Wet Brakes?) and then nothing heard. Pulled front wheel off just for good humor, OUTSIDE PAD less than HALF WORN ) so I didn't think a wear type problem. One week later grinding noise from same brake. Pulled wheel and caliper off and INSIDE pad metal to metal. Ruined rotor. Changed both rotors and all pads and found hub bearing had slight wobble, dealer only part , $500 and change.



Mine is an automatic so at present don't have the E-Brake. 3 sets of front brakes at 45K is making me nuts!



Good luck on the replacement of parts as the Dodge dealer didn't have any in stock and had to order the hub.

 

[CoreyPerez]

Thanks for the helps guys.



I went to sears today and bought a socket kit ($199) for the stuff just so I'd have the sockets for the Ram.



As far as needing help, I really hope that I'm good going this alone. I've never really had problems before with the normal hub type, so I hope I won't have much of a problem with this setup.



IF I have a problem (ie. . can't get the truck together before the Dyno days this weekend, I may give you a holler. And if anybody is in Clearfield, please feel free to swing by and check it out. I pulled the pad's off and the D/S inboard is wasted! I'm going with the 100% replacement of everything.



Once again, if anybody has any suggestions about parts and what not please let me know. I'm planning on getting most of the stuff from Checker Autoparts because of the discount (Calipers, Fluid, Lines) The pads and Rotors I may have to get from Autozone.



Thanks again guys,



Corey

 

[GAmes]

Bad timing

Hope this fix goes easy for you. If only there was a problem a few weeks ago, maybe coulda helped out a little.



Gary

 

[azcummins]

Corey-

autozone had my rotors for $44 each. Pads were $18. Why are you replacing the calipers? My rotors where shot and my pad was destroyed, (see my reader's rig gallery), but after the new rotors and pads, everything works great! No break pull, squeaks or shutters.

 

[CoreyPerez]

OOPS!!!!



Well this little project just took a huge leap in the expensive range...



I was beating the snot out of my hubs trying to get them off and them found out about the bolts on the back that are holding them on. (I'm so used to the FAR superior GM style of front hubs) The driver side wasn't destroyed; I found a way to "pry" off the hubs. The drive side went well. After I finished the driver side I took a break for Dinner. When I got back, I applied my new technique to the pass. side. Well... After prying the hub 1/2 way off it dawned on me I had forgot to unbolt the hub assembly... Well after unbolting the hub, it came out pretty easy. The problem was I had already pulled the bearing out of the race. I used a block of wood to "pound" on the hub back on. Well after that it didn't rotate freely. Well that stupid hub costs $249. 00 I ws going to get 2, but with that price, I opted for the one.



Currently the rotors are being replaced, they are still at the store (checker auto parts in Layton) waiting to be true'd. The calipers are being replaced because I figure there isn't any reason to only do a 1/2 job. The truck has always pulled in one direction or another. The brake being wasted on one side and good on the other prompts me to believe one of the calipers is bad. The lines are being replaced because... Well just because. I didn't see any reason not to. The pads, I'm going with "Performance Friction" from AutoZone. I'm upgrading the rear wheel cyl's to the 1-ton set for the same year (1994). I hope that upgrading this entire system (oh, and using the valvoline Synpower dot 3 dot 4 fluid) will last me some time. I'm planning on getting a shop press from harbor freight this Friday. That will be another $200 or so for that, on top of the $200 that I spent on sockets at Sears to do this job (oh, by the way its 1 11/16th" socket for the front hub)



Well, This thing is sure taking a bit longer than I had expected it to take. Plus, this weekend I'm considering going up to the radio towers at Farmington canyon to do a quick look around in the valleys as a simple search for Elizabeth Smart. Not a huge help, but at least doing a little part.



I'm hoping to get this thing put back together so I can make it to the truck get together this weekend...





Thanks,



Corey



Oo.

 

[ralphr]

calipers

When re assembling take some sand paper and make sure that both on the calipers and where they ride is soomth and burr free! some use a little "anti sieze" to lub that area, but others say that will atract dirt and "gum" them up sooner. either why at least start off smooth and clean. That seems to be the major problem on hanging up the calipers and early demise of the pads, over heated rotors, etc. Hope this helps!

 

[Extreme1]

Originally posted by CoreyPerez

Currently the rotors are being replaced, they are still at the store (checker auto parts in Layton) waiting to be true'd.

If they are new, install them as is. Any rotor turning that needs to be done should be done on the truck or you WILL need to have them trued.