FRONT BRAkES doe's anybody know

[RHanson]

96 2500 4x4 170k



I am wondering if anyone has experienced the left side brake wearing pads 3:1 over the right side. A constant pull both down the hiway and stronger when I brake. The dodge dealer told me possible Right side caliper is bad. He thougt perhaps the right side was not fully operating causing the left side to work too much. My regular mechanic suggested possible malfunctioning brake hoses from line to caliper. When he tried to order them from NAPA they were unavailible for either side and on major backorder. I don't want toget into the situation where I have to pay for the service dep't. trial and error. Been there done that before. I will greatly apprecite any help and knowledge on this situation.



P. S Greetings from the 1/2 frozen wisconsin north.



Russ

 

[Blackcloud]

Sounds like a sticking caliper or pins that hold the caliper to the steering knuckle.

 

[Mr. Hemi]

I have the typical pull to the right on my truck and have gotten into the habit of pulling the caliber pins, cleaning and lubing with synthetic grease ( pins and rubbers) every time I change the oil. This has seemed to do the trick because every 3000 to 4000 miles they start pulling again. If you have a chance pull the wheel that seems to be the problem and remove the pins and see if they are gummed up. I usually have to get them out with a brass drift and hammer. Additionally if you have the rotors turned on the truck this seems to help, I believe it is the only way to have true running rotors, it is expensive but fixes Dodge's p-poor brake problems.

 

[Joe G.]

Believe it or not, but the REAR brakes can contribute to this situation. Keep them adjusted to where they should be. You can't depend on the so-called automatic adjusters to work. Probably don't work at all. I adjust my rear brakes every oil change. I also lube the caliper pins at that time. NO brake pull at all. I do NOT recommend turning the rotors on these trucks. There is barely enuff metal now so turning them reduces rotor life and makes them vulnerable to warping. I have 173K on my original never turned rotors. I check the run out every oil change and it's still within specs. If they ever get out of specs I will replace them. I also get very good life from my brake pads and shoes. Stay away from the dealer! They would not know good brakes if they were stuck up their nose.

 

[Mr. Hemi]

I had the msofortune of having to replace a front rotor and have the other side turned off of the truck about two years ago. The problem came in checking the runout, seemed that both had around . 010 runout, even after turning, way out of spec, really beats the front end up when braking. The only way I know of having them run true is to have them turned on the truck. Must be something with the alignment/seating of the rotor on the hub, or the hub is not true to the bearings and bearing seats. Another example of quality machining.

 

[Midnight]

Russ, try bleeding the brakes and see if the pressure is the same on both sides,thus ruling out faulty flex lines.

Mr. Hemi,the best way to machine rotors is to have machined on the vehicle. Not everybody can do it, thats the only problem. It has alot to do with the wheels being torqed down like when the wheel is tightened up on the vehicle.

 

[HLEschenko]

I agree with Joe G. Lube the front as required and adjust the back. The adjusters are not the best.

 

[GAmes]

I would think that if the left side is wearing out faster, it is because the left caliper is sticking. Do you ever check for heat on the hubs after a long drive? Back in the old days the caliper piston was some kind of cheap ceramic and we would have to replace them with after market steel pistons, don't know what it is now.

 

[illflem]

Sometimes part of the inner lining of the rubber brake hose can peel off from bending and form a flap that acts like a check valve (one way). This can cause one brake not to retract fully. Most often the problem is one rear brake out of adjustment though.

 

[Mr. Hemi]

Midnight,

I agree, the only way to have the rotors properly turned to run true is to have them turned on the truck. I too do the lube of the pins and the adjusting of the rears when I change the oil. Kind of makes the wife wonder why oil changes take so long.

Games,

The pistons are steel now. I too have had the plastic pistons seize up on the older single pistons, always rebuilt them with steel pistons, even if it required making my own.