2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission front brakes - replacing rotors

[MAyotte]

I have a '98 3 quarter ton quad cab 4x4. How do you get the front rotors off? The brakes are making noise. The rotors are pitted.

 

[CumminsPower98]

If they have never been taken off it will probably be a real pain. You have to remove the stub shaft nut and the four bolts holding the hub assembly in. The unitized bearing gets rusted to the steering knuckle and usually a heavy duty hub puller is required to get things apart. This can sometimes ruin the beargings so be prepared to replace them if they come apart and are not salvageable. If they have been apart before and anti-seize was used then they will almost fall off. Be sure the axles do not come out while pulling the hub off or you may damage the seals if not guiding them carefully.

 

[Fishin Guide]

If they have never been taken off it will probably be a real pain. You have to remove the stub shaft nut and the four bolts holding the hub assembly in. The unitized bearing gets rusted to the steering knuckle and usually a heavy duty hub puller is required to get things apart. This can sometimes ruin the beargings so be prepared to replace them if they come apart and are not salvageable. If they have been apart before and anti-seize was used then they will almost fall off. Be sure the axles do not come out while pulling the hub off or you may damage the seals if not guiding them carefully.

You have to remove the hub? On my '02, I just remove the 4 hat "keepers" and tap the hub with a plastic hammer. Rotor comes right off. This assumes the caliper has been removed from it's mount.



Dave

 

[CumminsPower98]

I have not worked on an '02 but on a '98 and down the rotor is on the back side of the hub flange so the whole unit must be removed then you have to back all the lug studs out with either a press or brass/copper hammer.

 

[JGK]

If you can hold out a day or two, take the wheel off and squirt some PB Blaster or Kroil down the little pit right on top of the hub assembly behind the rotor. That little pit apparently allows the lube to get into the area between the bearing/hub assy. and knuckle. Also, spray the big castle nut on the end of the shaft. Plus the 4 retaining bolts on the back of the knuckle.



I did that a few days before tearing them down. I think the heat and vibration helps penetration. The hardest part of the job was breaking the big castle nut loose. When I removed the 4 retaining bolts on the back of the hub assy. the whole thing almost fell off on my foot! Both sides!



Take a piece of wire and run it through the U-joint of the axle shaft and around one leg of the part of the axle housing that holds one of the knuckle studs. That way, when you pull the bearing assy. off the shaft, the shaft doesn't come with it and will stay in the axle tube - rust on the splined shaft end will cause that.



Finally, to remove/replace the 8 wheel studs to separate the rotor from the bearing assy. it really helps - almost mandatory - to have a shop press.



-Jay

 

[Fishin Guide]

I have not worked on an '02 but on a '98 and down the rotor is on the back side of the hub flange so the whole unit must be removed then you have to back all the lug studs out with either a press or brass/copper hammer.

Interesting. I learned something new today!



Dave

 

[DBCooper]

The entire hub has to come off and the studs removed (air hammer and soft die). To get the hubs off, take the large nut off, caliper and all that good stuff. Then back the 4 12 point bolts out a little ways. With the front axle on jack stands, get a helper and have them start the truck and move the steering wheel one way or the other while you have a socket and 3" extention on one of the 12 point bolts. The steering knuckle will move the extention to the axle knuckle and will use the power steering to push the bolt. Do this in a pattern until the hub/rotor comes off.

There is a thread on here somewhere that may explain this better than I have. My first time it took about 10 minutes by my self for each rotor. Also, by pulling on the rotor with a puller you stand the chance of messin' up the bearing.

 

[JFaughn]

If the rotors are thick enough theres an other opption , find a brake shop that has the equiptmaent to turn the rotors on the truck or up grade the ft. brakes to removeable rotors , you'ld have to do a search here becouse I haven't done it yet on mine.

 

[MAyotte]

I finally got the rotors I went to napa and bought a universial hub puller. When pullin' the rotor and hub off the right side the front axel popped out. I pounded the wheel studs out with a big hammer and pounded them into the new rotor. Then put the right side back together. Then went to do the left side, this time I held the axel in place with a big pry bar for it would not pop out. The rotor and hub assembly came apart in 2 pieces, then had to go to napa and buy a wheel bearing hub assembly for $245. 00! Then put it back together. Next I noticed the right axle seal on the right side was leaking fluid. So I took the truck to the dealer and had them replace the seal. I did not feel like taking it all apart again. It was just too cold to do it. Thanks for your help and information.

 

[AMink]

I went through the same thing with the axle coming out. I too was concerned about the leak. I checked on here and was advised to let it leak for a while as the seal would probably seal up in a few hundred miles. It did, so I didn't have to get in there and re-seal. I just kept the diff filled until it quit leaking. It did take a while, though. I had both axles out since to replace u-joints and both dripped a little, but I was much more careful sticking the axles back in. :-laf Live and learn!

 

[jkalchik]

Gang, do *NOT* use a hub puller to remove the unit bearing hubs! You're pulling on the inner race, when it's the outer race that's stuck in the knuckle (indirectly of course. ) Good way to ruin a bearing, as you're wedging the rollers/ball bearings.



DBCooper has the right idea. You need to apply pressure to the bolt head to push the hub out. Jeep Dana 30 fronts have the same design. I keep a set of sacrificial bolts for just this purpose. I use a light sledge, instead of using the power steering to work for me, though.

 

[PZech]

I did mine a couple of months ago and got all the pieces and parts through quad 4x4. They're great to work with, have a video and all the pieces and parts needed to do the job and good pricing. I went ahead and replaced my u-joints and seals while I had to whole front end apart.

 

[J Shocik]

I just went through the front rotor replacement procedure with a friend. We used the socket & 3" extension trick, & it worked beautifully. Dodge gives their techs 4 hrs. to do this job. We did it in a little over 2 1/2. Use an air chisel to punch out & punch back in the studs.

 

[JohnnyH]

I did brakes a few weeks ago and couldnt figure out how this socket/extension thing works. I ended up getting both rotors/hubs out without any damage, but it took a while. I used an air chisel on the back side of the hub assembly, where it enters the knuckle.



It would be nice if someone could post a pic of the process of the socket trick. Where are you guys positioning the socket/extension.

 

[DBohl]

I've done my brakes twice, both times I pulled the axeles with the rotor ,this keeps the bearings together. Just be sure to loosen the nut first then resnug before pulling. The second time, I did'nt even have to use the puller, just turned the rotor while hitting it with a rubber dead blow hammer ,came right apart, thanks to never sieze.