2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front Brakes

[cclemons]

I have a 96 2500 ext cab. I just recently changed the pads on the front. I had the rotors turned. I noticed the front left brake was squealling. Today i put some water on the rims to was them off and noticed the left rotor was HOT real hot. Any ideas.

 

[Case500D]

cclemons,



I have two ideas for you. First the rubber brake line might be collapsed on the inside and not letting the pressure back off the caliper. The other is that the caliper is sticking for some reason. Both are an easy replace. Hope this helps.



Jeremy

 

[Joe G.]

It would be a good idea to replace the pins that the calipers ride on. When you do that lube them with the black silicon brake grease that NAPA sells. When you do that put some of the grease inside the holes the pins slide in. Also smooth the places on the mounting bracket that the calipers slide on. Put a little of the black grease on there too. When you put the calipers back on make sure they slide without binding. I don't think it is a good idea to get the rotors turned. That reduces the metal available to radiate heat. Better to replace them with new ones. Napa has a good price on replacment rotors. I make it a part of my service routine to pull the pins out one at a time and lube them. I have 216K miles on my '95 with the original rotors.

 

[keimmmo]

I have heard of brake hoses collapsing inside, but I personally have not found it to be common. On the other hand, I have changed BUNCHES of calipers with the piston sticking! Here in Mexico, it isn't much of a problem. However, when I worked for a dealership up in Illinois years ago, we couldn't go more than a few days without changing or rebuilding a caliper! I'm certain it was the salt they put on the roads that caused the corrosion that stuck the piston.



I noticed our friend with the brake problems lives in Florida. No problems with road salt to melt the snow, but there is plenty of salt in the air and the possibility of sea salt. I would put my money on a piston sticking in the caliper!



Steve

 

[sam peterson]

When this type of a problem shows up after a pad replaement it is usually a piston sticking problem. If the rotor is getting hot it should be turning hard. Jack up the wheel and crack the bleeder. If the wheel doesn't release and freeup the caliper is the problem. Rebuild both calipers and lube things properly as previously said. ---Sam

 

[San Felipe Bob]

Yikes Front brakes

Ok here I go

This is my 1st hand experiance.

been thru my brakes alot!



1st the stock brakes get hot really hot especially with an Auto trans.

The truck takes alot of peddle to stop due to lack of engine braking.

once the brakes get everything good and hot they do a few thing's

1)they cook the caliper bolt grease doesn't matter what kind of grease I tried them all.

(the special clear Caliper grease seems to work best. )



2)this in turn causes the calipers to stick a little.



3)the sticky calipers cause the pads to drag (usually the the inside pad).



4) now that the pads are dragging we are really heating thing's up!:--)



5)now were cookin !



6)this is where the rotors start to look like a Lays potato chip:{



7)at the same time we are cookin everything in the front end.

brake hoses and caliper piston dust boots and seals EVERYTHING!





Solutions



1)keep caliper bolts lubed (every oil change 3000 mi. or more often if you get them wet)



2) I purchased crossdrilled rotors (seems to keep the heat down)



3)Use hi quality pads (EGR brakes) Glenn thanks!

replace the rubber bushing's every time you change pads.

stay away from the Pep Boys lifetime stuff.



4)If you have already cooked your brakes consider replacing the Rotors ,Calipers (inc the caliper bolts) , Brake lines ,Pads , Brakefluid, You should turn the rotors if they are warped . This will reduce the pulsating brake peddle.



5) I'm very happy with the 1 ton rear wheel cyclinders.

My stockers were leaking and it was nearly imposible to tell.

I had to peel back the dust boots to inspect properly.

It was a very easy upgrade inexpensive too!





SFB

 

[SRehberg]

I read the above replies with interest, as I just recently put new pads (Brute Stop by Raybestos) and have squealing from the right front, but it only started after about 1,000mi. I forgot to put the pad lube on the backsides for noise reduction so I attributed it to that. Now I see it is more likely the piston? I flush my fluid on a two year basis, and it comes out clear and looking not new, but pretty good.



Is the squealing (after it heats up) normally caused by the piston?

 

[San Felipe Bob]

doesn't take long to cook a set of pads.

seems like most of my dragging problems were on the right side as well.

check the caliper bolts.

Did you replace the rubber bushing's for the caliper bolts?

Did you lube all the caliper contact points and bolts?

I have not had any luck with Raybestos.

Give EGR brakes a ring.



SFB

 

[SRehberg]

When I did the brakes, I lubed the pins and slides with disc brake grease, but didn't replace the rubber (bushings)? All looked o. k. and operated smoothly it seemed. I jacked the truck up today, gave the wheels up front a spin, and they are free. These pads were put on before I upgraded the rears to the 1 ton cylinders, so now the front gets a little help.

 

[cclemons]

thanks for everybody's in put this will give me somethings to look at. Thanks again. Carl