Archived Front Cv/U-joint replacement!

[Wirenut]

This didn't start as a 911 issue but now it is. I am trying to replace the front CV/U-joint in the 4 wheel drive and I have it tore half way apart and I dont know what to do now to get this drive shaft out to replace the joint. Someone please help.

 

[illflem]

Please be more precise in telling us where halfway is. Have you removed the unit bearing/rotor from the axle yet? That is usually the hard part if it's stuck.

 

[LSMITH]

General tips, put it in 4HI, set the parking brake and spray the bolts with penetrating lube. Impact tools are great for getting stuff apart.

 

[bighammer]

I'm betting you have the caliper and axle nut off and can't get the rotor/hub assembly off. (am I close?)



If you don't have the axle nut off, crack it loose with the truck on the ground and wheel still on. 1 11/16" socket (if I'm remembering right) and long breaker bar.



There are four 12 point socket head bolts on the backside of the steering knuckle that hold the whole mess together. Once those are out, I put a 3 jaw puller on the center flange of the rotor and apply some tension. It is rusted togethter usually, and some use of a rust buster might help. You don't want to use the puller to pull the rotor off thoug because you can split your wheel bearing. (it's not supposed to come appart--PITA to press back together)



In the spot where the caliper was, I was able to pry in a small slot (next to dust shield) with a long screwdriver to help get it appart. Some guys have had luck replacing the bolts in the backside (loose) and wailing on the heads to drive it off.



The rotor sort of hides the whole thing, but it will make more sense when it's off. With it off, you'll have a large hole (a bit larger than your U joint yoke diameter to pull the axle out.



If it's the left side, either jack it high to tilt it above oil level or remove some of the gear oil. When the axle shaft comes out, you will get some in the axle tube. It's hard to clean out, and it will drip for months until it's gone.



Good luck with it. Give me a call if you want (I'm in the travel companion section)



Pete

 

[Wirenut]

Okay, I am now at the part where I have the 3 jaw puller on with tension, beating on those 4 bolts and prying by where the brake caliper was. Do I just have to do this all day? It hasn't even moved yet. I sprayed the rust stuff on there. Any other tricks? Thanks for all the info, it helped so much. Now, back to beating and prying... . and cussing!

 

[illflem]

Most times heat on the axle stub will work. Do use real penetrating oil, it is different and works much better than WD-40 etc. If you have a heavy duty puller most are designed to be whaled on the top of tensioning bolt with a sledge. One good hit then retension. Wear safety glasses! Keep at least one of the four rotor hub bolts loosely in until it breaks lose otherwise the whole mess can come out of the axle tube at once damaging the seal. Once you are ready to remove the axle jack that side of the truck up high, it helps to prevent fluid from leaking past the seal. Otherwise the fluid will take a long time to finally quit dripping, you'll think you have a leak. Use anti-seize on the axle stub on reassembly so this doesn't happen again.

 

[Wirenut]

Thanks for the tips. I didn't think of using heat, I'll try that. And I have been soaking it down with the good stuff (kano kroil)

 

[Wirenut]

Got it! Thanks everyone for the tips. The secret for me was a hammer and chisel by the brake caliper, then pounding on the bolts in the back... . worked great. Thanks! Now to go use a press on the u-joint.