Front differntial cover removel

[Iguide]

I was changing the diff fluid & got the rear done no problem. Then I went to the front. No matter how I tried to get tools on the top bolts I could not get at them. The only thing I could see was to remove the sway ber that is in front of the top. That looks like a fair piece of work. Does any one have any suggestions?



Thanks.

 

[opjohnny]

You lift the truck a little by the frame to move the bar out of your way.

 

[bulabula]

I just loosen them all except the top two that are difficult to get at and let the oil drain out of the diff without actually removing the cover.



Yeah, I don't see the gears, but I do sleep better knowing there's fresh oil in there.

 

[Cattletrkr]

You lift the truck a little by the frame to move the bar out of your way.

Yeah, what he said. Done it twice.

 

[Iguide]

Lift frame???? Ok. Dumb question, How do you lift the frame? I have ramps I was using. could a big jack lift the frame?

Thank you for the help

 

[livetodrive]

I did basically what opjohnny described, but had the front of the truck up on jack stands and jacked the axle with my floor jack to change the relative positions of the bolts and sway bar. Also used a flex adapter for the ratchet drive on some bolts.



For next time, I bought flex sockets from Sears.

Sears item #00943207000 is the 16mm (check the size, I recall 16mm is the one).

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00943207000



Don't over-torque the bolts when reinstalling -- one of mine sheared off at or below the specified torque. It was one of the bottom ones, so the threads were well-lubricated!

 

[Cattletrkr]

I don't use ramps. They tip the axle back and make it harder to get all the oil out. Put a jack and a block or two under the frame somewhere, I think I go under the tow hooks, they're plenty tough. A floor jack and a 5in. block does it for me. Kinda risky if you don't have the right equipment so be careful. Those steering arms could do some serious damage to YOUR arms if they caught ya.

 

[Tim]

Jack it up by the axles and put jackstands under the frame, then let the jack down.

 

[rbattelle]

I have to use a combination wrench to get one of the top bolts of the front diff off.



I think I do torque them to factory spec... maybe from now on I'll reduce that a bit.



-Ryan

 

[Iguide]

Another dumb question. What is a combination wrench? Is that one that is articulated?

Thanks

 

[rbattelle]

A combination wrench has a box-end at one end and an open end at the other.



Here's a picture of one.



-Ryan

 

[Kirwin]

Replace the bolts

I replaced the bolts with stainless steel metric allen head capscrews and washers. Then you can use an allen wrench and they look better IMHO than the stock ones. Got the idea from installing my Mag-Hytec rear cover. Ken Irwin

 

[nickleinonen]

when i finally got around to doing my diff's, that front one was a stubborn sob to get out... i did get it out with the truck sitting on the ground, with a combonation of a u-joint adapter and then just using my ring wrenches... took it right out... gears looked great [contact pattern was spot on perfect front & rear]. . really wished i had a tig at home, as i would have welded bungs in the covers for drain plugs...

 

[shark]

I just used my 3/8 driver and a 13mm socket with no extension. It came off ok. I tightened them the same way. With the short driver I felt good about the limited torque.

 

[JThiessen]

I replaced the bolts with stainless steel metric allen head capscrews and washers. Then you can use an allen wrench and they look better IMHO than the stock ones. Got the idea from installing my Mag-Hytec rear cover. Ken Irwin

I havent done mine yet, so without knowing what the torque spec on these bolts should be, you should use caution when using Stainless bolts. Stainless is a soft material due to the nickel content, and there are very few manufactures who make a higher grade stainless bolt. I suspect that for a pan cover they will be fine.

 

[Kirwin]

Good point

JTheissen, Mag-Hytec uses stainless steel allen head capscrews for their cover so I think it will be OK. Besides there are many screws holding the cover so if one were to somehow fail and the head pop off I don't think the fluid would come spraying out. Might develop a slow leak at the gasket joint, but I don't think that the fluid loss would end up destroying the front differential unless you never checked the oil level. I did not torque them but used my "mechanic feel" to tighten them. So far no leaks and no bolt heads have snapped off. Ken Irwin



P. S. You can get different grades of stainlesss steel hardware from a bolt supplier company, just not at Lowes or Home Depot.