front drive shaft grease, free play front diff

[CMB]

Hi All,

A couple of things, the front drive shaft grease fitting. WOW- Can some one post a picture of the type of needle used to grease the front drive shaft? At this point I bent a 4" needle (not the sharp type) slightly but still don't think I'm reaching the fitting properly. Even with the one handed type grease gun this seams to be a 2 person job. The sticker under the hood says lube with every oil change. Is this that critical? Will I see grease escape from somewhere when it's applied properly?

Second, while turning the front drive side wheel trying to locate the grease fitting it seams like I have a lot of free play in the front diff. In other words I can turn the tire almost 15-20 degrees before the drive shaft moves. Is that normal? I plan to pull the front diff cover off to check the wear pattern. What is the proper lash on the front end?

It's starting to get chili, time for fire wood. I'd like to address this before it gets to much colder. Thanks

 

[jhenderson]

It's been discussed here a 1000 times. Use the search function.

 

[CMB]

Geeezzz- I figured. Front diff play as well.

Thanks Buddy

 

[Ram4Sam]

Hi All,

A couple of things, the front drive shaft grease fitting. WOW- Can some one post a picture of the type of needle used to grease the front drive shaft? At this point I bent a 4" needle (not the sharp type) slightly but still don't think I'm reaching the fitting properly. Even with the one handed type grease gun this seams to be a 2 person job. The sticker under the hood says lube with every oil change. Is this that critical? Will I see grease escape from somewhere when it's applied properly?

Second, while turning the front drive side wheel trying to locate the grease fitting it seams like I have a lot of free play in the front diff. In other words I can turn the tire almost 15-20 degrees before the drive shaft moves. Is that normal? I plan to pull the front diff cover off to check the wear pattern. What is the proper lash on the front end?

It's starting to get chili, time for fire wood. I'd like to address this before it gets to much colder. Thanks

Assuming the shafts are the same over the years......I just did mine for the first time, about two years, 13,000 miles. There is a little spit/overflow hole in the center of the ujoint/flange? Just a couple of pumps and it was spitting out on mine so I'm guessing the ujoint wasn't that dry. Every oil change seems a bit excessive after what I saw..... Can't help with the free play issue.........
Sam

 

[CMB]

Thanks Sam,

I know this has been discussed many times. Every time I struggle with trying to grease this thing I wonder if anyone has come up with an easier way. I guess some things just are what they are...

Thanks for the feed back.

I haven't tried the sharp type needle (napa # 700-1193). I have used the larger kinda blunt needle (napa #715-1213) with a little bend. Knowing how much resistance the grease gun has while pumping into open air, when I feel resistance and see very little grease escaping around the needle it must be going some place. I've yet to see it come from the over flow hole but this will be the next thing I check.

Thanks Again

 

[Newsa]

Assuming the shafts are the same over the years......I just did mine for the first time, about two years, 13,000 miles. There is a little spit/overflow hole in the center of the ujoint/flange? Just a couple of pumps and it was spitting out on mine so I'm guessing the ujoint wasn't that dry. Every oil change seems a bit excessive after what I saw..... Can't help with the free play issue.........
Sam

My experience is a bit different. I put about 15-20 pumps in and I see it come out the collar about an inch and a half to the rear of the truck. I use green marine (grade) grease which is easy to see (with a flashlight) the fresh grease from the old grease. I imagine the red stuff is easy to see as well.

 

[Newsa]

I can grease it with 2 hands with this

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/322792019498

Otherwise it takes 3 hands

 

[gsbrockman]

Hi All,

A couple of things, the front drive shaft grease fitting. WOW- Can some one post a picture of the type of needle used to grease the front drive shaft? At this point I bent a 4" needle (not the sharp type) slightly but still don't think I'm reaching the fitting properly. Even with the one handed type grease gun this seams to be a 2 person job. The sticker under the hood says lube with every oil change. Is this that critical? Will I see grease escape from somewhere when it's applied properly?

Second, while turning the front drive side wheel trying to locate the grease fitting it seams like I have a lot of free play in the front diff. In other words I can turn the tire almost 15-20 degrees before the drive shaft moves. Is that normal? I plan to pull the front diff cover off to check the wear pattern. What is the proper lash on the front end?

It's starting to get chili, time for fire wood. I'd like to address this before it gets to much colder. Thanks

Based on the model year of your truck, it is indeed critical.

Beginning with the 2013 3500s and the 2014 2500s, RAM went back to a CAD (Central Axle Disconnect). In a nutshell......on those trucks, the front driveshaft DOES NOT TURN in 2wd. Your 2012 truck, however, does turn in 2wd.

I have witnessed firsthand what the damage can be when that joint fails. One truck I knew of had a wiring harness, transfer case, and fuel lines that were beat to death when that joint came apart.

 

[Jared Herzog]

If you really can not get grease in there maybe you should pull the shaft as a last resort. At least that way you can see exactly where to lube, which fitting works best, and get a feel for how much it takes. It might make the next time easier to do it while on the truck. I agree with Greg. The lube there is critical. I saw one at my dealership that took out the transfer case and put a hole in the floor of the truck when it went.
I have a 15 and i used the Lincoln tip others here have had success with. Sorry but i do not have the part number currently. It took grease easily once the fitting was found. I did have to remove the transfer case skid plate to get the right angle though. Not sure how a pre 13 is exactly though.

 

[Ram4Sam]

Thanks Sam,

I know this has been discussed many times. Every time I struggle with trying to grease this thing I wonder if anyone has come up with an easier way. I guess some things just are what they are...

Thanks for the feed back.

I haven't tried the sharp type needle (napa # 700-1193). I have used the larger kinda blunt needle (napa #715-1213) with a little bend. Knowing how much resistance the grease gun has while pumping into open air, when I feel resistance and see very little grease escaping around the needle it must be going some place. I've yet to see it come from the over flow hole but this will be the next thing I check.

Thanks Again

The sharp needles are for greasing sealed ball joints/tie rod ends by poking a hole in the boot, sounds like you have the right one.

Sam

 

[Newsa]

My 2013 has no play (inperceptible, if any) in the front drive shaft, differential. I would look at that!

 

[Newsa]

What makes my 2013 so difficult (to grease the front drive shaft) is the cross member right below it.

 

[TCollier]

The #715-1213 looks like the one I use. Mine took about a pump and a half with a pistol grip grease gun before I some come out. That’s with 25k miles. I doubt the dealership was doing it with the first 4 free oil changes even though they say they did all required checks and maintenance.

The cross member really makes it a tight fit to line it up. Don’t remember the ‘06 being like that.

 

[Newsa]

Based on the model year of your truck, it is indeed critical.

Beginning with the 2013 3500s and the 2014 2500s, RAM went back to a CAD (Central Axle Disconnect). In a nutshell......on those trucks, the front driveshaft DOES NOT TURN in 2wd. Your 2012 truck, however, does turn in 2wd.

I have witnessed firsthand what the damage can be when that joint fails. One truck I knew of had a wiring harness, transfer case, and fuel lines that were beat to death when that joint came apart.

Yeah, a swinging and bouncing (front) driveshaft could do significant damage as well as cause a serious accident. I stick with a 10,000 to 15,000 mile (intetval) schedule on this . You could increase the maintenance interval if you have the CAD. (2014+ 2500 or 2013+ 3500)

Some have reported doing it at 60,000+ mile intervals.. But you might not get much of a vibration or noise warning before failure. You are one 9f the lucky ones if you get a warning and are not far from a shop.

Lubing it is a pain in the neck though for sure.

 

[jhenderson]

My 2013 has no play (inperceptible, if any) in the front drive shaft, differential. I would look at that!

If you do what the OP you'll have as much play as he does. Ad up all the play between stub axle and hub, axle and side gear, side gears between themselves, and then ring to pinion and 20 degrees is nothing to be concerned about.

 

[Jared Herzog]

If you do what the OP you'll have as much play as he does. Ad up all the play between stub axle and hub, axle and side gear, side gears between themselves, and then ring to pinion and 20 degrees is nothing to be concerned about.

I agree. On my 05 i could grab it and rotate it either direction a bit. Did the same thing from new as i would check things out any time i was under the truck. However, this play i felt by rotating the shaft did not transfer to any clunky behavior when using four wheel drive or engaging the system.
And to my amazement the shaft on my current 15 truck spins all the way around in park. Kidding.

 

[B.G. Smith]

When you turn one wheel with the other one on the ground you are seeing/feeling the slack in the splines from both axles, the slack in the spider gears and the backlash between the ring and pinion. Unless you have lots of mile, have had water in the differential or are hearing some noise from it I doubt that you have a problem. bg

 

[Dieselnerd]

And to my amazement the shaft on my current 15 truck spins all the way around in park. Kidding.

My front driveshaft spins in park too and I'm not kidding. That's how it works...

You don't have to jack up one wheel to turn the front driveshaft to allow you to see the grease dimple. It free wheels unless you are in 4 wheel drive.

 

[Jared Herzog]

My front driveshaft spins in park too and I'm not kidding. That's how it works...

You don't have to jack up one wheel to turn the front driveshaft to allow you to see the grease dimple. It free wheels unless you are in 4 wheel drive.

I know it is how it works. But, the way i typed out my thoughts was confusing. It did get me thinking. I am going to put mine in four wheel drive and leave the truck running and go under there and check play and or spin. I know it will not spin engaged at this point.
I am also wondering if it stays locked in four wheel drive if I shut the truck off. I need to know this as i have had to park with the parking brake on and four wheel drive engaged to hold heavy trailers on gravel roads with slopes. One time i did not do this and i jumped out with only the rear axle locked and the truck instantly started sliding down hill before i could also chalk it. I just need to know it does not default with the cad to unlocked with the key off.

 

[Thedogsbollocks]

It's been discussed here a 1000 times. Use the search function.

You miserable Git...I'll answer. Yes there is that play I thought the same - it's normal.