Front Drive Shaft

[Matt S]

I'm looking for some technical advice. I need to rebuild the front drive shaft. However, I can't get the old universals out of the CV joint at the transfer case connection. I've only heard of others getting theirs rebuilt and no one actually doing it themselves. Does anyone know how to get them out? I don't have the special tool kit and I couldn't seem to locate one on the web. It appears that the caps are held in by something. I thought it was some sort of pin but after breaking 3 punches, I figured that I would stop and look for some knowledge that has so far eluded the tech manual and me.



Thanks.

 

[RDBuck]

Universal

The universal bearing caps are held in by circlips on the inside of the yokes. Clean the joint and inspect closely and you will see them. Tap with a flat blade screwdriver against one of the open ends of the circlip and it should slide back out of the grouve. I use a socket that is slightly larger than the diameter of the bearing cap,set the yoke with the bearing cap centered inside the socket and use a large punch to tap on the center of the cross joint to drive the bearing cap out. Once you get one out repeat the process using the cross joint to push each cap out. If you have a manual follow the sequence of which cap to take out first,otherwise just take your best guess. I'm sure others have a better method but this works for me.

 

[RDBuck]

Universal

Sorry but I only got you half way. I use a socket the same size or slightly smaller than the bearing caps when I assemble the new joint. If you have a vise large enough to span the yokes then your job is a little easier. Clean everything really well. Study the situation. Make sure the needle bearings are covered with a light coat of grease to help hold them in place. Put the cross joint into the yoke then start one of the caps making sure it is square to the hole. Try to keep the cross joint bearing surface into the needle bearing cap while you are pressing the cap in so that the needles do not fall. It is possible to have one of the needles fall flat across the inside of the cap and still get the cap on although you will know something is wrong because the circlip will not fit correctly. All of the circlips should fit into their grooves and the joint should flex freely. If it seems to bind slightly rap the yoke with a hammer on the sides next to the bearing caps and this will should free it up-so long as none of the needles got crossed-up. Good luck!

 

[JFitzgerald]

I rebuilt my CV last winter. RDBuck has given you some good tips. Another tool I add to the list is a 3 lb. hammer. This helps "motivate" the caps if they're rusted to the yoke. I wouldn't use it for re-assembly though, because if any needles fall into the bottom of the cap, you will likely crush/break them when you try to beat the cap into place so the inner clips will go in. Yes, I learned the hard way a long time ago.

 

[Matt S]

Well, mine must be the old pre-clip design. Another difference in the first gens. Mine are held in place by melted plastic. They are VERY difficult to pound out. I've gotten 2 end caps off but I have 6 more to go. I think the replacements are clips. I can't believe someone came up with this design. I'll keep you posted.



Thanks.

 

[paccool]

After you get them back together, take a hammer and lightly tap the joint outward in all directions to make sure the caps are all seated against the keeper rings. This is something I learned from the drive line shop that rebuilt my main 2 piece shaft. I'm assuming it can be done to the front shaft as well.



Stan

 

[Paul Herioux]

Plastic retainers

The melted plastic retainers are the norm for anything built after about 1985. Use a propane or acetylene torch and heat it till the plastic starts coming out of the holes like snakes rising from the basket. Be careful not to overheat as the grease in the caps can ignite and cause the cap seals to blow slinging burning grease in all directions. 2nd and 3rd degree burns are no fun:{ . The replacement u-joints will come with internal style c-clips. Don't forget the centering ball and socket. The repair package is is less than $30 from Napa. If either of the joints was really sloppy the collets in the ball socket are probably cracked or chipped. If you don't replace them the driveshaft will vibrate and take out another set of joints. Easiest way I have found to assemble these driveshafts is to put them in a press to compress the driveshaft lengthwise to line up the crosses with the bores for the caps. If you don't have a press a second set of hands is normally required.

Good luck,

Paul

 

[Matt S]

Finally!

I got the driveshaft back in yesterday. I ended up messing up the last cap and broke 4 of the needle bearings. So I needed an extra u-joint. The plastic in the caps made the job much more difficult but some heat made it possible. The new joints are greaseable where the old ones were not. The front joint on the transfer case was so dry it had ground the bearings flat. The may have been the source of the vibrations. Now it is very smooth in 4-wheel drive. I can't wait to test it out!

Thanks for all the advice.



Matt