Front Driveline Failure 2012 Ram 3500

[Liecha]

On August 23, 2014 I experienced a failure in my driveline just outside of Spokane WA in my 2012 Ram 3500 SRW. Heard two pops (just like tires blowing) a hop in the front end and then sparks like crazy and some bouncing until I stopped. Had been driving at the speed limit since Helena MT after dropping my daughter off at college. About 2:30 am the above happened just after I passed some big rigs so I was luckily covering the brakes and managed to spot it in about (seemed to me) a delineator and a half length (at least good brakes). Have just over 28k on it. I was able to pull off the road and after I jumped out, put out a small fire along the road about 150 yards behind the truck (started by a red hot bearing race). Then I looked under the truck and the front U-joint and about 8 inches or so of the driveline was still cherry red.
Next morning, found two parts (bearing race and a ring) and checked out the underside for damage. Was very lucky, Front of driveline and bearing parts were toast, knicked or took out a piece of the transmission housing at the end of a mounting bolt about the size of a little finger nail, and later found out from the mechanic knicked a transmission line (no leaks), made a tear in the front differential housing.
Called a buddy and we trailered it back to the local dealer (120 mi away) where I purchased it new in Jan 2013. The dealer expects it to be done on Saturday (9/12) due to backorder on the housing.
So far I am satisfied with the service department at the dealer (they got things going as soon as I brought the truck in). But the Sales department leaves a lot to be desired. When I purchased the Truck the sales person I bought it through took care of me real well. Promised if I had anything like this to contact him and he would shepherd me through the process (rental, etc). Had a major electrical failure a week after I purchased the truck and he took care of me for the tree weeks the truck was down that time. When I called the sales department this time (sales and service apparently are two different entities at my local dealership in the Tri-Cities, service NEVER provides rentals) they said they never had had an employee by the name of the person who sold me the truck. Then when I explained what I was looking for, I was told to contact the service department. Kicker, the next day after that conversation someone from the corporate office of the dealership (telemarketer) called to try to get me to go into the dealership to purchase another vehicle. Did tell him I had not finished paying off this one and what I was going through and he still wanted to ask me about buying from them again! Had to finally hung up on him. My wife started laughing after she handed me the phone (I think she set me up).

I will post pictures when I figure out how and post when I get the the truck back and have a list of what was done (replaced).

Anyone have any similar experiences? I purchased this Ram Cummins to get a million miles out of it as my wife repeatedly says this is my one and only truck (ever). I waited over 20 years to get this one, my kid survived a brain cancer, miracles do happen!

I do still like my truck. These rainy days just suck.

~Mike

 

[Bug Out]

I have been on this board since 1998 and have NEVER ever heard of this happening to anyone, DANA axles or AAM's with the exception possibly of the hot rodder groups that pull sleds or something. I'd love to know what the dealer has to say may have caused this, besides a oil leak that allowed the front axle to overheat and explode...

 

[Deleted member 995608]

In my neck of the woods, a few 3rd gen's have suffered front drive line grenades that also took out the t-case. It's the lack of decent grease zerks that cause this. This is an area where Chrysler needs to improve on.

 

[rscurtis]

If you're going to keep the truck, put a free-spin kit on it.

 

[Liecha]

Not sure what a free-spin kit is. The driveline is only supposed to have power or move when 4wd is engaged.

~Mike

 

[Hog Wrench]

He's talking about a free-spin hub kit, from companies like Dynatrac, SpynTec, or Yukon. The kit eliminates the sealed unit bearings that come stock on these trucks, that are very susceptible to failure like you experienced. I've had two failures so far, first the left, then the right, in the past year. I just finished installing a SpynTec hub kit on my 2010, and I'm happy with it. The hub kits let you lock or unlock the front driveline, so you can gain an extra 1 or 2 mpg without all that rotating mass in the front driveline turning full- time. I'm sure not many people have heard of it happening. But it's getting pretty common now. To the point there is enough business for three or more aftermarket hub kit companies to have a lot of sales. There is no way around it. No way to maintain them, or prevent it. Sooner or later, you WILL have a unit bearing hub failure. And it may take out other parts as well, like the U-joint or stub axle, brake caliper, brake line, and plastic ABS sensor......

 

[EDankievitch]

Ok... So what failed?

 

[Liecha]

From the best I can determine and what the mechanic initially told me after having looked at it, he called it the "Carrier Bearing." The end of the Driveline that goes into the Front Differential just melted off. I guess there are two bearings the driveline rides on, one with-in the other and the inner (I think) he said most likely failed first due to lack of lubrication.

I have been and did a visual check of the fluid levels before I started back from Helena MT (no change, level surface). I installed at about 20K on the Front and 25K on the rear AFE Diff covers with the sight glasses so I could keep an eye on the color and level of the diff fluids.

After the incident there was diff fluid all over the underside of the truck.

Is there a possibility I just had a defective bearing or race?

When I changed out the diff fluids, there was very little to no indication of shavings or other wear. I used Valvoline full synthetic fluid of the weight that was in it as the dealer did not have enough Mopar stuff on hand to do the job. From what I could find, Valvoline I think makes the Mopar stuff, so I was most comfortable using it.

I am trying not to add anything that will or would interfere with the warranty. After I get 100k on it I plan on adding some aftermarket stuff as I get around to it (nothing dealing with emissions though).

~Mike

 

[Liecha]

What are you driving?

 

[EDankievitch]

Wow... That is scary. Well hope that they get you back up and running soon. Keep us posted as to how you make out.

 

[Liecha]

What are you driving?

2012 Ram 3500 Heavy Duty Four wheel Drive Single Rear wheels Larime.

 

[Liecha]

Update. Received a call from the service department yesterday. All the parts have finally arrived, but the kicker is that the tool needed to install the parts is broken. So it looks like maybe another week plus, unless they can find another dealer with the tool.

Let them know I really need a truck this week as I am responsible for the setup and takedown of our area's third largest event and need it for hauling and other work (hard to tow or transport with my bike). Asked if I had purchased the vehicle through their dealership and who the salesperson was. Let them know it was a salesperson, Travis, who I was told no longer worked for them. The service guy let me know Travis was again working for them. He was going to talk to Travis about what they can do.

~Mike

 

[sag2]

I'm still not clear on what the failure was. You say the driveline failed but it sounds more like a pinion bearing failure. Do you have any part numbers for the parts being replaced?

 

[Liecha]

I have asked for the parts, but I do not expect to see them until I get the truck back. I am not sure what the failure was either.

That is why I want the parts back so I can try to figure it out.

I am planning on calling the dealer tomorrow to get an update on the status of my truck.

I do not think I am going to be dropping another 60K their way anytime in this lifetime again.

~Mike.

 

[DonFitzwater]

Typical loons at the dealership. No different where I live.

You won't get any parts back unless you are paying for them. They should give you an invoice with part numbers though. Please post when finished.

 

[seafish]

If they are being replaced under warranty, then the dealership will keep the parts for Chrysler/Fiat to inspect.

That being said, you SHOULD insist on inspecting them yourself and getting some sort of actual explanation as to what initially failed to cause the carnage.

The invoice for replacement parts will tell you what was replaced, but not necessarily tell you what part CAUSED the failure.

 

[Liecha]

Typical loons at the dealership. No different where I live.

You won't get any parts back unless you are paying for them. They should give you an invoice with part numbers though. Please post when finished.

I figure when I get it back I will post what the work order states they did and some pictures.

~Mike