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Front driveshaft double cardan joint

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Tie Rod Recall L16

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I recently discovered that there is a good amount of play in one of the yokes in the double cardan joint on my front driveshaft. I am looking for any advice on repairing it as cost effectively as possible. Can it be rebuilt or should I buy a whole new shaft? Looks like new shafts are a bit pricey($300-$500 range). Was hoping to not have to spend that much. Who has them for the best price?
 
Trust me get the front shaft out of your truck NOW! I mean NOW! I had a vibration could not find it. The front shaft seemed ok used a infered temp gun one joint was a little warmer. Now rolling down the freeway at 65mph trailer in tow. Seemed like a vibration from the road so changed lanes nope its the truck tried to get over very quick BAM parts all over the freeway driveshaft exit stage left. Here's a partial list driveshaft,(Duh) tranfercase,transmission overdrive,rear driveshaft,fuel lines,brake lines,wiring,transfercase shift motor the list goes on 6k+ not counting hotel/tow ect... . pull it out till you can fix it. This was a week ago that pic is the guts of the transfercase sitting on the crossmember.
 
About a year and a half ago, I started getting some noise out of my front drive line. I replaced all of the u-joints with Precision greaseable u-joints and replaced the ball socket in the double cardan. The culprit turned out to be the ball socket. Cost to me was $250 for a local shop to do the work + the parts purchased from Rock Auto. It's been running great ever since.
 
I just rebuilt mine and it only cost 70 bucks ,I did all new joints greasable and new ball and socket from advance. It was a pain in the butt definitely cheaper than a new shaft.
 
Post # 5 is another case for a free-spin kit. That repair could have bought three Dynatrak set ups.



Amen brother... That's why I don't argue with guys on the site that the ONLY reason for the free-spin hubs is increased fuel mileage. They complain that it takes too long to recuperate your investment.
 
Thanks for all the info. I did remove the shaft immediately after I saw what was going on. I had heard of other stories of that joint breaking and doing a lot of damage, though none quite as bad an in post #5. That one might take the cake for most expensive. I will order new parts with instructions and try my luck at doing it myself. Probably gonna drive it for a while with the shaft off and see if I get any better fuel economy.
 
If you're not planning on free spins soon,Bob4x4's suggestion of Tom Wood's upgraded driveshaft sounds cost effective. Might be the last one you have to replace for a long while.
 
You won't see any FE benefit from removing the front DS, as the ring and pinion are still turning. You probably won't be able to measure the FE difference just by not running the transfer case.
 
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