Front Driveshaft U-joints

[jdross440]

1st Question: How do you get the front u-joint out. It has no locking rings and appears to have pins in the yokes?
2nd Question: How do you know if the centering ball needs replaced at the CV joint near transfer case? I am replacing loose ujoints and don't want to put it back together if the centering ball is bad.

 

[cerberusiam]

The joints are set with a plastic filler, you have to melt the plastic out to get the joint out. If you are not careful pressing the joint out after heating it will bend the ears and you have junk.

The centering ball is harder to diagnose, you have to work the CV and see if it is loose and sloppy. If you have any questions about it being good, get another drive shaft and use that one for a core.

 

[seafish]

1st Question: How do you get the front u-joint out. It has no locking rings and appears to have pins in the yokes?
2nd Question: How do you know if the centering ball needs replaced at the CV joint near transfer case? I am replacing loose ujoints and don't want to put it back together if the centering ball is bad.

Cerbusiam is correct…the "pins" that you see are plastic resin that has been melted around the cap…a a regular propane torch will melt it out.

Also, if using a press (hydraulic OR C press) to push the caps out, cut a piece of 1/4 plate or rod that is the width of the inside of the flange ears, then use it to keep the ears from bending in while you press the joint/caps out…this will prevent the ears from bending in and ruining the flange…DON'T ask me how I learned this process…LOL…(OK I figured it out after ruining the first flange which I dodn't even realize I had runnier until trying to install the new cir clips in the new joint and they wouldn't go in)…thankfully I was able to bend the ears back out again, but it was ALOT of work and time to get it just right…much better to keep it from bending in the first place!!!

 

[BDaugherty]

If you aren't comfortable or don't have the tools, don't be shy to let a local driveline shop rebuild it for you. You can also buy a complete reman front driveshaft assembly. Rockauto lists them and I'm thinking quad4x4 may also sell a new or rebuilt one.
I always tested front driveshaft cv's by holding the shaft level with the cv end facing away from you then pushing the cv end up and see if the ball and socket is tight enough to hold the cv in the up position on e you let go.

 

[seafish]

I'm a little wary of the reman front driveshafts as recently I have read two threads where the cardan joint has let go while the truck was being driven. In short, it wash;t pretty. In one case, the shaft came from Autozone and IIRC Autozone actually paid for the extensive damage that was caused by the driveshaft failing at speed. That being said, I would think and hope that the ones quad 4x4 are selling are NIB and worth the money.

 

[BDaugherty]

I just checked quad4x4. They have several options, all of which appear to be brand new quality parts...also not real cheap. My rear shaft had to be gone through around 245k, but my front shaft is still doing fine at 265k...last time it was out, you could feel the wear, but everything was still tight and it doesn't shake or make noise.

 

[jdross440]

I replaced all 3 u-joints Saturday. Took about 2 hours after getting shaft out. I found a long T40 3/8 drive at Oreilly's to fit the front bolts that would clear the u-joint and allow a ratchet to break them loose. The centering ball looked new and had plenty of grease in it (NAPA has them if needed). One of the CV joint u-joints was totally dry and the needle bearings on 2 crosses were completely ground away. I replaced them all with MOOG super strength greaseable joints. (232A for CV and 235 front). The grease fittings are in the end caps and are similar to the one for the ball (takes a needle to grease them). I used sockets and big hammer to drive them out and put new in.
The truck only has 146K miles and 4WD has seldom been used.