2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front End Help!

[JFlagg]

My 02 2500 is having axle problems. Last month I had the pass. side axle shaft Ujoint freeze up, no big deal, got a new one and pulled the hub assembly and shaft and replaced it. Problem solved, till Tuesday, I made a left turn out of work and the driverside wheel bound up and actually skidded/chirped around the corner like I had a locker! Not a brilliant driveline guy, but I thought that maybe the OTHER Ujoint froze up(similar problem) so I got out my spare Ujoint and picked up a hub assembly just incase(WOW, $250) replaced both of them(the bearing had some play in them) Took a test drive, first corner still the same problem, inside tire chirps/binds, regardless of which direction I turn. Front end also hops around like its in four wheel drive, though alot more pronounced. When I checked the gears last time visually inspected everything in the front diff. and nothing caught my eye, even added new fluid of course. Anyone with more axle experience than me have an idea? This seems to be alot more than a simple frozen Ujoint cap like last month. I need help quick, this is my daily driver and I don't have a backup! Did I possibly install something wrong? Added a squirt or three to each Ujoint and they moved effortlessly prior to the install, I'm at a loss guys. HELP!

 

[JFaughn]

Sounds like its stuck in 4x4 .

 

[JFlagg]

Thats kinda what I thought, but I disconnected the driveshaft(which spun freely while in gear and 2wd) and started to go for another test drive, first corner, popping/ bouncing and binding still. Its like the ring and pinion are binding or something, or like it has a locker in it, yet its an open diff.



I was just thinking, what are the possibilities that I got a bad U-joint? Think they could have worked smoothly out of the truck and something been off after the install to cause them to bind? I'm out of options, might as well take everything back apart and inspect my work, maybe something is installed wrong... . I doubt it, but it beats banging my head on the wall.

 

[JFaughn]

I do not remember how the ft drive works on that yr , on mine the actuator is on the axial , I thought that if your was alike , that could stick in the on / lock pos.
Get the ft end in the air , jack stands , spin the wheels by hand to try to locate the locking / banging , let your finger drag on each axial as you spin wheel .

 

[JFlagg]

I don't have the vacuum actuated four wheel on my truck, but I did just what you suggested. Truck works fine on jackstands. Rolled the tires while straight and at full lock in both directions, and it was just fine. When I put it back on the ground, it binds up again, so basically just when there is weight on the front end. I've come to the conclusion, with some friends advice too, that its the spidergears. And possibly a carrier bearing letting the axleshaft move just enough to keep the splines from engaging smoothly. Trailering it to the shop in the morning, after the truckpull tonight though:-laf



Though, not with this truck.....

 

[JFaughn]

Let us know what they come up with .

 

[JFlagg]

I'm going to try and tackle it myself, at leat at first. The shop that will do the work for me if I can't won't be able to get to it till Mon. So that gives me Sat. and Sun. to mess it more;-laf Anyone have any experience with these? I was told, by 2 very experienced sources, that the ring and pinion are most likely just fine and that the spidergears can be replaced faily easily. No shimming and need to set backlashes and such. Anyone done just a spidergear replacement before? Any advice would be great.

 

[JFaughn]

Its been a while & the old memory is not ???
But pull the diff. cover look closely for metal shavings , then not sure if they put some sort of locking clutch in the ft. , probably not .
It is perty easy , if the pin that holds it together comes out easy , about 5/16 pin , once its out the cross shaft will slide out then the spider gears with a little turning of the axials / diff. , if you've done much mechanicing , you should be able to figure out the put back together , its just getting the spiders to be straight across from each other when you rotate the gears back in while rotating the diff. , It may take a couple tries to get right , but not a big deal .
Look closely at all parts for heavy scratch , dent , chip .

 

[JFlagg]

I took the cover off and inspected everything very thoroughly, no scratches, heavywear, metal filings or loose parts. Seems like everything is just fine, its going to a friends shop this afternoon to let some professionals figure it out. I did get the new control arm bushings in though. The old ones were VERY worn out... .

 

[JFlagg]

Update: Other than needing new control arm bushings all around, nthing wrong with the front end. However, the Limited Slip in my rear end is bound up like a locker. That would explain the front tires skidding in corners... Took of the rear diff. cover(Mag-Hytec) and the magnets are just FULL of metal dust. No chunks, filings etc. just metallic grease basically. Has this happened to anyone? Seems to me the clutch disc just wore out? Never worked on diff. before, so basing this on what I have read. Anyone have any input?



PS: Changed fluid and added new LS additive and did some circles and figure 8's as directed by one dirt track racer and a rear end guy to see if it would help... . it didn't. :-laf

 

[JFaughn]

Sounds right to me , flush out axial housing , replace clutches , if there is some thing els wrong , you should see as your doing this .

 

[JFlagg]

Thats what I figured. I was told the clutch's friction material is metallic, so that would explain all the metallic paste on my magnets.