Front end parts ideas please

[Posm]

I am about to rebuild the front end on my truck, a 2500 4 X 4 and would like your input. I am going with the Ingles adj. ball joints and the energy suspension eurathane replacement bushings on the rebuild. I allready have a Moog we'll replace it for life track bar. I was wondering about front U-joint and seal replacement while it is torn down. What about the drag link and other parts. Whoose to use and part numbers if you have them. I have a 120K on a late 2000 and the tire wear has been great. I am ready to replace my Michelin 235/ 85s that have over 70 K on them and the wear is perfect. Ideas please and I will report back after the replacement. Oh and yes, I am having to heard it down the road now. It is nothing that has happened all at once, just normal wear.

 

[Rob Thomas]

Posm,



I know your not gonna' find a replacment for the drag link, 'cept fer the dealer,no one makes them yet ,the one from a '98 is close but not close enough. Thr rest I can't help ya with, sorry.



Later, Rob

 

[dseabaugh]

You need to check again on the Moog "replace for life" track bar. a buddy of mine who has owned an alignment shop for 30 years told me about it so I contacted a local jobber and they said they didn't know anything about it. Sooooooooo I called Moog. Moog warrants the trackbar on the 2500 trucks and up for 90 days and the HALF TON pickups for life. I ordered the adjustable ball assembly for mine and havn't had to adjust it yet. wears better than the last 5 (yes that is %&% #@ five) track bars.

 

[Bill Littlefield]

Track bar and U-joints

A while back I replaced my front U-joints a bearings. I was advised by others on this site to be sure to use "greasable" us joints. I found some at my local Car Quest with zerks. Nat'l didn't have them although others told me they found them there. Mine is a '95, 2500 4x4 so I don't know and doubt if part numbers are the same. I can't find the numbers now anyway. I posted that info back when I did the job but as far as I know, we still can't search for it. I know the brand was not Spicer. That's what the original U-joints were and they were not greasable.



There has been lots of info warning/advising how to pull the hubs without damaging the bearings. I hope you a good handle on this. It's too much to post know.



I recently replaced my trac bar with an adjustable one from DT products (1-888-776-2403). I'm very happy with it. The installation was easier than I thought it would be. It seems to be made much better than OEM bar and the truck has never driven better. If you should decide to go this route, a word of caution. My kit was short some nuts. I've heard of others who got kits that were short an item or two. Don't start the job until your sure you have everything or you might be down a few days waiting on parts.



Bill L.

 

[azcummins]

Bill-

I had my front bearings out last night in under 10 min... no damage. What I did was pull the 4 bolts that bolt the hubs to the axle shaft and dropped the hub/rotor assembly out as one. Once I had all that out I impact hammered the studs on the rotor out and the hub easily pulled away from the rotor. I didn't try to pull out my bearings but they were right there in front of me.



How is the other way to do it?

 

[azcummins]

BTW... where is the best place to get the front axle seal for the passenger side axle shaft? I boogered mine up last night putting the axle shaft in so it is leaking pretty good... oops... still cheaper than brakes+ though!

 

[JIM S.]

here is an idea..... ford superdutys use the dana 60... . perhaps with enough research one could find drag links and such for different applications that would be better for our trucks. Have you guys looked at the steering links on a SD? they are beefy! I just wish mine were that heavy duty! . just an Idea!

Jim