Front end parts questions....

[The patriot]

Ok, I replaced the ball joints.
When I pulled the old ones, they were not worn as much as I previously thought. Could have easily went to 175K on them (I installed zerks when I picked it up from the dealer) maybe 200K
I'm regretting I went with anything other then OEM on the BJ's.......
Anyway, the right side tie rod (the 4' long one) is worn enough I'm definitely doing that. I think I'll do the drivers side also, just because I'm under there. I also have the steering column bushing, pitman arm, and link that goes on that. All Mopar. Except the bushing.

I need help with the steering damper.
I can get an OEM for about $65 delivered. (It's discontinued)
A Rancho RS5000 is $46 + shipping.
I do virtually NO offroading.
My intention is longevity. I don't care about aesthetics.
The steering box was done about 30K miles ago, it should be GTG after an alignment.
Suffice to say, I'm REAL HAPPY with the OEM parts.
Greasing at every oil change has payed it's dividends.
tia

 

[DavidC]

Yeah, I installed the zerks soon after buying the truck. I believe a member here first started the trend. I expect all the steering/ball joints to last a long time. Mine is 2wd so I can't help with the damper.

 

[Jim W]

I installed a Fox Steering Stabilizer (985-24-046) on my 2008 third gen, Mar 2018. I purchased this through from Amazon Prime for $116.24. Why? The reviews on the Fox Steering Stabilizer where excellent.

 

[Stox5225]

TECHNICALLY if your steering linkage is 100%, you don’t need a damper. It just helps with bump steer. That being said, it came that was from the factory, and I installed a dual set up from Skyjacker lol. So it is what it is. Had mine for over a year. No issues.

 

[The patriot]

Ok, thanks guys.
More options are good as long as the quality/longevity is there.
I dont have a lot of money, but I'll happily pay more for a better part.

 

[Jim W]

I am retired and have been for 9 years now so we live on a fix budget. One thing I was taught and still practice to this day is try and buy the item once. By this I mean if there is a tool or part for a vehicle is to buy the best that you can afford and not the low cost model to save a buck. You will end up buying the tool or part a second/third time and spend more for the tool or part than the higher units cost originally.

 

[DavidC]

I am retired and have been for 9 years now so we live on a fix budget. One thing I was taught and still practice to this day is try and buy the item once. By this I mean if there is a tool or part for a vehicle is to buy the best that you can afford and not the low cost model to save a buck. You will end up buying the tool or part a second/third time and spend more for the tool or part than the higher units cost originally.

Very true, retired or not.

Dave

 

[JMcCoy]

I had a pro comp for a long time, in it seemed to work Find and bolted right in. I now have the Fox, which is much better In every aspect. That's being said, if you don't off road, in don't have larger tires, it probably is not worth the extra money.

Btw, steering stabler's have virtually no effect on bump steer. Bump steer is the steering effect transmitted during suspension travel. The steering stabilizer helps to keep your vehicle going straight, and not yanked to the side, on imperfect roads, or no roads at all.

 

[AEdelheit]

I had a pro comp for a long time, in it seemed to work Find and bolted right in. I now have the Fox, which is much better In every aspect. That's being said, if you don't off road, in don't have larger tires, it probably is not worth the extra money.

Btw, steering stabler's have virtually no effect on bump steer. Bump steer is the steering effect transmitted during suspension travel. The steering stabilizer helps to keep your vehicle going straight, and not yanked to the side, on imperfect roads, or no roads at all.

Gonna agree and disagree here, I work with these trucks every day.

True bump steer is caused by the drag link and track bar being at different angles causing unwanted steering wheel movement when the suspension cycles. The steering damper simply dampens quick movements, it will not keep the truck going straight on a crowned road but if you hit a large pot hole on one side will keep the steering wheel from being yanked out of your hands.

Good direct replacement options for a 98 are hard to find but as mentioned Fox are a high quality steel body unit would work just make sure it uses an IFP ( Internal Floating Piston) and not Emulsion.

 

[JMcCoy]

I too am very familiar with the suspension in these trucks.

I will agree to agree, since you just used different terminology and added the mechanics for what I just said. Yes it's the relation between the track bar and tie rods, but I was not trying to get do technical.

On a T-steering setup, the damper itself has very little effect on bump steer since the steering must move in order for the suspension to travel. Nothing will prevent that other than proper geometry. That's why the truck will either steer to the side, or transmit it to the steering wheel. Again, unless the OP's truck is lifted, its shouldn't me an issue (can't read signature on phone).

Correct the steering damper will not help with a crown on the road (never said it did). Now Fox advertises that you can use nitrogen pressure to fight a crown, but I prefer not to do to that.

Sorry so long winded, but just wanted to explain. Now back on topic. Finding a stabilizer is no problem if you re-use your brackets. Just have to make sure the length and bolt holes are the right size. I do agree IFP is better, but not necessary.