Front End Pinion Seal?

[macdaddy]

Thanks, Mac!!!



I have the G56 with transfer case... does anyone know where the vent for it is??

SF



Climb under the truck from the drivers side. The vent hose starts at the transfer case on the driver side. It's the same wether its the 271,or the 273 T case.



Mac

 

[Bob4x4]

Hey Mac,The trick is to drive faster than the dirt:-laf



The front vent should be clipped to the upper shock bracket. For those that like to play in the water the higher the better for the vents,just make sure when you tye wrap them that you don't over tighten and pinch them

 

[macdaddy]

Hey Mac,The trick is to drive faster than the dirt:-laf



The front vent should be clipped to the upper shock bracket. For those that like to play in the water the higher the better for the vents,just make sure when you tye wrap them that you don't over tighten and pinch them

Hey dude... ... .....



Harry and I were checking out you guys pics..... I guess if you can bury the front end like the one pic in the dunes...



You already know about the vents and their importance,,,,,



Mac

 

[Bob4x4]

Or you can stay above the dust level... ... ... ... ... ...

#ad

 

[JMusso]

that is friggin insane, I would never have the cajones to do that

 

[Bob4x4]

:-laf with the properly built truck it is repeatable... ... ... ... . but yes it does take a bit of intestinal fortitude as well.



There is a growing number of Carli equipped trucks that are capable of this feat. Most of the time there are no cameras around. That photo was to go along with a magazine write up/cover.

 

[macdaddy]

:-laf with the properly built truck it is repeatable... ... ... ... . but yes it does take a bit of intestinal fortitude as well.



There is a growing number of Carli equipped trucks that are capable of this feat. Most of the time there are no cameras around. That photo was to go along with a magazine write up/cover.

Bob... .....



I wanna make my Dually do that!!!!!.



Can you help me out?



Mac

 

[Bob4x4]

No problem Mac... ... ... ... ... you just won't want to ride your slow bike anymore :-laf

 

[JDubien]

Torque to rotate method

Looks like I'll be replacing my front pinion seal very soon (83k). I've asked around locally and the mechanics I've spoken with all say its an easy repair using the impact method and not to worry about torque to rotate precision. I will perform this repair myself but don't want to damage my diff by trying to cut corners. I see there are mixed opinions here on the TDR as well, so I ask the following.



It seems to me the torque to rotate method could be done without removing the axles and bearing assemblies. I'm sure the torque readings will be slightly higher due to turning more parts but wouldn't it be relative if reassembled using the same torque numbers? Don't you think removing the tires/wheels and brake calipers would eliminate the majority of the resistance? I can't imagine there is very much resistance in turning the bearing assemblies and axles, especially with the brakes removed. I'm also thinking removing just one side tire/wheel/brake and leaving the other one on the ground would provide the same results if not better considering its an open diff.



What do you guys think?



Thanks in advance,

 

[DGamelin]

If you want the correct readings you'll have to do it by the book, take it all apart. There's no half way when the measurements are that clsoe. My truck has 90k miles on it and I just replaced the third front seal now. The first was done under warranty, I did the last two. They seem to go out about every 30k miles. I now put a mark on the pinion and nut, then put the nut back to the same place that it was. I now tried putting one quart of dino oil 85-140w and the rest with the synthetic that belongs in it. I run long non-stop trips usually 950 miles on the first day. It seems my customers whos trucks are used locally don't have these issues, just the ones that run on the highway. I think the axle has a flaw in it. The oil shoot at the top where the gear lube is thrown in has to come out through the bearing. If you look at it inside of a dana reverse cut 60 axle, it has a relief shoot out the bottom for the oil to come out. The only way for the oil to get out of the AAM pinion cone is through a spinning bearing. I think it's building up just enough preasure to be a headache with synthetic. Every seal I have taken out looks like new. I'd feel better if I could see something wrong, I could be grasping at straws here. I have a customer who runs hot shot, he stoped using synthetic because he got tired of replacing pinion seals. One of his trucks has almost 600k on it and the other over 200k. I'd take a dana any day.



____________________

93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 265k

04. 5 3500 4wd cc dully 373 6 speed 90k

 

[Bob V]

Remember the oil can leak out between the splines and the yoke. You need to seal this area too. I have seen a few seals replaced where this is the problem