Front end rebuild - What tools needed?

[RSchwarzli]

So I lost a tie rod end. Well, not fully lost but was getting close.



So I will do the two tie rod ends and the drag link so it is fresh.



Will also do my Kingpins as last time I had an alignment 4 years ago they told me I would need to soon do it. :-laf



And will replace wheel bearings while I am in there. And U joints so they are done.



Anything I missed?





My actual question though is what tools do I need? I started with the hub removal an hour ago and hit my first road block. Seems I need a big 6 sided socket to get the rest of the hub off so I can get the rotor off.



Does anyine have a PN and size of that needed socket?



Also, is there any other special tools needed? I did get a 4' long 7/8 hex allen key for the kingpins. Anything else missing? I hate getting into a job and find out I dont have the tools needed.



Thanks guys!



Robert

 

[DVolk]

You wont need to have any special tools . Ive done sevral rebuilds on both GM and Dodge axels . I got the socket the size im not shure of the size you will want the bigger one the as the smaller size is for the 1/2 ton stuff . On mine i didnt need to replace the bearings my king pins were fine in fact . I never found any bad ones . I needed to

replace the tie rods and both universal joints in the axels make shure you buy the greasible ones though . On your hubs depending on the ones you have ive had to drill off the heads of the allen screws to get them off then remove with pliers . Make shure you use Anti seize on those and dont be a ffraid to use too much of it even on the inside of the allen heads them selves . But other than that its a EZ job .

 

[JHumphries]

The king pins on those axles are torqued to 600 ft-lbs! They are a major pain to get off. I used an 8 foot cheater pipe with a 3/4 inch drive ratchet. I found a 3/4 drive 7/8 inch allen socket here: <URL>https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pr..."-Hex-Wrench-{47}-Socket,-Upper-King-Pin-Tool </URL>
I then bought a 3 to 1 torque multiplier to install the new ones. I also need the multiplier for the lug nuts since it was a dually.

 

[JHumphries]

On another note, the king pins are steel, where as the part that rides on them is plastic. Maybe you will get lucky and only need to replace the plastic part.
This is a good walthrough with lots of pictures. It would be some good reading before you start.
Pirate4x4. Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

 

[DVolk]

I never had any troubles getting the axels arpart on any Dana 60 , used air and they came off no fuss no muss

 

[RSchwarzli]

3/4 way through the rebuild. U joints all replaced, upper and lower king pins done. New seals and bearings in the hubs. Just have to replace the spindle bearings and learn how to install the axles without all the crap getting on the splined ends on reinstall, and how to get it aligned with the seal without nicking it!

 

[RedRamAndy]

I just have a D-series truck, so I can't help much. I did think about converting mine though. It would be cool if something like this was made for our trucks. Costly, but cool. Poly Performance JEEP/TRUCK & BUGGY :: Axles, CV & Accessories :: RCV Performance :: RCV Dana 60 CV Joint - 4X4 Off-Road Parts, JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CNC Brakes, Johnny Joints®, Currie Enterprises, Edelbrock, Pit Bull

 

[DVolk]

You should be fine with a small amount of grease on the splines and slide them in

if your knuckels are fairly clean then you should be good to go !!!!!

the same with the hub bearing quality grease is the key . This the same with the king pins . greas them often includeing the universals , i grease the front end more often the than the driveline . With all the water and crap we have around here . I use a good red grease or when i can find , my mind has drawn a blank but i think its called tacky grease , its orange made in Eastern Wash ing ton melting point is 1500 degrees made for farm equipment and trucks , only draw back is if you ned to pump it when could warm it up first as it wont pump very well .