2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front end turning weird

[KIseminger]

I recently drove to Denver for a Bike show and when I pulled off of the interstate it felt like my front end was riding on rumble strips when I have about 1/4-1 turn in the wheel, but if I crank it all the way it goes away; it almost felt like my right front tire was hanging up a little (no, my 4wd was not engaged). I found out that it only does it after it has been driven a while. I just put AMSOIL 75W-90 in the diffs, that about the only thing that's changed. The only thing I can think of is the alignment. Kind of confused... ..... Oo.

 

[Turbo Tim 1]

Wheel Bearing? Maybe

 

[KIseminger]

Hmmmm... ... . perhaps

 

[Joe G.]

Check front axle U-joints.

 

[LHartman]

Mine was doing that intermitently when I first bought my truck. I had to change out the passenger side wheel bearing assembly. The sound was exactly as you described..... a rumbling sound and you could feel it in the steering. I've had bearings go in other rigs, but generally it was something that progressively got louder and louder. This came on right away. I suppose one way to tell is pull the assembly and look at it. I took mine off and began turning it and could hear and feel that something wasn't right. If it's doing it after you drive it awhile, you might not notice it until the assembly heats up, then acts up.



Good luck.



Loren

 

[KIseminger]

Mmkay... ... ruling things out. I tried making figure 8 turns just to make sure the AMSOIL wasn't worked in to the clutch pack in the diff, but no luck. Didn't think it would work but what the hell. I will have to check on the wheel bearings and U-joint tommorow, any good way to check the U-joint?



Thanks for the help.

 

[Joe G.]

Put the front axle up on axle stands. Then rotate the tires by hand with the steering in different positions. Normally a U-joint will be smooth with the wheels pointed straight ahead. Get worse when they are not.

 

[KIseminger]

Cool, thanks.

 

[Woodenhead]

Once you get it in the air, remove the caliper and you'll find out what the problem is pretty quick. If you think it's a wheel bearing don't drive it. Mine got so hot when it went out on the highway it actually boiled my brake fluid and I lost the brakes, at first I thought it was a caliper sticking.



My drivers side wheel bearing melted down on me a while back and I ended up stranded at a LesSchwab of all places and was forced to have them fix it .



When they removed the nut from the end of the axle (stub) shaft the threads came with it so I had to buy a new stub shaft too. I think if they had used some heat on the nut before removing it all would have been well but Schwabeez isn't allowed to have torches (not this one anyway). Be careful taking the nut off the shaft, maybe use some heat on the nut first or it may cost you a stub shaft.



Ended up costing me $1100. 00 for a bearing ass'y, rotor, caliper, stub shaft and misc. parts like nuts and bolts and one nights stay in a crappy hotel.







Mike

 

[KIseminger]

Owwwww! That sounds like it hurt Mike.



I am going to ccheck it in the next hour or two. If I can't find anything I am just goig to take it to the shop.



I'll post something as soon as I know what's up.



-Kyle

 

[KIseminger]

Still Not Sure

Well, it's still up in the air. Still not sure what's going on. Brought it in to the local shop, 1 mechanic thinks it's a wheel bearing and the other thinks it's in the diff. They ran it in 4wd on a lift and the front right tire would catch. When they grabbed the wheel with their hands and spun it you could feel a slight catch. And the frequency was too high for it to be a U-joint. Other than that it turned pretty smoothly.



So let me pose some more questions to you guys before I bring it to the dealer... ...



-If it was the limited slip wouldn't it get worse as I turned sharper?

-Has anyone else out there had trouble with this after switching to AMSOIL?

-If it was the wheel bearing wouldn't it be constant?



Just some more thoughts.



-Kyle

 

[Joe G.]

The front is not limited slip. Rear only for that.



If it's a wheel bearing it may not be constant. Depends on where the flat spots on the bearings are.



The U-joint may be high a frequency sound since it has needle bearings. At least it's supposed to. Some times they are ground up and gone.



If the sound changes acording to steering angle suspect a U-joint.



If it does not then suspect a wheel bearing. If it makes the noise straight ahead then it is most probably a wheel bearing. The U-joint angle is not changing when the axle rotates in that position so it should be quiet unless it is really shot.

 

[2ndgen2500]

wow, my truck is doing the same exact thing... its very annoying and nerve racking... . i recently changed to amsoil 75w90 as well... . this is puzzling me i thought it might be a wheel bearing but from what i can see, it is not, i just did the brakes not too long ago and repacked the bearings.

 

[KIseminger]

Thanks Joe-

The only reason I was talking about limited slip was it was sort of hard to tell where it came (front or rear). So i was talk about the rear diff. Sorry about that.

I will have to pull the wheel tommorow and take a look. I want to do as much as I can before i take the dive for a dealer.

So you think if it does it in the first turn of the steering wheel that it may be a U-Joint? After I get past the 1st turn it goes away. From what you said that is what it is sounding like.

-Kyle

 

[KIseminger]

Originally posted by 2ndgen2500

wow, my truck is doing the same exact thing... its very annoying and nerve racking... . i recently changed to amsoil 75w90 as well... . this is puzzling me i thought it might be a wheel bearing but from what i can see, it is not, i just did the brakes not too long ago and repacked the bearings.

The funny thing is, I have used conventional 75W90 in both axles before w/ friction modifiers and have had zero problems. I just can't think of a good reason that the AMSOIL would cause it, but you never know I guess. I picked up a bottle of limited slip additive to put in (even though it's a standard axle). It can't hurt.....

 

[Joe G.]

Basically, if the noise sounds the same reagardless of angle it is most probably the wheel bearing. If it changes with steering angle then the U-joint may be the problem.



If it's straight ahead the U-joint is not working so it should feel smooth. If the steering is turned then as the axle rotates the U-joint moves on the cross piece. You might want to put a pry bar or big screw driver in where U-joint is and see if it's a bit sloppy. There are no zerks on the factory U-joint so they can get dry. I took one off mine that was barely noticible. One of the four bearings was shot. Dry and rusty. I noticed it as a slight thump on a turn. Worse to the left than right. When I turned the wheel by hand with some angle on the steering angle I could feel a slight grinding. The bad U-joint was on the passenger's side. The driver's side is still the original.



Of course, you have to take the same stuff apart to get to either of them.

 

[2ndgen2500]

well i can rule out the U- Joint problem... i guess its bearing time... son of a $#*@!!!!!

 

[Rhondasway]

Will a bad Ujoint cause shaking in the front end? I've got a worsening shake, bad on braking. Brakes are all perfect (new and upgraded), and driver's wheel bearing ass'y recently replaced.

 

[Joe G.]

I don't think so. Track bar, steering shock, tie rod ends, alignment are more likely.

 

[KIseminger]

Originally posted by 2ndgen2500

well i can rule out the U- Joint problem... i guess its bearing time... son of a $#*@!!!!!

Look at it this way, bearings are going to be easier to replace than a u-joint on an axle