Front end work woes......

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I had my truck to a shop to do an alignment. There was much play in the steering wheel, and they didnt want to align it until this was taken care of first.
Long story short, they adjusted the steering box so that I can hold a straight line again. #ad

Bad part is, I need a lower ball joint, track bar, and a pitman arm. $650. 00 before the alignment!! :O
I'm certain I can do the track bar, and the pitman arm to save $$$.
Can anyone reccomend a brand on these? I dont think the OEM was up to snuff, and should have lasted longer.
I'll probibally have the shop do the ball joint (maybe both lowers). They have Moog parts, does anybody out there know if they come with grease fittings?
I should have asked them, but I was a bit scared at the estimate, so I just wanted to get out of there.
I've dealt with this shop before, and the way I describe them is "thorough but not cheap".
TIA

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 59,000 Mi as of 10/21/00.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

 

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If the shop can supply Moog balljoints, please post the part numbers. I have recently called Moog, and was told they have no part numbers for 1998-2001.

You will be able to get a Moog track bar, mine was about 155. 00 locally. It should only take an 45 minutes to install by yourself.

If you are calling the bar that joins the driver and passenger side steering knuckles together, you will probably not find replacements in Moog or TRW. I had to get both ends through the dealer. They will set you back about 65. 00 each. Also and easy diy project. If you measure carefully, you will get your steering wheel pretty close to straight. A couple of test drives with a pair of channel locks and with the sleeve loose, you can straighten the steering wheel yourself.

243



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99 QC 2500 ST 4X4 SB 24V/5speed 3. 54/LSD Driftwood/Agate
Walker 21468, VDO, Bridgestone 285/75/16 MT's, RS9000's, Hella 500's

-- email address removed --

 

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243, I'll see if they put part #'s on the estimate later on today and will post them if they did.
Eric

 

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Boy you 4x4 guys have it hard... my friends dually has 165,000 miles on it and he has never had to replace anything under the truck!!!

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1993 Dodge Prostock Daytona 7:70@172, 1987 Grand National 11:77@115, 1996 Dodge Ram 3500 Dually. Stock with a 5 speed, Home page http://www.home.earthlink.net/~whra3

 

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Hyper, my Dad has a 1990 1 ton and has no front end problems... then again he dont think a foot of play in the steering wheel is all that bad. #ad

I see you have a GN. You the orig owner?
I got rid of mine when I got this truck.
110,000 miles of trouble free service, and a 12 sec(if I could get it to hook up) commuter to boot!! I miss that car. #ad

My little brother has it, so it's still in the family. #ad

 

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243, lower right ball joint moog # is 8607T Price they gave me was $78. 35. R&R is $168. 00.
Price they gave me on the track bar(#1413) was $258. 00,(R&R is $49. 00) so you should be able to do much better than the $78. 00.
If you, or anyone else knows if these have a zerk fitting, please let me know. I'll most likely have them do the ball joints anyway, but I like to be able to grease them.
I'd guess you should be able to get 25%+ off these prices.
Thanks. Eric

 

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Yeah, us 4x4 guys got it bad. Maybe I should transplant the Cummins into a Ford 250.

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Gregor Switca
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96 2500 4x4 auto SLT.
99. 5 VW Jetta TDI
Nothing but diesel in my driveway.

 

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try NAPA. I have replaced the drag link NAPA 269-6079($174) lifetime warranty, track bar ($225)mopar, lower right ball joint NAPA 260-1395($51. 99), and tie rod NAPA 269-6078($191) lifetime warranty. Also while in the neighborhood, check axle u-joint. I have eaten 3 in 77K miles. NAPA makes a GREASABLE one NUJ 374 ($43... mopar $110). Same item (one says spicer, one says dana... same company?)

LOL

 

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Re placed upper and lower ball joints this summer on my 97. While in the the shop,also had them replace axel joints. All new parts have grease fittings! My 90 modelcame from factory with fittings everywhere,and I never replaced any front end parts. DC is just too cheap to spend an extra $2 per truck to help us owners out.

 

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Patriot,
I haven't had to touch my ball joints yet I did replace my whole steering stabilizer with Moog parts seems to be holding up fine with 36" tires. I can tell you if you want an awsome tracbar I would recomend the DT TracBar it's nothing short of Awesome, #ad
they make them for non lifted trucks as well, mine was $300 for the over 4" of lift model so I am sure it's probably a little less exspensive for you. that is still just slightly above OE price and the quality is much greater really heavy duty both ends are adjustable hiem joints.

DT Products & Fab
Toll Free 1-888-776-2403
Tech Line 1-520-776-4129
EZ Street Prescott, AZ 86301

To view some good pic's after install click on the link in my signature and go to the photo album or the My Ram 2500HD tab.

Scott

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1997 Dodge Ram 2500 HD / Club Cab, Cummins Turbo Diesel (silencer ring removed), 4. 5" Skyjacker Double Flex suspension lift, 36x14. 5"x16. 5" Ground Hawg radial tires on 16. 5x9. 75 Weld Super Singles, dual steering stabilizer, 4. 10 precision gears, 33-tooth Speedo gear, Rhino liner, Grizzly double bent nerf bars, Bushwhacker flares, Kanduco grill insert, Confer super skid axle truss, DT Trac-bar, Moog tie rod system, Fabritech Traction bars, Energy sway bar bushings and end links. Truck Pic's

 

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Something you folks with the newer rigs with the "lubed for life" joints may want to consider is installing zerks on them. It's a fast easy job,just drill a hole in the top of the ball joint and screw the zerk in,no need to tap. I have a tractor that was going trough it's ball joints once a year at $170 each. Since I installed zerks and grease them regularly I haven't replaced any joints for 4 years now. My '95s have zerks everywhere they're needed,but I know you guys with newer rigs got shorted. If you do it before they go out you be a lot of dollars ahead.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 12-31-2000). ]

 

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Guys the Moog suspension parts do have grease fittings.

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Patriot
What is the reason that the pitman arm needs to be replaced, how did they determine its bad ? The arm is made of solid steel and has no parts to wear out, it attaches to the steering box and the drag link. The only tmie one needs to be replaced is on highly lifted trucks to correct steering geometry or has cracked / broken from contact with rocks in extreme four wheeling in which case the steering box usually breaks
Dean

[This message has been edited by WeirCummin (edited 12-31-2000). ]

 

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Weir cummin, I'm not guilty of any of the above. It's strictly a street driven truck, and I'm it's only driver.
I was there when the shop was trying to diagnose why I had such excessive play in the front end. One guy was in the truck with it idling, and was moving the wheel from side to side. I saw the slack in the track bar, and pittman arm. There is a joint where it attaches to the (drag link?)and this is where the play was. It's where the grease fitting is. The truck is stock height, and was never modified in any way. I do my own oil changes @ 4000 miles, and grease it at this interval.
They adjusted the box, and it's better than the dealer had it.
I found a few places where I can get the track bar for about $190. 00, and lower ball joint is between $49. 00- $63. 00. These are for Moog parts.
Anyone have a part # for the pittman arm? Nobody can find it in a Moog part #??
TIA Eric

[This message has been edited by The patriot (edited 12-31-2000). ]