2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front hub bearing support

[ZR600]

I am changing ball joints on my 97 3500 4x4 and the front hub bearing support is rusted on. Anyone got a good tip they can share for getting that thing off? I soaked it in penitrating oil and I used an air chisel to try and loosen it, I also tried a BFH but no luck. Thanks in advance for any help... ... ... ... ... . Brian

 

[krs]

Brian,



There's been a lot of threads about the job, so do a search.



You're going to need a big puller that will mount on the wheel studs to pull the hub out. The big tip is to leave the large axle nut, the outer 1-11/16" nut, on while you pull. The bearings are in a uniitized hub that will come apart if you don't have that nut on. The hubs cost over $200. each and are not supposed to be taken apart.



There's a neat trick that I saw described here. It involved loosening the four 12-point bolts that hold the hub onto the spindle about 1/4" then using a 6" extension to push the hub out using the truck's power steering. Hopefully someone can point to that thread because the trick sounded like it would work. By the time I saw it I'd already taken all of my tie rods off so I couldn't try it.

 

[LHartman]

Like KRS said, there are 4, 12 point bolts on the back side of the spindle. The bearing "hub" and rotor will all come off in one piece. No need to take remove the bearing assembly from the rotor if you're just replacing ball joints. Just remove the 4 bolts and the whole thing will come off, then you can pull the axle and do the ball joints.



Here's something that goes over some of the steps.

http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Front Axle Tech/Front Axle Tech.htm



Loren

 

[ZR600]

I pulled the caliper off first. Then I pulled the rotor off the axle shaft. I then removed the four twelve point bolts holding on the bearing hub. That is where I am stuck as the bearing hub is rusted on. I will have to try putting in the bolts loose and trying to turn the wheel. That just might work. If you leave the rotor on then you have to take the axle out with the rotor and bearing support on? Wow that would be a heavy monster to get in and lined up in the carrier. It would save some time, but in my case I needed to get behind the rotor to tap on it and spray it down with pen. lubricant. Thanks for the help guys, hopefully tomorrow night I will get done with work early enough to get to work on it... ... ... ... ... Brian

 

[fest3er]

Originally posted by ZR600
I pulled the caliper off first. Then I pulled the rotor off the axle shaft. I then removed the four twelve point bolts holding on the bearing hub. That is where I am stuck as the bearing hub is rusted on. I will have to try putting in the bolts loose and trying to turn the wheel. That just might work. If you leave the rotor on then you have to take the axle out with the rotor and bearing support on? Wow that would be a heavy monster to get in and lined up in the carrier. It would save some time, but in my case I needed to get behind the rotor to tap on it and spray it down with pen. lubricant. Thanks for the help guys, hopefully tomorrow night I will get done with work early enough to get to work on it... ... ... ... ... Brian

Just last week, I watched the mechanic do mine. He loosened the four bolts a little, then used a 5 lb. mallet and a socket with extension to pound on the bolts in turn. It took a fair bit of strong pounding, but the assemblies did come off.

Steps were:

1. remove tire
2. remove caliper
3. remove large axle nut
4. slightly loosen the four mounting bolts
5. use BFH and socket with extension to beat on the slightly loosened bolts
6. when bolts are tight, go back to step 3.

I would suggest using a good-sized rubber 'jewelers' wheel to remove a fair bit of the rust from both parts, but don't remove good metal! Then use anti-seize compound to minimize future rusting when you reassemble it.

N

 

[ramman]

Some time ago I post instructions given to me by a friend at the dealer that uses the shot cuts and he said to loosen the four bolts and use a socket and extension and place against the turn stops while another person idles the engine and slowly turns the steering wheel to push it out.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Check the bottom left photo in TDR #40, p. 17. The hub sticks through the knuckle just inboard of the four 12-point bolts. Spray rust penetrant on the hub there.

 

[krs]

"If you leave the rotor on then you have to take the axle out with the rotor and bearing support on?"



Not necessarily. The hub is what's rusted into the spindle and the flange on the hub is only about 1/2" wide. Once it comes loose you can go back and remove the axle nut which will allow you to take the rotor and hub off while leaving the axle to come by itself with the u-joint and spindle stub. There's only two ways to get the hub out of there. One is to pound (or press with the steering) those four bolts after backing them out about 1/4", and the other is to use the Mother of all Pullers on the entire assembly. Someone in Tennessee (or somewhere out there) has a homemade puller that was pictured here and worked. Someone else posted a picture of a really big three legged puller he rented that bolted to three of the wheel studs. Nothing less will do.



That thing is as tough to get apart as anything I've ever run across if it's solidly rusted. You can soak it forever without much effect. I feel for you.



By the way, the hub CAN be put back together on the backing plate if the seal isn't destroyed. I did it with my press. It's not to be recommended because there's no way to measure the bearing preload but I've run over 10,000 miles now with no sign of leaking or heating bearings.

 

[Cooker]

I think pounding on the studs from the backside is the only way to go if they are really rusted in there. I tried 3 different pullers (each subsequent one larger than the last ) without any success.

 

[daveshoe]

since you have the rotor off already, you can make a puller out of a heavy steel plate. I used a 1/2 inch plate and drilled a 1-1/4 hole in the center to center the driveshaft [4 wd] I then drilled 4 five eighths holes that line up with the 4 metric bolts that you remove from the rear, Remove the bolts and run them in through the front of the heavy steel plate. When it gets some good tension on it,strike the plate to vibrate it , and it helps a little. You probably will have to get longer metric bolts to go in from the front. I took one out of the truck to match it up . 14MM x 80 MM I think. it pulled out nice and straight this way . BTW-- a hole saw and drill press works great for the center hole .

To search a good thread, Type in ''front hub puller'' Thread starter is casey veldcamp. be sure to look at the links to see the mother of all pullers plus what you can buy or rent. Good stuff here.

 

[ZR600]

Got It!!!!!!

I want to thank everyone for the Help!!! I got it apart tonight. The tip to use the steering power with a socket and an extension works great! It popped it right out. I did not even start the truck! Now I found one more bad part..... the u-joints are dry sounding so I am going to replace those too. Thanks again... ... ... ... ... . Brian

 

[krs]

Great!



Now get yourself a big supply of anti-sieze and smear it on every surface and thread that goes into any other place. Even if you never have to go there again on this truck somebody else will thank you someday.

 

[daveshoe]

Originally posted by KRS

Great!



Now get yourself a big supply of anti-sieze and smear it on every surface and thread that goes into any other place. Even if you never have to go there again on this truck somebody else will thank you someday.

You don't mean to put never seize on the 4 12 point metric bolts from the rear,do you? they come from the factory with green locktite. Guys, tell me if I am wrong about this

 

[krs]

You're wrong.

Green loctite, in the first place, is a penetrating sealant meant to be used on assembled parts, and, in the second place, no anti-sieze product will encourage the loosening of a properly torqued fastener.



Ohio... ...