2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front hub changing procedure? Can anyone clarify?

[CRSmith]

So, I've done some research on here about changing the front hub/wheel bearing on my 2001. 5 4x4, but haven't nailed everything down yet. Maybe you can look at what I've got and critique the methods? Thanks.



Take off wheel, caliper, and rotor. The rotor is separate on 01. 5's and will come off without the hub. This part I can handle.



I've heard three options for this next part:



1. Remove the 4, 12point bolts. Remove the axle ujoint. This will let you take out the stub axle too so you can leave the 1 11/16ths nut on the stub axle so you won't pull the bearing apart, right? Then fabricate a slide hammer puller that attaches to the wheel lugs with a hole in the middle for the end of the stub axle and pull the hub. Remove stub axle and place in new bearing/hub assembly.



2. Remove the 1 11/16ths nut, and the 4, 12point bolts, and use the power steering to push the steering stops alternately? Not sure how this works.



3. Remove the 1 11/16ths nut and loosen the 4, 12point bolts. Then pound on the 12point bolts alternately to drive the hub out of the steering knuckle.



Reassemble.

 

[DLausche]

front hub removal

They can be a bear to remove sometimes. I know because I've tried it and ended up separating the hub into two pieces. put it back together very carefully and it has been ok for 30K+ now.



Option #1 would probably work ok and would keep the bearing from separating, but I'd also add that it would help to at least loosen the 1 11/16 nut before starting to work on it. This nut is way tight and I can't imagine how I would go about removing it once off the vehicle if it wasn't loosened while the wheel was on the ground. Personnaly, I would tend to leave the ujoint and axle shaft in place (remove the 1 11/16" nut) if at all possible to avoid damaging the oil seal in the axle tube. I suppose the #2 option would work IF the steering stops contact the hub assembly when at full left/right. Don't know if the stops contact on the hub center or the knuckle. Leave at least 1 of the 4 12pt bolts in place (loose) so it doesn't fall off onto the floor.



I read on this thread: https://www.turbodieselregister.com...&threadid=69890&highlight=front+rotor+removal where Illflem describes how to rotate the rotor/hub while hitting with a soft hammer in order to remove the hub. Not sure if he meant to have the 1 11/16 nut on or off though when doing this.



If you are trashing the hub/bearing assembly and replacing it with a new one, then heat on the backside of the knuckle would probably make it expand and loosen it's grip on the hub center. I think this will most certainly trash the inner seal on the hub though so only if you are replacing the whole hub unit...



Best of luck with your project.

-Deon

 

[CRSmith]

Thanks for the reply.

 

[drrhoades]

Here is what I did: though I didnt replace the unit bearing.



1. Remove wheel and caliper (hang caliper)

2. Remove cotter pin and axle shaft nut.

3. Loosen 4 14mm 12 point bolts on inside of knuckle.

4. Using a hub puller (preferably) attach it to the wheel studs and tighten it up. If you dont have a hub puller use something to put some pulling pressure between the axle shaft and hub.

5. Spray some penetrating oil on the axle shaft where it exits the hub.

6. Using a socket on the bolts on the back of the knuckle hit them to drive the axle out. Be sure to hit them a couple times then go to the next on so that the hub doesnt get cocked in the knuckle.

7. Tighten the puller as the hub comes out.

8. Eventually you will be able to just use the puller to pull it off.





Try to keep the axle shaft in place because the splines can damage the seal and cause a leak.



Hope this helps.



Doug

 

[drrhoades]

Here is what I did: though I didnt replace the unit bearing.



1. Remove wheel and caliper (hang caliper)

2. Remove cotter pin and axle shaft nut.

3. Loosen 4 14mm 12 point bolts on inside of knuckle.

4. Using a hub puller (preferably) attach it to the wheel studs and tighten it up. If you dont have a hub puller use something to put some pulling pressure beetween the axle shaft and hub.

5. Spray some penetrating oil on the axle shaft where it enters the hub.

6. Using a socket on the bolts on the back of the knuckle hit them to drive the axle out. Be sure to hit them a couple times then go to the next on so that the hub doesnt get cocked in the knuckle.

7. Tighten the puller as the hub comes out.

8. Eventually you will be able to just use the puller to pull it off.





Try to keep the axle shaft in place because the splines can damage the seal and cause a leak.



Hope this helps.



Doug

 

[CRSmith]

Is there an echo in here?

Thanks for the reply. That's probably the most concise explanation I've seen so far. Twice.

 

[drrhoades]

Sorry about that the computer froze up must have sent it twice.

 

[RPyle]

I didn't have any problem getting the axle out of the hub, it was getting the hub out of the knuckle that caused me the most grief. Using the puller to get the axle out of the hub is ok but I don't think using a puller against the axle for a hub assembly stuck in the knuckle is a good idea. In one of the previous threads somebody made/suggested a plate which bolts to the wheel studs and then had jack bolts push against the knuckle to press the hub out. I pushed against the caliper mounting ears and tie rod arm with mine. As was also noted by another, (sorry I am not ginving giving proper credit here but it was tdr members giving good info in previous threads), if you don't want to split the hub when pushing it out, leave the axle nut on (probably crack it first). Do a search on this and you will find some good information. My hub was rusted solid to the knuckle. Penetrating oil, some heat and persuasion will be necessary if yours is as stuck as mine was. hammering on the hub mounting bolts proved fruitless. have fun.

 

[tmacc]

I used option three. It took two hours to beat the hub off. It also took three of us to do it. It also helps if one person is left handed. Good luck.

 

[daveshoe]

Pulling plate method

To make a plate puller, first remove one of the rear 14mm 12 point bolts that hold the hub assembly to the carriage. Buy four grade 8 bolts 80 mm long the same thread as the donor bolt. [these are longer than the donor bolt] Your plate will match up to the axle shaft and the four rear hub bolts. to make it ,I used a 1/2 inch by 8 inch round plate. to lay out the pattern visualize a dice pattern of five dots on the face. The outside dots are 3-7/8'' apart and center the last dot. place your layout sheet on the steel plate and mark the holes . The outside four are drilled 5/8'' and the center is drilled 1-1/4''[ you can use a good hole saw with cutting oil in a drill press for the center hole]

First, mark an index mark on the 1-3/4 axle shaft nut -- then remove the nut. Pull the front half of the hub off the splined shaft and set aside[keep it clean] I used a 8 inch cheap Harbor Freight 3 jaw puller and put better bolts in it. Remove the four rear 12 point bolts. Place the puller plate over the shaft and thread the four grade 8 14x80 mm bolts through thefront of the puller plate. Replace the 1-3/4 axle nut over the puller plate loosely as a safety to keep the hub from falling to the floor. Tighten each bolt evenly and tap the heavy plate occasionally to equalize the pressure. You will actually hear the rust crackling as you evenly tighten and vibrate the bolts. When the hub releases, devise a way to prop up the axle shaft to keep it roughly centered to protect the seal. Remove the 1-3/4 axle nut to get the rear half of the hub removed. Use never seize before assembly and it will be easy the next time. Check all the bearings,races for smoothness and grease them. I use a bearing press to re-assemble the hub 'flush' before assembling it on the truck.

The guy that showed me this has put 380K on a set of hubs. He services them once a year. I took his ideas and added the plate puller to them