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Front hub removal made easier

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I recently changed my upper and lower ball joints on both sides along with the u joints in the axles. I have 85K on the clock. The u joints were to the point of falling out they were so bad. When I couldn't get the hub out after a couple of hours I came back to TDR and started searching. I found what I needed in the second gen section. You just need a socket and various length extensions. Obviously remove the tire, brakes, and axle nut first. I chose to break the axle nut loose while the tire was still on the ground. Then back the 4 bolts on the back of the steering knuckle out 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. Then you can start the truck and use the power steering to push the hub out from the back. This is done by placing the socket and various length extensions on one of the bolt heads until it makes contact with the axle housing (or anything that will not bend such as frame) when the wheel is turned. Move the socket/extension combo around to each bolt then apply pressure with the steering wheel. You will notice it start to move on the first one and by the time you get to the fourth bolt it will be out far enough to remove with light prying. Just remove the 4 bolts and remove the hub. You will probably have to tap the alxe with a dead blow hammer to get it to separate from the hub. Doing it like this there is no danger of pulling the hub apart like if you use a puller. Renting the ball joint press at Autozone is also a big plus. I had to make a couple of adaptors since the ones in the kit were a little long or maybe the press just a little small for a 1 ton pickup. Anyway hopefully this will help someone who is trying to do this themselves without taking it to the dealer.
 
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Unfortunately I had to use the Mopar ones. I was going to try to wait on ball joints until the after market ones come out but my u joints were failing and the ball joints were unquestionably bad. So I thought I may as well get it over all at once so hopefully I can go another 85K or more before tearing it down again.
 
WyattEarp

I spent about a month doing some work for Sprint in Mouth of Wilson/Independence/Comers Rock last year. That is beautiful country. Oh yea if you had any trouble with your phone I didn't do it :)
 
Well thanks for the compliment i love the area myself, we finally got snow last nite around 3 inches. . Its scary though usually by this time we have had at least a foot or better, makes me wonder what Feb is going to be like... Can't recall having problems with the phone other than the fact there monthly fee keeps going up... .
 
Diesel Dog

Are you talking Moog Ball Joints or U joints? If you are talking about ball joints are they greasably and can you post part #'s. Hopefully I will not need any more for a while, but you never know.
 
I talked to a front end shop the other day and he said the only ones available are Moogs, or oe dodge but that they were the same thing. He said if you installed the Moogs, they had a lifetime guarantee.
 
WHamby,

Is there any kind of adjustment for the upper ball joint? In the '03 shop manual it looks like they bolt directly into the knuckle. Used to be (OK, maybe way back when) the lower ball joint bolted directly into the knuckle, but the upper ball joint fit into a sleeve which was threaded on the outside, tapered to match the ball joint stud on the inside, and adjustment was made by screwing the sleeve into the knuckle 'till it was seated against the stud, then using a spring gauge you tightened the sleeve against the stud 'till a given amount of torque (measured by the spring gauge) was required to turn the knuckle, at which point you then tightened the nut onto the stud. If there's no adjustment, how did they manage to get the tapers of the upper and lower ball joints to exactly match that of the upper and lower tapers of the knuckle - in other words, say the bottom stud is fullly seated but the upper stud is not quite in far enough in? Somehow I can't believe machining is that precise...



Tks, -Rog...
 
RLighthall,

There is no longer any adjustment in the ball joints. Once they are pressed in that is it. The Moogs weren't available when I done mine or I would have definitely have got them. I am sure they are cheaper as well as having the warranty.
 
Snap on has a new kit it just released for ball joint removal and it uses snap rings to hold the adapters onto the c clamp (press). The price is around $500. 00 and the part # is (BJP1). This is suppose to make the auto zone kit look like a tinker toy or so states the latest issue of Petersons $ wheel & off road.
 
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