2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission front hub removal

[Gregg Mig]

Does anyone have any suguestions on removal of the front hubs, I'm replacing all 4 balljoints and the u joints. I did this to my 97 several years ago and got the hubs out without ruining the bearing. I tried using a power ram and had no success. Thanks, Gregg

 

[REFLOYD]

do a search on here you will find it. It goes into detail on how to do it.

 

[Gregg Mig]

I tried but could not find what I already knew.

 

[REFLOYD]

Okay loosen the 4 bolts that hold it to the knuckle then take a short rod(extension works good) and place between the head of one of the bolts and something solid, then start the truck and use the power steering to push it out.

 

[JDKammin]

I had a stuck hub the other day. I put one bolt back in and lightly used the air hammer on it. It wrecked the bolt, but didn't hurt the hub bearing.

 

[Gregg Mig]

guys I have tried all of the above it just wont budge,,I will die if I have to wreck the bearing to get it out because I have abs, I was told that the bearing assembly with the abs is big bucks and you can only get them from the stealers.

 

[steved]

guys I have tried all of the above it just wont budge,,I will die if I have to wreck the bearing to get it out because I have abs, I was told that the bearing assembly with the abs is big bucks and you can only get them from the stealers.

Have you tried a little heat?



Both bearings were seized in my 04. 5 and by applying a little heat to the lower portion of the knuckle (in the area it houses the bearing) with a PROPANE torch, it popped out with some coersion.



Don't get me wrong, I place a puller on the hub face (7 ton hydraulic) and P-U-L-L-E-D!! Adding a little heat helps and doesn't hurt anything if you don't get carried away (think about normal operating temps). I pulled both mine off with a puller and heat, both bearings faired fine...



Might want to try using a little heat and the powersteering trick... that way there really is no way you can damage the hub...



And don't forget to add grease to the bearing once you have the ABS sensor out...



steved

 

[jkalchik]

The *LAST* thing I'd do is use a puller or slide hammer on the studs if I wanted to save the bearing! You're pulling on the inner race, when it's the outer race that's held in place. All that force is transferred through the rolling elements.

 

[Nate]

I've torn apart quite a few Dodge/Jeep front ends and I've never had a problem getting the unit bearing off by sticking a cold chisel between the bearing and the knuckle. 3lb sledge and work around the bearing like it was a paint can lid.

 

[wtfd6]

I've torn apart quite a few Dodge/Jeep front ends and I've never had a problem getting the unit bearing off by sticking a cold chisel between the bearing and the knuckle. 3lb sledge and work around the bearing like it was a paint can lid.

this is what I just did recently when I changed my ball joints. I had even tried 14mm grade 8 bolts about 3 inches long threaded in place of the 4 bolts. I hit them with such a big hammer the bolts bent. I had a heck of a time getting my hubs out. I did have to buy a tap to fix the threads in one of my bearings.

mark

 

[DTangstrom]

If we saved one of our old brake rotors, tightened it on with the lug nuts and beat it round and round with a sledge would that work?

 

[y-knot]

When I pulled my hubs I made a puller out of scrap angle iron. It was about 2' long and was drilled to except two opposite lug nuts. I used this same puller to remove my dually adapters, and then used them to remove the hubs. In the center on the puller I welded in a large 3/4" nut, then I would use a short section of 3/4" threaded rod with a nut welded to one end to act as a press. I wish I would have taken a picture of it, but at the time I was just doing what I needed to do to get things done.

I have to replace my Ball joints also later on this fall, so maybe I'll make another one and print a picture for all to see.

 

[wtfd6]

If we saved one of our old brake rotors, tightened it on with the lug nuts and beat it round and round with a sledge would that work?

it wouldnt have worked on mine. I have broken rotors easier than getting my hubs out. I didnt have problem getting my dually adapters off. they came right off. only one rotor fought coming off. but it didnt take much to get it off.

mark

 

[Gregg Mig]

guys no luck yet I have been beating the bolts with a 5# hammer, pnematic inpact mammer, a hydraulic spreader all I been able to move it is less than the thickness of the dust shield. I do not want to wreck the bearing.

 

[WStephens]

When I replaced the rotors on the 99 I used a 4# hammer and beat the old rotors until the bearings came out of the axle housing. I also use Kroil penitrating oil to help loosen the corrosion, but it took several hours to get the bearings out. We use Kroil to dissassemble steam and gas turbines and I have never seen anything better. Then I cleaned all the corrision and used anti seize when I reassembled.

 

[SFrey]

i work part time for a guy that only sells CTD's, all i seem to do is replace ball joints and track bars/lukes links. heres what a do. remove everything to expose the hub/bearing assembly. remove the 4 12-pt bolts that hold the bearing in. remove abs sensor if equipped, and plug hole so rust won't get in. spray the separation joint (were the hub/bearing meets the knuckle) with a product from ZEP (can't remember it's full name zepreserve) install the puller that bolts to 4 of the 8 wheel studs. make sure the tie rod is still hooked up, and wheel is straight. run the puller in to apply tension on the assembly. i feel right behind the flange to see if it is starting to pull the bearing apart. with tension on the assembly take a flat chisel and place on top of the bearing assembly at the separation seam again. then beat with a 5-lb hammer. it will start to separate,apply more tension on the puller, beat some more. after it is out i take the axle out, hub off, and clean the hub bore with a scotch loc disk. then do the same with the bearing assembly, getting all the rust off, primarily in the corner were it is really built up. when going back together i coat the outside of the bearing with copper anti-seize. the longest it has taken me to do ball joints on both sides is 4 hours,10 min from drive in to drive out



scot

 

[Gregg Mig]

Well guys I finally got the bearings out of the spindle assembly, I took the nuts off of the upper and lower ball joints used a pickle fork on the lower ball joint to separate the spindle from the axle assembly,took my cutting torch and cut the stem of both ball joints,after that the whole spindle with the axle can right out. I took it to 2 different machine shops before I got the bearing hubs out. The last place I went to was Fleetpride and the guy let me go into the shop with him and together about an hour+ later on a 25 ton press they finally separated with no damage to anything. The best part about the whole thing is he did not even charge me. So all it really cost was a case of bud. Now the hard part, that is cleaning up all the parts for painting.

Does anyone know what kind of grease to use on the speed sensor? Oo. Oo. Oo.

 

[steved]

Well guys I finally got the bearings out of the spindle assembly, I took the nuts off of the upper and lower ball joints used a pickle fork on the lower ball joint to separate the spindle from the axle assembly,took my cutting torch and cut the stem of both ball joints,after that the whole spindle with the axle can right out. I took it to 2 different machine shops before I got the bearing hubs out. The last place I went to was Fleetpride and the guy let me go into the shop with him and together about an hour+ later on a 25 ton press they finally separated with no damage to anything. The best part about the whole thing is he did not even charge me. So all it really cost was a case of bud. Now the hard part, that is cleaning up all the parts for painting.

Does anyone know what kind of grease to use on the speed sensor? Oo. Oo. Oo.

I just used wheel bearing grease... nothing fancy...



While you're at it, get as much additional grease as you can into the new bearing through the speed sensor hole... from experience, I have found the unit bearings to be insufficiently greased from the factory.



steved

 

[Gregg Mig]

thanks steve, will the extra grease interfere with the operation of the ss?

 

[steved]

thanks steve, will the extra grease interfere with the operation of the ss?

No, it doesn't seem to affect it. I have only seen one thing really affect the sensor (other than just going bad) which is being covered with metal flake (usually from a failed/worn bearing somewhere)...



steved