Front hubs won't unlock

[Scott.Smith]

I have an03 2500 4x4, 40,000miles. For the last 4,000 miles the front hubs don't always automatically unlock. Truck pulls when turning as it would in 4wd, but transfer case is definetly working and it is NOT in 4wd. 2wd to 4wd works like it should. If it makes a difference, it's a Laramie. What to look for?

 

[Delta King]

Not for sure if this helps but... . I ALWAYS BACK UP at least 30 feet after I shift back into 2 high. I have never read this about the Dodge Ram, however I did at one time own a mid 80's Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 w/ automatic hubs. This was the protocal to unlock the automatic hubs. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=1330823#

Wink

 

[Delta King]

Not for sure if this helps but... . I ALWAYS BACK UP at least 30 feet after I shift back into 2 high. I have never read this about the Dodge Ram, however I did at one time own a mid 80's Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 w/ automatic hubs. This was the protocal to unlock the automatic hubs.

 

[Slow Six]

You do not have hubs. The front axles turn all the time. The transfer case engages when you shift into 4WD. I think what you are describing is a wheel joint or as some call it an axle joint is gone. I just changed both of mine last week. The truck felt as though it was in 4WD especially when the wheels began to straighten after a turn. When I jacked the front end and turned the wheels it was almost impossible to turn the tire as the u joint was binding so bad. My 2 cents worth would be to start at these joints. The Precision # is 464 and they are greasable.

 

[rbattelle]

Not for sure if this helps but... . I ALWAYS BACK UP at least 30 feet after I shift back into 2 high. I have never read this about the Dodge Ram, however I did at one time own a mid 80's Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 w/ automatic hubs. This was the protocal to unlock the automatic hubs.

This procedure is only for automatic locking hubs. I don't believe it will do anything at all on a vehicle with manual or non-existant hubs. The reason Chevy (and others) told you to do this is because the old auto-locking hubs used a simple cam that monitored the difference in rotational speed between the axle shaft and the wheel. By changing the vehicle direction after the axle shaft was disengaged (by shifting to 2wd), the cam would be unloaded and hence unlock.



That's a pretty stinky description, but it's also a pretty stinky arrangement (in my opinion). I had 1 truck that had auto locking hubs and I replaced them after 1 winter. I used to call auto-locking hubs the "worst invention in the history of 4wd". I stand by that opinion to this day.



But I digress. Slow Six could be right - bad u-joint. It's also possible that the transfer case has a problem and is not actually disengaging when you shift to 2wd. To check this, remove the front driveshaft and see if you can rotate the front drive yoke at the transfer case. If you can, the transfer case is probably fine and a u-joint is the more likely culprit. If you can't, then the t-case is sticking in 4wd and requires service.



-Ryan

 

[DieselNasty]

My dad and I were taking the drive shafts off his 03 beacuse we are putting in his SBDDC. I noticed taking off the front drive shaft that it seemed like the hubs werent unlocked and then looking at the axel it didnt look the same as my 94, I dont even think they have electronic locking hubs just the T-case unlocks.

 

[JasonCzerak]

The one thing I have always liked about the fords

Manual locking hubs... ... . Curios as to the fuel millage increase of this features on dodges. not to mention 1/4 mile ETA's. Heck with my 93' XJ the butt dyno was higher with out the front drive shaft connected.

 

[rbattelle]

So we're all on the same page...

As of 2003 the Dodge front axle has NO traditional front hubs in relation to the 4wd system. There is no axle disconnect, and there are no "hubs" that could be defined as having the primary purpose of disconnecting the front axles from the wheels.



When in 2wd the following components continue to rotate with the front wheels:

-both axle shafts

-the front differential (including spider, side gears, ring gear, and pinion)

-the front driveshaft



Disengagement amounts to disengaging dogs (or is it a splined sleeve?) that link the front output shaft of the transfer case to the chain drive inside the case.



This is different than 2nd gen trucks. I'm not sure what arrangement is used on 1st gen trucks.



-Ryan

 

[Scott.Smith]

I've checked all the joints, and all are in great shape. Wheel spins freely when jacked up. I am positive it's in 2wd when it pulls while turning (like it would be in 4wd) Thanks for the suggestions

 

[rbattelle]

I've checked all the joints, and all are in great shape. Wheel spins freely when jacked up. I am positive it's in 2wd when it pulls while turning (like it would be in 4wd) Thanks for the suggestions

If the joints are fine, wheel spins freely, transfer case works fine, what else is there? Could be brakes, could be something wrong with the front spider or side gears.



-Ryan

 

[strokerschmoker]

I have to agree with slow six. Mine had the exact same syptoms as you discribed. Look to see if there is a coat of surface rust around the area of the axle joint. I had no problem with the wheel spin freely. How i checked it was to jack up the front end and rotate the axle a 1/4 turn at a time then try and manually steer the tire left and right. (not using the steering wheel). If the joint is binding up two of the four time you move the wheel it should be tighter then the other two.

 

[JStieger]

I've checked all the joints, and all are in great shape. Wheel spins freely when jacked up. I am positive it's in 2wd when it pulls while turning (like it would be in 4wd) Thanks for the suggestions

The past few weeks I had the same symptoms on my truck. It got so bad that I couldn't drive over 55 and it sounded like a helicopter under my truck. The front end u-joints all looked fine with truck jacked up and me twisting and turning everything. Then I pulled the front driveshaft this past Friday after some advice from here and the FUBARed u-joint on the CV was pretty obvious. I would pull the driveshaft and inspect it. Then drive without it and see if you are getting the same symptons. Start with the cheapest and easiest and go from there.



I have the driveshaft with new, greasable u-joints in the back of my truck now - just waiting for some daylight to install it.

 

[War Nerve]

It's the front axle u-joints. If you are spinning the tire while it is pointing straight ahead than even a COMPLETELY seized u-joint will rotate freely. You must turn the wheel to full lock and than spin it. If you are in 2wd and getting feedback through the steering wheel while turning it's the axle u-joints. Jack the truck up, turn the wheel, spin the tire and check it.



Chuck

 

[steved]

It's the front axle u-joints. If you are spinning the tire while it is pointing straight ahead than even a COMPLETELY seized u-joint will rotate freely. You must turn the wheel to full lock and than spin it. If you are in 2wd and getting feedback through the steering wheel while turning it's the axle u-joints. Jack the truck up, turn the wheel, spin the tire and check it.



Chuck

I agree 100%.



steved

 

[War Nerve]

I agree 100%.



steved

Shoemakersville. You're right up 78 from me. Somebody actually agrees with me and they're from PA. Hell, I'm buyin' a Powerball ticket tonight



Chuck

 

[Scott.Smith]

Thanks everyone. Sounds like u-joints. Will tear into it this weekend.

 

[Scott.Smith]

Jacked up front end, and at full turn, one joint works and the other side binds. Also found one cap slightly loose on cv joint. Driveshaft looks simple to change. Front u-joints-are they simple or do I need special tools? Thanks for the help

 

[steved]

Shoemakersville. You're right up 78 from me. Somebody actually agrees with me and they're from PA. Hell, I'm buyin' a Powerball ticket tonight



Chuck

:-laf



steved

 

[steved]

Jacked up front end, and at full turn, one joint works and the other side binds. Also found one cap slightly loose on cv joint. Driveshaft looks simple to change. Front u-joints-are they simple or do I need special tools? Thanks for the help

You will need to press (or have pressed) the old ujoints out and the new ujoints in... if you can get it that far apart, then you could take it to a garage or machine shop to have the press work done... save you some $$ in labor.



steved

 

[JStieger]

You will need to press (or have pressed) the old ujoints out and the new ujoints in... if you can get it that far apart, then you could take it to a garage or machine shop to have the press work done... save you some $$ in labor.



steved

The u-joint on my front d/s nearest the axle pinion yoke was staked in with nylon rather than clips and needed to be melted out. The u-joints on the CV were retained with normal clips.



I read on DTR where a few fellows replaced the axle shaft joints without pulling the wheel unitized hubs. They just used a press to pull the u-joints with the wheels cranked all the way to one direction. I might have to try this after originally planning on pulling the wheel unit hubs etc.