Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Front main seal

[bowhunter]

It looks like its time to put in a new front main seal. Oil is everywhere... .



How big of a job is it? Anyone done this themselves in their garage? Or has anyone paid to this done at the shop? if so, how much di it cost?



I fixed my KDP with the jig, instead of taking the timing cover off, so I'm not too sure how big of a job it is to get the old seal out and the new one back in.



Anyone have any tips or suggestions?



Thanks

 

[rdrose]

not to bad

make sure you mark your balancer prior to removal. when you get your kit there will be a third gasket in there that the direction don't mention its a dust cover and goes on last,goes on a certain why can't remember which way. that seal is a bit*h the best way is to do is to pull the seal off with some self tapping screws and pull it off that way,the install can be tricky. clean the crank really good then the cover and then put on some loctite on the outside of the seal and get it started straight as possible,once its seated a little put the installation tool on the crank and then use your balancer to push it on straight, it is easier with two people. have one person hold the installation tool on the seal as you put on the balancer. what for fingers there's not to much. once the balancer is all the way seated take it back off and finish tapping the installation tool down until it bottoms out on the cover. enjoy

 

[GOODE11]

rd rose,



Why should one mark the vibration damper before removal? I was told, by Cummins it wasn't necessary.

The reason I'm asking is I have mine apart right now for a front crank seal and didn't mark it.

Its going be apart for awhile, Cummins gave me the wrong front cover gasket so I have to go back!



bowhunter,

my front cover gasket keeps giving out right below the front crank seal. I pull the front case cover to do it anyways so I put in both when apart.



Thanks



GOODE11

 

[bowhunter]

I think front cover gasket gave out right under the front seal too. Way too much oil for just the front seal... It looks like I'll be tearing into it after deer season.



While I'm at it, I'll go ahead and fix the seal between the vacuum pump and powersteering pump.



Thanks for the help

 

[Joe G.]

GOODE11,



The reason for marking the crank pully position is if you have marked on it where TDC is. The pully can go on four different ways because the screw holes are evenly spaced.



Here is a little tip for getting the gear case cover on straight. Get a couple of long screws that fit the holes for the gear case screws. Cut the heads of these screws and use them for alignment pins in the upper mounting holes for the cover.

 

[jdub]

The seal can be pressed in with a drill press chuck and a block of wood a little larger than the seal itself. I t goes in very smoothly!

 

[Bob Horrell]

If you are replacing the seal with the cover still on the motor, drive the motor to get it and the cover warm just before removing the old seal and put the new seal in the freezer. If the cover is off, heat it to about 200 degrees in the oven and put the seal in the freezer. This makes what can be a real PITA a relatively easy install. When doing my KDP tab, I tried installing the seal in the cover and after about 15 minutes of fighting it I did the heat and freeze treatment and it went right in.

 

[rhoads]

seal instalation

Front seal is installed from the back side of the cover with a jig to get it to the correct depth And will be done by most cummins (mother company's) at no charge. . after instalation rotate crank shaft min 360 deg installed to a dry shaft , AND if there is a wear grove install the speedy sleeve!!!!There is a seal ... --and a seal w/speedy sleeve kit . . if you ve got a grove on the shaft use the later. .

 

[Matt42]

If you remove the timing case cover, you will also need a new gasket for that. Cummins sells an RTV gray silicone sealant, which I used successfully, (The staff at Cummins SW in Phoenix called it "gray goo. ")



To keep the case cover from leaking, it is vital to fully remove all the old gasket bits from both surfaces. Then clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner. Then re-clean the surfaces--twice--with denatured alcohol.



RTV Silicone won't stick to surfaces coated with residual oil and other petroleum distillates. Lacquer thinner can be thought of as "00W-00 non detergent oil. "



Once I started cleaning surfaces with alcohol, I have not had a single leak. I was even able to seal the infamous AMC/Jeep 258 six valve cover that way.