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Front & Rear Diff, What fluid?

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ball joints and Dynatrac...oh my...

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Your right. I'll just keep replacing ujoints, ball joints and the golden Syn fluid every 15k and like it. Those unit bearings were the cats meow too!



The D60, swapped from truck to truck, with 2x the miles, including rock crawling, trail running, snow plowing etc. , that has only required upper bushings and still has the original wheel ujoints... . well... . just doesn't hold a candle to these AAM beauties :cool:



Sorry, I don't know what I was thinking! ;)



YMMV
 
Over-filling Axles as With Mag-Hytec Covers???

With the Mag-Hytec rear axle cover, you can over-fill by 7/8" to 1-1/4" per the dipstick.



Mag-Hytec told me that this was a safe practice & they have not had any customer complaints.



Anyone have any thoughts regarding this practice? The article Amsoilman posted indicated that the manufacturers were lowering the levels for less drag on the gearing for better fuel mileage. If one didn't mind sacrificing a small amount of mileage for better lubrication & cooling of fluid, would you be doing any damage to the rearend by over-filling?



Thanks.



Joe F.
 
Joe:



I have been running 1. 5" overfilled for better than 80k... while my pinion is leaking, it is related to a worn pinion flange and not the overfill (the pinion is flooded with a normal fill). The fill is high enough that I believe the axle tubes actually have oil in them (flooded).



I have posted my best mileages running overfilled and with 85w140... I don't feel it makes any significant difference in these trucks.



FYI, I run an ORU cover and have over 9 quarts of oil in there.
 
Tkarnas, you should consider the Valvoline SynPower full synthetic. Much less spendy that the Amsoil, RedLine, Royal Purple, etc. , oils.

I read a gear oil study, sponsored by Amsoil, and it came in VERY close, but at less that half the cost. Then you can change it at the specified intervals (assuming you believe Dodge, or on the longer GM interval) and feel good about draining out the contaminants rather than having to run the extended drain intervals to feel like you are getting your money's worth with the designer oils.
 
Tkarnas, you should consider the Valvoline SynPower full synthetic. Much less spendy that the Amsoil, RedLine, Royal Purple, etc. , oils.



I read a gear oil study, sponsored by Amsoil, and it came in VERY close, but at less that half the cost. Then you can change it at the specified intervals (assuming you believe Dodge, or on the longer GM interval) and feel good about draining out the contaminants rather than having to run the extended drain intervals to feel like you are getting your money's worth with the designer oils.

You think a spread between 99 and 38 points is close! You need to look at the whole picture.
 
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Quick question here--

Would there be any problems running Scaheffer Synthetic #167 gear lube in the AAM diffs. It does meet GL5 specs, but it is a 75-140w lube. I only hear great things about Scaeffers products and would like to use this in my diffs if the heavier weight blend won't be an issue. Whaddya think- TIA
 
Quick question here--



Would there be any problems running Scaheffer Synthetic #167 gear lube in the AAM diffs. It does meet GL5 specs, but it is a 75-140w lube. I only hear great things about Scaeffers products and would like to use this in my diffs if the heavier weight blend won't be an issue. Whaddya think- TIA



Probably no issues, but its not necessary, per AAM, unless you tow at or above GCWR thru Death Valley... so you may incur worse mileage from it being thicker... but thats the only thing it should effect.
 
Probably no issues, but its not necessary, per AAM, unless you tow at or above GCWR thru Death Valley... so you may incur worse mileage from it being thicker... but thats the only thing it should effect.



That's interesting, hadn't thought about that; Still, I'll see if Shaeffers makes a gear lube closer to a 75-90w.
 
I run Valvoline Synthetic 75/140 in the rear and 75/110 in the front with Mag-Hytec covers on both for added capacity. I might have been tempted to run Amzoil or Red-Line but its not readily available at the local parts stores. The Valvoline is available everywhere. I tow some heavy loads from time to time and it gets down right HOT here in Texas during the summer.

I know the 140 is a little overkill and probably has more parasitic drag that can kill some MPG, but if you let the smoke out of a differential the fifty cents you saved on fuel per tank really becomes a mute point.
 
I run the Valvoline regular oil. I change my at 25. 000 miles. That way I check it when it comes out. So if something is going bad I will catch it. You can send it in to Blackstone lab to have it checked. They will tell you how it is holding up. I have a temp gage that i can look at when I am running hard with my fifth wheel. Yes it will get hot when running hard.
 
I just wish Dodge used the same AAM housing as GM. I like the drain plug feature in the bottom rather than taking the cover off.
 
I just wish Dodge used the same AAM housing as GM. I like the drain plug feature in the bottom rather than taking the cover off.



Well GM doesn't require as long lasting components, so I'll take the cover without a hole on a DC spec axle... Besides thats just another benefit to the mag-hytec cover.
 
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