2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission front rotor removal

[JCyrbok]

I have 2001 2500 4x4. What is involved in removing the front rotors for replacement? I had a 97 1500 2wd and the rotors had the hubs in them, so every time they were replaced u had to do bearings, etc. It it the same on my truck? Or do the rotors just slip off of the hubs and studs and new one slip on. It could not be that easy with my luck! LOL. Any special tools involved?



ALso when I get to this point ( brake pads and rotors) is there any other maintenance that I should do to the calipers,hubs etc for longer use?



Thanks

J-

 

[lawdog]

I have a 2000 2500 4x4 and it is pretty much that easy.

You need a large torx bit to remove the caliper T-45 or T-47, I do not remember which. Then you need a 12 point 16mm socket to remove the caliper brackets. the rotors should then slide off... . A breaker bar helps as well for the 16mm socket.

 

[JCyrbok]

Cool Thanks lawdog. Hopefully its that easy on the 2001. I have poor luck though!!!LOL





I assume that u r Police? Be careful out there. I am Police too ad I have a feeling with all the state budget cuts, the next couple of years are going to be interesting, to say the least.



Be safe and have fun!.



J-

 

[snowracer69]

Is it really that easy guys? I'll be doing mine on weds or thursday of this week, whenever my ART cryo treated rotors get here. Have been into the rotor on the passenger side for about two weeks now... . am tired of the grinding noise.

 

[LHGeorge]

I am missing something. My 1994 2500 4X4 has to have the front axles removed to take the rotors off the back side. Pull the wheels, pull the calipers, and then use a 12 point socket to remove the hub and axle from the steering hub. The rotor can then come off the back. I may have some terminology crossed up but the idea it there. Have I missed something?

 

[Thomas]

I am missing something. . .

You're missing the design change that occurred model year 2000. Rotor R&R got a lot easier.

 

[snowracer69]

I have found on another forum that I also need to remove the axle nut... just the nut though, and then the rotors will come off on my 2001 4x4.



Will let you know after I do it... there will be lots of pics of the carnage on my current stock rotors... they are trashed now.

 

[JGK]

While I haven't had the "fun" of replacing rotors on mine (but will soon), I watched a friend do his a few weeks ago on his '98. The right side was fairly easy. The left side was a bi... booger.



On the right side, after removing the big nut and bolts that hold the hub/rotor assembly to the steering knuckle, he just tapped on the rotor with a hammer and popped it loose. The rotor and hub/bearing assembly is held together with 4 of the wheel studs, as I remember. Those have to be pounded out to separate the two.



On the driver's side, he ended up using a puller but managed to separate the bearing! The back half stayed in the knuckle. Too much rust and corrosion. Eventually he got it apart. But it cost him a new bearing.



One suggestion to pop the hub out is to back the 12 point bolts out part way, then get a short piece of steel rod or some such. Put it between the head of the bolt and some convenient part of the frame or suspension. Start the truck and turn the wheel to use the power steering to push on the bolt head to push the hub loose (each bolt head a little at a time). Sort of a built-in hydraulic press! You'll need two people and make sure the parking brake is set and rear wheels blocked.



Might also soak things down with PB Blaster a few days before you tackle this job.



Jay

 

[InThinAir]

Lawdog is right on... Done it on mine. T-45 is the size to remove the caliper. Then a 12 point socket with a breaker bar is in order to remove the caliper bracket. After you remove the torx and the little retaining clips on the studs the rotor is completely loose. The 12 point, can't remember the size, could be 16mm, was the smallest 1/2" drive I had which was lucky, since it takes a ridiculous amount of torque to remove, I bent my box end getting it off first and then moved up to the big tools. I didn't have the torque spec to tighten back up, so I torque to 150ft/lbs.



---Doug

 

[snowracer69]

so, inthinair, are you saying that you DO NOT have to remove the large axle nut? Just the retaining clips off the studs and that's it?



This is in reference to my 2001, as it has already been stated that after 2000 you don't have to remove the entire axle.



Josh

 

[Thomas]

Actually it's after 1999. Beginning model year 2000 the front disk is mounted outboard of the front hub-bearing assembly. Look about half-way down this page on the great Dave Fritz site.

 

[enes]

Yes, 2k and 2k1 should have identical front brakes if i remember right.

Calipers are held in by the two t45 torqs . . and the biger bracket i used 5/8 12 point because it was a tighter fit than 16mm. I just changed mine without a problem, just make sure you bleed them otherwise they will be super mushy.



-E

 

[snowracer69]

will be bleeding a lot, trying to replace the majority of the brake fluid in the front lines. Packages w/ my new rotors and pads were shipped this morning. Watch for a post by me, probably thursday, to see the pics of this new fangled setup. If you ever read the ford forums, you'll notice that EVERYONE who has the ART rotors loves them, and Pad is telling me that mine look better than all the rest. He might be a salesman though!