2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front rotors replacement, 99 2500 4x4 - HUB assy too??

[BK]

CReinhardt, no problem , and not hijacking... .

The issue with using the gear puller is that it can separate the front part of hub bearing assy from it's rear.

The FSM recommends backing out the 4 14mm bolts, and with a center punch of sorts, banging on the those bolts to beat out the bearing, if trying to save it.

Did you get the Axle nut off?

Shoot PB blaster between the rotor and shield, and on the back of the knuckle as well.
I shot it in there about every 6-8 hrs, except when sleeping.

 

[David411]

I had to pull my axle shafts in order to change u joints. Drivers side was completely seized.
Any tips when re installing shafts as to not damage the seals?

 

[CReinhardt]

Bob, I'm actually going to change the hub out as the bearings are shot. The upper and lower ball joints are bad also so I'm going to change them out as well. Is it possible to bang out the ball joints then take the whole assembly and use a press to push the shaft through the hub? I know that sounds a little far out but just wondering.

 

[CReinhardt]

Oh yeah, by the way, I have been shooting that PB blaster penetrating fluid at it for a few days and yes I got the nut off with the help of a 3 foot cheater bar.

 

[BK]

CReinhardt,

I read a thread where one member took his sawsall, and cut the ball joints' studs off, removed the whole knuckle assembly and took it to a press and had the hub bearing and ball joints pressed off.

Since you not going to save the bearing, it's an option to use a puller. Keep blasting away with the PB, and get a puller, and give it a whirl.

Again, sorry to ask , but just to be sure, you did get the axle nut off? If that's not off 1st, there is no way your getting the hub bearing off. And soak the splines with BP too.

 

[BK]

I had to pull my axle shafts in order to change u joints. Drivers side was completely seized.

Any tips when re installing shafts as to not damage the seals?

Dave I haven't had to pull my axles...

Maybe Dave M will see this and chime in, he's had to do it.

If Dave M doesn't see this, then PM him.

Sorry I don't have a suggestion for you.

But darn good question.

I'm looking forward to answers, for my own education.

 

[CReinhardt]

Hmmm. I will consider the sawzall method as a last resort. Yeah, I didn't have nearly the problems removing the nut. Just a three foot cheater extension and a lot of jumping up and down on it then crack!! No problem.

 

[BK]

may be give the powersteering methode another try since you've gotten more PB blaster in there.
When I 1st tried it, it didn't work, still I go the angle right and worked off the inner part of the C. You can also try the long bolt variation... . get some grade 8" that you can thread in, instead of the extension. The Grade 8 wont deflect like the extension.

 

[Newf Limo]

The mechanic had to junk my left front hub in order to replace ball joints. He just could not get the hub off on that side. A brand new one from NAPA (top of the line model) was installed. It lasted less than 30k miles. The new one was installed and I bick up the truck today. The right side is original and still going fine.



Wifes Dakota, original hubs lasted 140K +/- and both replacement hubs have been replaced at less than 20K miles and the left was replaced for a second time a month ago. The right is growling away but we are milking it for all it is worth, which isn't a hell of a lot!



Lesson? If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

 

[Dave M]

Dave,



If you pulled the both axles I don't know how to prevent damaging the seals. There are 2 problems with putting the axles back in.



The first is the axle housing will have sand and dirt in it and if the end of shaft hits the bottom of housing as you insert the axle it will drag dirt into the seal. So I'd try to clean out the housing with broom handle with shop towels or rags soaked in brake cleaner and try not to push anything into seal... . hard to know if you do.



The second problem is as the axle shaft is inserted it may not hit the seal square in the middle and may damage it by bumping it and tearing the seal. Those outer axles (drivers side and outboard passenger side) may weigh 30 lbs so it is not as easy as it sounds to insert without dragging the bottom of housing. This can happen even if you put new seals in but the new rubber is more springy and the old will be hardened.



The drivers side seal is in the differential. Clean that housing as best you can and insert the axle trying to keep it tilted up so not to drag along the bottom of housing where the dirt will be. The directions from Quad 4x4 showed inserting a looong pry bar under the axle housing as the axle is inserted and use it to pry the axle up as it is inserted. I had no luck doing that with the pry bars I had so I just crossed my fingers and inserted the axle.



The passenger side axle seal is in the outboard side of the CAD (Central Axle Disconnect) in the axle housing. Here you could remove the 4 bolts holding the CAD housing onto the axle housing, pull it off and now you have access to the passenger side axle housing from inside. Then you could really clean the axle housing using brake cleaner squirting from the CAD hole out into the axle housing and really get it clean. Then you could at least see a bit of the axle shaft as it is inserted. Or just do the same thing as other side of housing and clean as best you can without removing the CAD.



There is a beveled collar inside the CAD that must be installed properly for the 4x4 position to work. If you pull the CAD housing you can verify it is inserted properly. I may have a few pics to post for you later today to show the CAD side and how the bevelled collar works.



If it was me I'd pull the CAD and do all the cleaning and hope for the best. If drivers side leaks you will be pulling both sides apart like I did and replace both seals. If passenger side leaks you just deal with the CAD housing and not the Diff and replace just the passenger side seal.



Dave

 

[Dave M]

Some pics of the CAD side of axle housing:



First pic the intermediate shaft is on left and to right is the bevelled collar and to right is the passenger outboad axle shaft that you removed. These pieces all are under the CAD housing/cover. Normally when not in 4x4 the collar is splined onto the outer axle shaft only (the right axle shaft in the pics)... the left axle shaft is not connected to the right axle shaft in 2wd. With transfer case in 4x4 (4H or 4L)the splined collar is slid to the left and engages the intermediate shaft (along with the right axle shaft) so both shafts will now turn together connecting thru the diff and thru to the transfer case and you are in 4x4.



2nd pics shows thw same thing with the CAD housing in view also.



3rd pic shows the CAD housing removed from axle housing and all axles removed. To the right is where the passenger side axle seal is and where the right outer axle is inserted into.



Bottom pic shows the bevelled collar. The bevel is always toward the right side passenger axle in the CAD housing.



Edit: Another thought: When you insert the axles don't put any grease on the splined end or it will collect dirt. Insert them dry. If you were doing the seals too, then the grease would be applied to the seal rubber lip not the axle. If you do not pull the CAD housing then you need to rotate the shaft as you insert it to align the splines with the bevelled collar. This would probably work.



You can test the axle is inserted properly into the bevelled collar when you're all done by turning the engine on (so you have vacuum)... put it in 4x4. . then turn engine off. With drivers side wheel on ground and passenger side jacked up try to spin passenger side tire. If 4x4 is engaged you won't be able to spin the passenger side wheel because the drivers side wheel is on ground and all the axles are tied together... that would indicate 4x4 is working properly. Then do the same with 4x4 off (transfer case in 2WD). The passenger side wheel should now spin because the axles are disengaged in the CAD housing. If either test fails then you need to pull CAD cover and check what is wrong but first make sure the vacuum lines are connected properly.



Dave

 

[KYOUNG]

I used a gear puller on my 94 once, it worked alright, it was really rusted on there!!

 

[CReinhardt]

Didn't have a chance to get to the truck today with everyone wanting something, but, my plan is this: continue with the penetrant every 8 hours and try the steering method again. If that does not work, I have a gear puller that I brought home from work. If that does not work, there is a much larger gear puller at work and since it really doesn't matter what damage I do to the worn out bearings, I will use a little heat. On the chance that that does not work... sledge hammer... in which case I will probably be doing more work I hadn't bargained for. I will let you all know how it goes and if my solution is unique, post some pictures. Thanks again for the excellent advice Bob.