Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Front Seal in Rear Diff leaking

[KennyM]

OK guys I need some advice.



1: Front seal P/N / and best place to get it.

2: Correct lube and amount to use for Dana 80.

3: I could use info on what to look out for when I am doing this. I have never had to replace seals before.



Thanks for any help.



Ken

 

[dmurdock]

replacing the seal is pretty easy, getting that nut loose on the yolk will try your soul... Find a monster cheater bar (I used a chain link fence pole). The fluid amounts are in the owners manual...

 

[KennyM]

dmurdock, Thanks for your input. I have gone through my manual cover to cover. It never mentions Diff fluid level.



Also to add to this Dodge wants $19. 00 for a quart of diff fluid, which seems kind of steep, and they do not have the seal in stock. I was thinking maybe NAPA would have a diff seal but would like to have a P/N when I go in. Thanks Ken

 

[Al Mendes]

rear end seal

Kenny, I hope this helps the part # from DODGE is 477327 maybe you can use this # to cross reference. Al Mendes

 

[dan_gilson]

I have never been able to get that darn nut off with a big bar. The nice thing is that it got me my 1/2" impact wrench.



Make sure that you check the Yoke. If pitted replace it and it is $$$. If you use a pitted yoke it will just leak again.



I think the stock fluid about is 4Qt but please verify with Owner's manual.



If limited slip Diff, remember to get the proper amount of friction modifier. Otherwise your posi will start making noise.

 

[dmurdock]

I ran thru 80 gallons of air trying to bust that nut... finally a fence pole for leverage and floor jack for power got it loose (although it torqued up without a problem... must've been rust). This was on my previous truck, a 98. 5 (just out of warranty). The mechanic said they were having problems with that seal.



Since it's a dana I'm sure NAPA has it in stock (well, almost sure... if you have my luck, some guy just walked in before you and bought the last 20 they had )





Oh, one more thing. . make sure you have a socket big enough for that nut (it's bigger than it looks).

 

[rrausch]

Not to start a war here, but mine was leaking at about 85,000 miles and I drained the Amsoil out and put regular diff lube in and the leak stopped. The previous owner towed a lot and had put the Amsoil in, but I tow very little and didn't feel I needed it. 112,000 now and no leaking.

 

[GLASMITHS]

What he said

Mine leaked for 54K miles. Changed to Redline, no more leaks

 

[Texas Diesel]

Mine started seeping at 36k and by 40k it stopped.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Seal

Ok Kenny her's mine. The liquid capacities are on page 02 and 03, the lube spec for your rear end is on page 3-127 and is as follows: SAE80-W90 and should conform to Mil-l-205C and API GL5. The capacity for a 2 wheel drive is 6. 81 pts. You can use or may need a gear type puller to remove the yoke to prevent damage by hammering it off. The instructions for seal replacement include: Scribe a reference mark on the u-joint, yoke and pinion shaft for reinstallation in same location. After drive shaft is removed and before yoke is removed, turn the pinion with an INCH pound torque wrench and record the reading for future reference. After the new seal is installed and the yoke is in place, tighten the nut to 440ft. lb. and turn the pinion with the INCH pound torque wrench, reading should be equal to the original reading plus 5 INCH pound, if reading is low tighten nut in 5ft. lb. increments until correct reading is reached. This is on page 3-134. If you don't have the proper tools, many parts places will lend them to you if you put up a security deposit. Have fun. bg

 

[dmurdock]

Yes, you'll need a puller (i borrowed one from auto-zone). I read the part about before and after torque measurement and used that to determine the nut tightness..... Couldn't really find a 400+ ft lb torque wrench anybody was willing to let me borrow...

 

[KennyM]

450 ft, lb. Wow. I quess my 100 inch. lb nut driver wont cut it. Thanks for the input guys.



B. G. Thanks for that procedure, the time it took to look it up and write it. As usual I'm going to bow out and let my Mechanic do it. I was thinking of rounding up the parts this morning, and doing it Sunday. But I'm a little short on time.



This TDR is a great place, Thanks



Ken

 

[C Schomer]

You can also tq. it to 250 ft lbs plus 3/8" measured at a nut corner. Craig