Front Shock Installation tips???

[JPudenz]

Hello all,



I just bought the bilstein 5100's for my truck, got the rears from KORE. I put the rears on last night and the first one took me almost an hour, the second 15-20 minutes after I fiqured out it is a hell of a lot easier to go in under the fender after the liner has been taken out.



I was going to tackle the fronts tonight and thought it might be wise, and a time saver, to ask some of you who have no doubt done this before what the best way is to go about the removal and install...



Any tips would be appreciated.



Best Regards,

 

[Jeff_K]

Undo the top shock nut and rubber grommet. Undo the bolts holting the shock tower in place and remove shock tower. Undo the bottom shock bolt (21mm) and pull out through engine. Do the opposite to install. Its pretty easy, should take you less that 15 minutes each side.

 

[ECappleman]

Let us (me) know how it rides with the Kore and Bilstein shocks.

 

[RTillery]

I did the Bilstein 5100's about a week ago. The front is more difficult than the back, but not too tough. I had to remove the tower from the shock on the drivers side, but was able to take out the passenger side with the tower still on. Reverse to install, but you need something to compress the shock down while you get one of the nuts on the towers started. I used a trekking pole about two feet long and it worked great. You have to lean over the thing to compress it down, weight it with your chest, and reach down to start that nut. I spent the longest time looking for a nut that went down the side of the engine. The phone rang after I had been looking for about five minutes and I spyed the nut outside the tire on the passenger side! How'd it get there????

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

Here it is from the KORE manual. I deleted # 10 because it does not pertain to your situation.



Enjoy,

Greg





1. DISCONNECT BATTERIES.



2. PARK TRUCK ON A CONCRETE OR ASPHALT SURFACE, SET PARKING BRAKE AND CHOCK THE FRONT AND REAR OF BOTH REAR WHEELS.



3. FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE FRONT AXLE HOUSING LIFT FRONT OF TRUCK WITH A LARGE HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK UNTIL BOTH TIRES ARE WELL OFF THE GROUND.



4. SUPPORT FRAME WITH JACK STANDS PLACED ON THE FLAT PART OF FRAME IMMEDIATELY BEHIND LOWER CONTROL ARMS (“RADIUS ARMS”).



5. MAKE SURE WEIGHT OF TRUCK REMAINS ON FRAME BUT KEEP AXLE SUPPORTED BY FLOOR JACK.



6. REMOVE FRONT WHEELS.



7. REMOVE PLASTIC SPLASH GUARDS FROM UNDER FENDERWELLS.



8. TO ACCESS PASSENGER SIDE UPPER SHOCK MOUNT, REMOVE AIRBOX.



9. REMOVE NUTS FROM BASE OF UPPER SHOCK MOUNTS.



11. REMOVE BOTTOM SHOCK MOUNT BOLTS.



12. PULL SHOCK BRACKETS AND SHOCKS UP AND OUT OF TRUCK.

 

[JPudenz]

Remove the front wheels?

I did not get around to the shocks last night, I was planning for this afternoon now.



I am very surprised to see that I am suppose to remove the front wheels. It seems like there is plenty of clearence around the tire to get in there.



Is this really a requirement?



Also thanks for the replies guys, they are really appreciated.



JJ Pudenz

 

[Jeff_K]

Again, this time from the factory service manual.....



Removal

1. Remove the nut, retainer and grommet from upper stud in the engine compartment.

2. Remove three nuts from the upper shock bracket.

3. Remove the lower bolt from the axle bracket. Remove the shock from engine compartment.



Installation

1. Position the lower retainer and grommet on the upper stud. Insert the shock through the spring from engine compartment.

2. Install the lower bolt and tighten to 100ft-lbs.

3. Install the upper shock bracket and three nuts. Tighten to 55ft-lbs.

4. install upper grommet and retainer. Install upper shock nut and tighten to 35ft-lbs.

 

[RTillery]

Jeff is right, there is no need to pull the front wheels or liners. The only thing the factory manual does not talk about: these are gas shocks that extend out to their travel limit when you cut the strap off. If you are lucky, they might stick in the collapsed position until you move/twist them but most likely they are going to pop to their full length. Therefore you must have a way to compress them after you put the tower on the stud and they are bolted down on the bottom. I used my short treking pole (an ajustable length ski pole) but you could use a piece of pipe, sawed off broom handle, etc. to push the shock/tower down into position. I did both sides in about 45 minutes but could probably beat 30 now that I know what to do. Good luck!