2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission front shock replacement

[sg5054]

I am going to change my front shocks today (98. 5, 4wd). It appears that the tower holding the upper end is removed to gain access. Is this correct? I thought I remeber seeing a thread somewhere that discussed this but I can't seem to find it? Can anyone help?

 

[Rattler]

You are right, 3 bolts to take out upper tower and remove -replace shock from top. Easy repair,air tools help.

 

[sg5054]

Thanks Rattler, Guess I'll finish my coffee and get on with this.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

The driver's side tower may not come all the way out easily; you can move it to the side for access. If you are unlucky, the lower bracket may be crimped tight to the sleeve in the shock's lower bushing because the bolt was overtightened. Then you have a hassle driving the shock upward, instead of it sliding out easily.

 

[nutter3]

sq5054, what shocks are you replacing them with? I need to order a set of shocks all around for my 2500, '00.

Let me know how it goes.

Andre

 

[TMills]

How would you know when to replace the shocks? On previous cars and trucks, I would just bounce real hard and see how many times it would go up and down. I sure can't do this with my truck.

 

[sg5054]

I use the truck for work and when I was down in Mass the roads around Boston are not what one would call smooth. Darting and jumping around a bit when you hit the expansion joints and potholes especially on the curves made it pretty clear they weren't working all that well. I would suspect 50K on the OEMs they would be all done. I do mostly highway driving so I went longer but now realize I should have changed them sooner.

I went with the Bilsteins, BE5-2549 (F) and BE5-2550 (R) with a Rancho RS5000 for the stabilizer from ORW. All told it cost 286. 91 with freight(12. 00). The right side is easy. The left side is a pain in the butt. I have ABS so all that plumbing is directly above it. You have to get the shock tower off first but the shock keeps extending so push it down and then scramble to get the tower off before it comes back up. It may take a couple of practice runs and watch your fingers/hand. Extended the shock is too long so push it back down and then try to work through the wires and plumbing while it extends. Again a few practice runs. Compress the new shock and remove the compression strap. Install the large dia washer that came in the kit and reinstall the compression strap. Work the shock back into place and secure the bottom mount. I took a long (24") extension and compressed the shock until I could get the lg washer to catch under the edge of the upper coil spring mount. With it held there you have plenty of room to replace the tower and bolt it down. Then reach through the coil and pull the shock free. Aim it for the hole in the bushing as it extends. Then finish the top and your done. Not so bad all in all but still a pain with all the plumbing and harnesses.

The truck rides great!! Now for a set of new snow tires and I should be set for the winter (I hope)

Scott

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

The trick on the shocks sg is to use a zip tie or safety wire to keep them compressed - then you just cut it when you want it to expand.