2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front shock replacement

[WyattEarp]

I have the new shocks, any problems or precautions i need to take while doing this, silly but never changed shocks on a truck so no need for spring compressor or worry about eating a flying projectile from shocks.

I have the Haynes Manual and it shows the breakdown really well. . Just curious before i start...

Thanks guys Oo.

 

[nps]

Should be a piece of cake. No compressor required - just remove the 3 tower bolts and loosen the shock top and bottom. Remove the airbox on pass side. Drivers side can be a little trickey to thread past the lines but can be done.

 

[WyattEarp]

nps,

I do appreciate the info, i figured that was all there was to do but wanted to make sure before proceeding with it, I also picked up my replacement sway bar link kits today and will be doing that, if anyone hasn't checked there as of yet you might want to, the Moog kit seems to be alot beefier and also has grease jerks, i also found out that Moog now has upper and lower ball joints out for the 2000 model year if anyone was curious, finally parts with grease fittings Oo.

 

[amnewsom]

where did you PU your Moog links? Do you have a P/N

 

[tgbol]

Moog Automotive parts has been bought by Federal Mogul.

for the 00-02 trucks part numbers are Upper K7394 and Lower K7397

They also have one that allows more adjustment Upper K7396 and Lower K7407

the track arm is ds1413













View: Federal-Mogul Full



Vehicle: 2001 DODGE TRUCK RAM 2500 PICKUP 6-360 5. 9L Dsl



Lookup Type: Group - Suspension Parts



Part Description Part Number Years Qty Per



MOOG

Upper Ball Joint

w/DANA 60 AXLE K7394 00-02 2

Upper Ball Joint

w/DANA 60 - ADJUSTABLE BALL JOINT - ALLOWS UP TO 1 DEGREE CAMBER ADJUSTMENT K7396 00-02 2

Lower Ball Joint

w/DANA 60 AXLE K7397 00-02 2

Lower Ball Joint

LIGHT DUTY AXLE - ADJUSTABLE BALL JOINT - ALLOWS UP TO 1 DEGREE CAMBER/CASTER ADJUSTMENT K7407 00-01 2

Sway Bar Link/Kit

REAR SUSPENSION K7371 94-02 1

Sway Bar Repair Kit K7300 98-02 1

Sway Bar Frame Bushing/Kit

w/28MM BAR K7351 94-02 1

Sway Bar Frame Bushing/Kit

w/30MM BAR K7352 94-02 1

Sway Bar Frame Bushing/Kit

w/32MM BAR K7353 96-02 1

Sway Bar Frame Bushing/Kit

w/34. 5MM BAR K7354 94-02 1

Track Arm DS1413 00-02 1

Track Arm Bushing/Kit

2 PC DESIGN K7382 94-01 1



TRW

Upper Ball Joint

FRONT SUSPENSION

4500LB DANA 60 AXLE 104295 00-02 2

Upper Ball Joint

FRONT SUSPENSION

4500LB DANA 60 AXLE - ADJUSTABLE BALL JOINT ALLOWS UP TO 1 DEGREE CAMBER ADJUSTMENT 104312 00-02 2

Lower Ball Joint

FRONT SUSPENSION

4500LB DANA 60 AXLE 104296 00-02 2

Lower Ball Joint

FRONT SUSPENSION

LIGHT DUTY AXLE - ADJUSTABLE BALL JOINT

ALLOWS UP TO 1 DEGREE CAMBER/CASTER ADJUSTMENT 104311 00-01 2

Sway Bar Link/Kit

FRONT SUSPENSION

COMPLETE KIT - LINK w/STRAIGHT BALL STUD 18134 01-02 2

Sway Bar Link/Kit

REAR SUSPENSION 18278 94-02 1

Sway Bar Repair Kit

FRONT SUSPENSION

LINK w/STRIGHT BALL STUD 18154 98-04 1

Sway Bar Frame Bushing/Kit

REAR SUSPENSION

w/24MM BAR HB1746 94-02 2

Sway Bar Frame Bushing/Kit

REAR SUSPENSION

w/22MM BAR HB1748 94-02 2

Sway Bar Frame Bushing/Kit

FRONT SUSPENSION

w/28MM BAR HB1787 94-02 2

Sway Bar Frame Bushing/Kit

FRONT SUSPENSION

w/30MM BAR HB1788 94-04 2

Sway Bar Frame Bushing/Kit

FRONT SUSPENSION

w/32MM BAR HB1789 94-04 2

Sway Bar Frame Bushing/Kit

FRONT SUSPENSION

w/34. 5MM BAR HB1790 94-02 2

Sway Bar Frame Bushing/Kit

FRONT SUSPENSION

w/33MM OR 34MM BAR HB1821 94-04 2

Track Arm

FRONT SUSPENSION DS1413 95-02 1

Track Arm Bushing/Kit

FRONT SUSPENSION

2 PIECE DESIGN HB1820 95-02 1

Track Arm Bushing/Kit

FRONT SUSPENSION

1 PIECE DESIGN HB1849 95-02 1

 

[WyattEarp]

Front stabilizer bar link kit the number on the box is K7280 take in mind i have a '00 model they were purchased at OReilly's auto parts.

This Part number is what the book showed K7280 there is another number on the right side of box lid under where it says(cont: 1) meaning one kit, that number is 1515011-P, the parts store should have the same book as the place i purchased mine at you should have no problems getting them. If i had a digcam i would take a snapshot, this is very similar to a tie rod ball joint set up, I like it alot better than the stock one's thats under the truck now.

If anything comes up and something isn't right i will repost to let everyone know, take in mine its going to be friday before i can do this as i have to work tonite and tomrrow night, unless i feel giddy tomorrow after i wake up



I made a boo boo, thats not the sway bar, its the front stabilizer bar link kit. For some reason im calling it a sway bar :-laf

 

[rono]

Be sure to tighten the bottom shock bolt to 100 ft. lbs. or you will get a knocking sound when driving.

Ron

 

[WyattEarp]

did the shocks this evening, for sure the drivers side is a pain in the *****. I have to double check that side in the morning as im not sure if i put the rubber grommets in correctly you know you learn as you go, and well the Haynes manual said to tq the top nut only to 35lbs, im scratching my head on that one, i figure i have plenty of torgue on those but can still turn the rubber bushing if i really twist hard so i figure that should be okay we will see, as for the bottom bolt what a pain to get to on the passenger side as as for getting a torque wrench in there, im not sure, i usually use impact sockets with the tq wrench due to the high pressure as to not burst a regular socket, going to check in the morning with tq wrench, but of course they were racheted down good so i don't think there going anywhere, trust me i can put on lug nuts by hand and over torque them.

Do you guys think i might have over done it on the top nut, 35lbs just don't seem alot, if im not mistaken thats the same for the fuel filter cap or close to it and its plastic.

Learning in progress just remember that :-laf before you blast me

HOPE EVERYONE HAS A WONDERFUL 4TH OF JULY Oo.

 

[WyattEarp]

Stabilizer link replacement

Okay as i reported a few days ago i was replacing the swaybar or stabilizer links on the front, you call them which ever you want, anywho i did that today, drivers side went in flawlessly no problems at all

Passengers side well it had to happen, either the bracket thats welded to the axle the hole seemed to have a ridge inside(used round file to clean it up a little) replaced link stud nothing doing still unable to use cotter pin through stud hole with slotted nut, alot closer than the first time, torqued to 70ft lbs. hopefully it won't wiggle loose. . I also ground around the link stud but it still didn't pull up when i put the nut on, so im not sure one or the other is out by just a hair.

The kit for those is K7280 if im not mistake, MOOG with grease zerk... I will post back as to how she drives and rides with new shocks and links on front end. wish me luck



Another thing the top nut where the bushings are, it says torque 27ft lbs, not happening the bushings just keep squishing out from under the metal washer... :-{} <<< me and the instruction paper... even the Haynes manual says the exact same specs. go figure