Front U-Joint part number???

[Bill Littlefield]

Like others out there have posted recently, I too rolled down my window a week ago and heard a clicking sound. Sure enough, the right front U-joint is shot.



I read the links and thanks to those of you who posted info. I'm far from a mechanic but can't stand the thought of going to a dealer. You guys give me enough courage to try it in the driveway.



My first challenge was figuring out what differential I had. I've decided it's a DANA 60 because it has a 60F stamped on it in the lower R when viewed from front of truck. Then I had to figure out if I had a 3500 or 4500 lb axle. According to the tag in the door, I think it's 4500 lbs. The repair manual is not much help with either of these. Someone let me know if I've already screwed up.



Now for the question. Several of you recommended getting a replacement u-joint with zerks from NAPA. Sounded like a good idea. Unfortunately, the NAPA in my neck of the woods says it's not available for the 4500lb axle. He said it is available for the 3500lb axle. Here is the part number he sold me. It's a Spicer by DANA and so is the original equip. The number on the box that looks like a factory number is 5-332X. The number stamped on the part is A4 with 857 below the A4. They had another brand. I think it started with a P. It didn't come with zerks either and they said the Spicer is a better one. What are you guys using?? Tell me if I've gone astray, please.



Tomorrow I'm going to attempt to get this thing apart. After reading the other posts I think I have all the tools but know it will be a challenge. I picked up new ball joints as well and will have to take the assy in to have the old one pressed out and the new ones pressed in. I don't have tools for that and it seems they cost lots of $$$. Hopefully it won't cost much or take long to have it done. NAPA said they could do it in their shop.



Sorry for the long post. Any advice will be appreciated. You guys are going to make a mechanic out of me yet. See my signature for year and model info. If this goes resembly well, I will try the other side. I'd like to get past this so I can add some gauges and then start bombing.

 

[TSielski]

I tried to get Spicer steering u-joints for my 2500 4x4, and could not source them in my neck of the woods. I did though, buy two from Napa, with zerks, made by Precision. Don't have the part number, but the number on the boxes is 374. Napa lists steering u-joints for the 4500 lb axle on their web site as well, with zerks. Important thing about the steering u-joints for the 4500 lb axle is you need u joints with the 1 3/8" cup diameter and a 4 1/8" cross. Steering u joints for the 3500 lb axle are smaller dimensionally. If the Spicer parts you have, are in those dimensions, you're ok

 

[Bill Littlefield]

Will try NAPA again

Thanks TSielski,



I tried NAPA online last night and the sight was having problems. I searched today and may have found the precious part you refer to. The Spicer part I got does have the right dimensions. I'm headed back to NAPA to see if they have a Precision part in stock. I really wanted zerks but if the Spicer is a better part (without zerks) may I should stick with what they sold me.



It's a pain trying to find u-joints on the NAPA online site. You can't use a "-" in a word and I kept finding ball joints. Wish they offered more info online.



Thanks again,



Bill L.

 

[TSielski]

I agree that Spicer probably makes the stoutest u-joints out there. Have read other posts where folks have found the greasable Spicers for the front stub axles, but no one had such a listing around here. On the other hand, really don't think there is such a difference between MAJOR manufacturers, such as Spicer, Neapco, Precision, etc. to make one absolutely preferable over the others. Significant issue is greasable, or not. The sealed, non-greasable units are supposed to be stronger than those with the small grease channels drilled inside, but don't know if the difference is worth bothering about for mostly street duty. I just prefer the greasable units, as any contamination can be forced out with regular maintenance.

 

[Speedo]

Originally posted by TSielski

I agree that Spicer probably makes the stoutest u-joints out there.





The 5-332X is the Spicer number and as you have

have seen they don't come greaseable. See if you

can locate a Neapco 332, it is greaseable and IMO

it is a better u-joint than the Spicer. If anyone

has a question as to the greaseable joint being

weaker, its a moot point, I have broken several

Dana 60 axle shafts and never harmed a u-joint.

 

[Bill Littlefield]

Thanks for the info

Love this site!!!



Thanks you guys for the info. I'm going to keep looking for a greaseable u-joint. If I can't find one locally and someone out there knows where I can order via phone or net, let me know. I'll be happy to pay the shipping to get the right solution. I don't want to have to do this repair again anytime soon. I'll check the local part stores today.



Still trying to rent a puller or slide hammer. Tried Friday and Saturday and rented one of each to try and cover my bases. Both were too small. I have a couple other places to check today. Wish me luck---

 

[danandamy]

There's nothing wrong with the Precision brand u-joints. It's just whatever brand that particualar store wants to sell. Remember that most of your NAPA stores are franchises and the owner sells whichever brand he gets the best deal on. We sell the NAPA brand u joints which are the precision brand. Never had a lick of trouble. If the parts store has a book for them, have them drag it out, it's a real easy book to look stuff up in. I usually look ujoints up in it instead of the computer because it's easier to look them up in the book. If I can help you with part numbers, drop me an email. We're gonna be closed tomorrow but I'd be happy to look them up for you on Thursday.

:edit: Glad I stumbled on this thread. I had assumed that annoying clicking was just the brake pads. Went out and checked mine, now I know it's the joints. Unfortunatly, looks like one of my axle seals is giving it up too, as there was a bit of gear oil present. Can anyone tell me how much trouble the seal replacement is?

 

[Bill Littlefield]

Update - Job Complete

Thanks to all that posted helpful hints. I found good info in old links as well. The job is done. Two new u-joints. Four new ball joints. Took a test drive tonight and it's working great. Now I have to repair the track bar .



I found the NEAPCO 332 Greaseable u-joint at Car Quest auto parts and the Precision greaseable u-joint at NAPA (Second time around ). I'll post the precision number later. I now have one of each.



I also took notes along the way. I'll post with lots of detail in a new thread in a couple days. Hope this way I can give a little back. Us rookie/amateur mechanics need a little more guideance than some of you veterans .



PS I too noticed a little leakage coming from my left front oil seal. I hope it fixes itself. I'll be watching them both for a while. I may need some direction on this repair soon .



Bill