Had some noise the other day. Took to stealership and said I had right bad u-joint and left upper ball joint. 120,XXX. They suggested both u-joints, all 4 ball joints, and both hubs due tho the fact that they will be damaged to unusable point during disassembly. 2,300 bucks to fix. What ya all think.
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Front U-Joints and Ball Joints
- Thread starter Dave04
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Ball joints usually 4hrs labor per side... shop around... local shops (non dealer) will charge around $800. Well worth the money if you don't have the time and tools. Go with MOOG ball joints they have grease zerks and will last longer.
try this site-Dodge 4WD Ram 2500 2007, Moog Suspension Parts.
try this site-Dodge 4WD Ram 2500 2007, Moog Suspension Parts.
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Just did it on my early '04. Front Timken hub bearings $160 each, DANA ball joints $87 each, Precision front u-joints $55 each, installing them in the rain... priceless.
Make sure you have the right tools. Take all input on this site on removing the front hub bearings. If they are not bad, don't replace them. You don't have to destroy them to get them off. They are the first thing removed, so you could replace them later. You just need to push them out of the knuckle then pull them off the axle end (not always easy, you need a good puller and a simple tool, to use the power steering to push the hub out of the knuckle).
Make sure you have the right tools. Take all input on this site on removing the front hub bearings. If they are not bad, don't replace them. You don't have to destroy them to get them off. They are the first thing removed, so you could replace them later. You just need to push them out of the knuckle then pull them off the axle end (not always easy, you need a good puller and a simple tool, to use the power steering to push the hub out of the knuckle).
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not sure but I will guess that indiana has enough moisture around to rust the hubs in pretty good. Our so cal trucks even get some rust when it comes to the hub beasring. So far the Alaskan trucks are the worst I have had to work on with Canadians right behind.
It will be a fun job I am sure. I Would steer clear of MOOG they are not what they used to be and don't last long from what I see . I would go with a premium ball joint if you plan on keeping the truck. The axle shaft u-joints are a toss up,the oem hold up just fine for most people.
It will be a fun job I am sure. I Would steer clear of MOOG they are not what they used to be and don't last long from what I see . I would go with a premium ball joint if you plan on keeping the truck. The axle shaft u-joints are a toss up,the oem hold up just fine for most people.
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ool-must-have.html?highlight=hub+bearing+tool
You need a good ball joint press set. My hub nut was 1+11/16" (I think it's actually metric. the 1+11/16 will be tight. That's good if you're using a rattle gun. ) I had to buy a socket. It will be a 3/4' drive. I have an 1/2" drive IR Thunder Gun. with a 3/4" to 1/2" drive adapter I was able to bust it loose. A 3/4" drive breaker bar would probably be better if there is a lot of rust. Break the nut loose before taking the wheel off. Put it back on snug to be safe before removing the wheel. You might need a torque wrench rated over 200 ft-lbs. I always use one to make sure it's tight enough and not for some inherent insecurity about my physical prowess. I can bust a lot of metric bolts if I want to run around looking for a replacement. Generally these bolts are big and you probably wouldn't break one (cheater bar excluded). I have a small 12 ton H-press to do my u-joints, with assorted steel sleeves and round bar for pressing and receiving the cups. Small 2+1/2 lb sledge and large plastic dead blow hammer. A stout puller is need to pull the hub bearing off the axle end. I suppose if your press is tall enough you could take the axle/hub bearing assembly in the shop and press the axle out. I don't like to beat on things too much if I can help it until I know if it will take the beating or not.
I started out handing wrenches to my Dad in the driveway so he wouldn't have to come out from under the car. I've always done my own work unless I decide my cousin needs the money and I have some to give. I don't do machine work on engines but I can operate mills and lathes pretty well. I have a decent set of tools and am pretty handy when it comes to fabrication, but don't have a welder.
I hate to say I was pretty slow this time. It took me over 4 hours on one side. That was hub bearing, ball joints, axle u-joint and rain. The brake rotor is not welded on, although it may seem to be. That's what I used the dead blow on.
This was my experience on my 2004, 2500HD. Your experience may differ and I make no claims as an expert on the subject or your particular project. Swear words are optional but generally needed.
BOB4X4 has a good point. My NAPA guys told me the same thing on the loss of quality on the Moogs. That's why I have the NAPA(was told they were Spicer/DANA).
The upper joint on mine is not a ball, but a pin that slides in the housing with a tapered seat for the knuckle end.
You need a good ball joint press set. My hub nut was 1+11/16" (I think it's actually metric. the 1+11/16 will be tight. That's good if you're using a rattle gun. ) I had to buy a socket. It will be a 3/4' drive. I have an 1/2" drive IR Thunder Gun. with a 3/4" to 1/2" drive adapter I was able to bust it loose. A 3/4" drive breaker bar would probably be better if there is a lot of rust. Break the nut loose before taking the wheel off. Put it back on snug to be safe before removing the wheel. You might need a torque wrench rated over 200 ft-lbs. I always use one to make sure it's tight enough and not for some inherent insecurity about my physical prowess. I can bust a lot of metric bolts if I want to run around looking for a replacement. Generally these bolts are big and you probably wouldn't break one (cheater bar excluded). I have a small 12 ton H-press to do my u-joints, with assorted steel sleeves and round bar for pressing and receiving the cups. Small 2+1/2 lb sledge and large plastic dead blow hammer. A stout puller is need to pull the hub bearing off the axle end. I suppose if your press is tall enough you could take the axle/hub bearing assembly in the shop and press the axle out. I don't like to beat on things too much if I can help it until I know if it will take the beating or not.
I started out handing wrenches to my Dad in the driveway so he wouldn't have to come out from under the car. I've always done my own work unless I decide my cousin needs the money and I have some to give. I don't do machine work on engines but I can operate mills and lathes pretty well. I have a decent set of tools and am pretty handy when it comes to fabrication, but don't have a welder.
I hate to say I was pretty slow this time. It took me over 4 hours on one side. That was hub bearing, ball joints, axle u-joint and rain. The brake rotor is not welded on, although it may seem to be. That's what I used the dead blow on.
This was my experience on my 2004, 2500HD. Your experience may differ and I make no claims as an expert on the subject or your particular project. Swear words are optional but generally needed.
BOB4X4 has a good point. My NAPA guys told me the same thing on the loss of quality on the Moogs. That's why I have the NAPA(was told they were Spicer/DANA).
The upper joint on mine is not a ball, but a pin that slides in the housing with a tapered seat for the knuckle end.
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I just replaced the passenger side ball joints and u-joint on my 05 dually and took 4 hours. I have a hub socket and hub removal socket that I bought off the tool truck. The removal socket is from Snap-On and is about $55. You use this socket and the hydraulics of your steering on a couple of the bolts that hold the unit hub in the spindle. This will push out the hub unit so you can re-use if it is good. I use a ball peen hammer to rap on the steering arm to remove the tie rod. You need a ball joint press set, as mentioned in previous post, unless you took spindle with ball joints to local repair shop and have them R & R the ball joints. Same with the axle shaft u-joint. I like to cut my old u-joint out with the torch, but be careful if there is grease still in the joint. The grease can get hot, expand and could blow grease all over. It seems when using the press, the yokes on the axle shafts can get distorted and you have to get them spread back apart.
Ok looking around for parts. Stopped in to Auto Zone for a part check. Got rear brakes from them a while back and they have a lifetime warranty replacement. So I figured what the heck the u-joints and ball-joints are lifetime as well. Talking duralast. Hubs 1 or 2 years but also have timken. Prices are 1/3 of the of what blackcherry said with the parts he choose. Just thinken cheaper but I donno. What are your thoughts?
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Is it possible to easily remove the entire hub/shaft assembly, replace the u-joint, and reinstall as a single unit?
1st things 1st, as you can see by some of the answers you can get the hubs off without ruining them!
Done it and yes it is not that hard.
Find another (st)dealership!!
These guys are making a killing off of the truck owners if they can get away with selling everyone a set of hubs for a u-jount replacement.
There is a thread on here for the SKF hubs (they make the stockers for Dodge/Ram) and where to get them for somewhere in the neighborhood of 170. 00 per.
Go to NAPA and buy the u-joints about 22. 00 per (and they have grease fittings).
Socket for the axle nut I got at a Federated store (said for 1/2 ton but fit my 3500).
And then your set.
Hardest part is getting off the hubs after that typical u-joint replacement.
Clean the hub and spindle before re-assembly and use anti-seize.
1st side 1. 5-3 hrs (learning curve) 2nd side 1 hour.
Bob
w
Done it and yes it is not that hard.
Find another (st)dealership!!
These guys are making a killing off of the truck owners if they can get away with selling everyone a set of hubs for a u-jount replacement.
There is a thread on here for the SKF hubs (they make the stockers for Dodge/Ram) and where to get them for somewhere in the neighborhood of 170. 00 per.
Go to NAPA and buy the u-joints about 22. 00 per (and they have grease fittings).
Socket for the axle nut I got at a Federated store (said for 1/2 ton but fit my 3500).
And then your set.
Hardest part is getting off the hubs after that typical u-joint replacement.
Clean the hub and spindle before re-assembly and use anti-seize.
1st side 1. 5-3 hrs (learning curve) 2nd side 1 hour.
Bob
w
I must be crazy cause I still can't quite understand how to take the hubs off. Some say to use a puller, others say to use the force of the power steering. There has to be an easy way to do this.....
YouTube - How to remove a rusted wheel hub bearing assembly the easy way. ‏
Go to this video, YouTube - How to remove a rusted wheel hub bearing assembly the easy way. ‏, I think he is replacing the bearing on a Chevy but this the same way it works on a Dodge.
DO NOT use a puller or slide hammer to try and remove the hub, you will end up pulling it in half and then you must replace it.
Go to this video, YouTube - How to remove a rusted wheel hub bearing assembly the easy way. ‏, I think he is replacing the bearing on a Chevy but this the same way it works on a Dodge.
DO NOT use a puller or slide hammer to try and remove the hub, you will end up pulling it in half and then you must replace it.
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Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
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Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
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Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
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What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
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