Front Wheel Bearings Longevity

[vabeach]

I am about to replace my front ball joints (dealer said it is common for lower balljoints on 95 & 96 diesels to fail - improved from '97 on to handle the diesel's weight) on my '95 2500HD and was thinking, with 100,000 miles, that I would replace the front wheel bearing assemblies given that you can't service them easily. I got a price of $238 from NAPA and $204 from Dodge. I was expecting a high price but jeez. I am also installing an EGR front brake kit complete with calipers, carbon-kevlar pads, and slotted rotors which could last me till 200,000 given I never carry or tow anything. My worry is how long the front wheel bearings typically live. I do not run a plow nor do I have the added weight of a winch and/or custom bumper. I would really appreciate input as to whether I should spend the extra money while I have it all apart anyway. I also was thinking, again as preventative maintenance, about replacing the front axle end u-joints. The Spice catalog lists the original non-zerk units (5-297X) and a greasable (5-297-1X), but the grease fitting is located on the end of one of the bearing cups which I thought might pose clearance problems even though its easier to grease then at the cross. Does anyone have experience with this. Thanks !

 

[illflem]

My stock wheel bearings have 172k on them with no problems. Since they are easy to replace later I'd wait as long as the seals look good. Do use antiseize on the axle shaft where it goes though the bearing on reassembly, if it's stuck on later it can make an easy job difficult. Replace the u-joints while it's apart though. I find it hard to believe but some say that a zerk on the cross end cap will throw things out of balance. Others say that a cross with hollow grease channels is weaker than a solid non-greaseable one. Zerk in the middle of the cross would be my choice.

 

[Cummins Corvette]

Watch out for the nasty vibrations coming from the zerk on the end cap. When aproaching mach 4. 5, it gets pretty bad.



Seriously, I really think the zerk in the end cap would be fine. I would also prefer the zerk be in the middle though. Mine has over 140k on the wheel berings with no problems so far.

 

[KYOUNG]

wheel bearings

My right front bearing went to 210K, left is still rolling with 240K. I replaced left U-joint at about 185K, with a grease zerk in side of cross, changed the right U-joint at 220K with a sealed Spicer like factory

 

[DUNE RACER]

If zerk size is a problem you could change it to the inverted type that you grease with a needle fitting, they only stick up about 1/8". There a little hard to find but handy, I use lots on my quads.