2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front Wheel Bearings

[Ramafid]

I have tried everything to remove the bearing and hub from the knuckle. I have pounded the daylights out of the back of the 4 bolts and nothing. I tried a puller made out of a hydraulic jack and nothing. I used tons of liquid wrench and nothing. I have read lots of post on this I really don't want to have to go to the dealer or repair shop. Any new ideas are welcome. Thanks



Anthony

 

[Joe G.]

Rent a BIG slide hammer.

 

[Rob Thomas]

Do you have an air-compressor? The fastest, easiest, way is to use a air-hammer, they nearly fall off. You'll likely mush the ends of the bolt heads a little, so you can either grind the heads a little to fix them, or replace them altogther.



Turn the steering wheel all the way to one side, and you can access two of the bolts,(on each side of the truck) and then turn the wheel to the opposite side and get the other two bolts (on each side).



Rob

 

[Ramafid]

Thanks for the help. I am going to try the air-hammer route and hope for the best. I sure hope this works. Thanks again for the replies.



Anthony

 

[Ramafid]

No success with the air-hammer. I have never had parts that were rusted together this bad. I tried for ten hours to bust the hub/bearing assembly free from the knuckle. I have now given up. I guess it will be a trip to the repair shop. This really bites. Thanks to all that tried to help out.



Anthony

 

[RPyle]

I have felt your pain. I made a plate, bolted to the wheel studs. I placed jack bolts in the plate that pushed against the caliper ears and the tie rod arm, used penetrating oil and even a little heat on the knuckle to help pull the oil in and expand the knuckle. You can then hammer on the plate as well if needed.

 

[grtescpa]

Originally posted by Ramafid

No success with the air-hammer. I have never had parts that were rusted together this bad. I tried for ten hours to bust the hub/bearing assembly free from the knuckle. I have now given up. I guess it will be a trip to the repair shop. This really bites. Thanks to all that tried to help out.



Anthony

Try PB blaster. Its far far better than liquid wrench, wd40 or others. Use some heat and just keep spraying. Let it cool and heat and spray it again. PB blaster is sold at pep boys. I had the same stubborn problem and the blaster helped.

 

[clawson]

I also had a prob. with this. We torched the balljoints off then pressed the bearings out. Then you must press the rest of the old balljoints out then press the new ones in. Once we decided to do that the job went a whole lot faster.



Chris

 

[STripp]

Just pulled mine off today to replace the u-joints. I didn't really have any problems. I used a 1/2' impact gun to get the bolts out, then rapped a little on the disk/hub assy with metal hammer. the vibration helps loosen the rust and the PB blaster really works. just don't beat on the disc itself. slide hammers work well, but you will still need to beat on it a little. hope it helps...

 

[STripp]

I am not sure you are aware of this, but you can remove the front disk/hub assy while it is still attached to the axle. this struck me as really odd. ( this applies to the 4X4's only ). I didn't notice if your problem is on 4x or 2X... not very observant of me huh??

 

[Ramafid]

Funny thing, I talked to one of our mechanics at work and he said to use PB Blaster also. I guess this stuff really works. I am going to get a can and spray that stuff on all week long and hopefully by the weekend it will be free enough to get off. What a PITA this has been. Thanks to all that have helped out with ideas.



Anthony

 

[Lsfarm]

Additional 'trick'

Get at least two, 6" long grade 8 bolts with the same thread as the bolts holding the hub in. Install them on opposite sides of the hub, and use a big hammer to drive the hub out.



With the heads of the bolts extending out past the U-joint and recess in the hub-carrier, you can get a pretty good swing with a 24oz. hammer [or larger].



Of course a good soaking with penetrating oil is a good idea.



Hope this helps



Greg L. the Noise Nazi

 

[daveshoe]

Make a plate puller

Visualize a dice [the kind you gamble with] on the Five face of the dice ,the four dots are drilled 5/8'' diameter in a half inch steel plate and the center dot is drilled inch and a quarter. the center to center spread of the outside holes is 3 and 7/8 inches to match the four rear bolts that you have been beating on.

purchase four 14mm x 80 mm [long] bolts to match thread pitch as greg describes and thread them in from the FRONT after you remove the 4 twelve metric bolts from the rear. Your center stub axle on the 4x4 truck serves as the push point for your super duty puller. Tighten 'em up and tap the bolts as you do so to relieve the stress [you can hear the rust breaking the bond as you tap them] I like this because it is kind and gentle to your truck and keeps everything centered up . No heating --no beating. Others have warned against seperating the hub assembly because you have to pull the outside half off first , but on a bearing replacement, who cares. I take mine apart annually and grease the bearings and have had no problems with seal failure . I also tie up the stub axle to keep it clean when servicing the bearings.

I was able to purchase these bolts in grade 8 and would want grade 5 as a minimum requirement.

Keep us posted and hope this helps