Archived Front wheel wobbles bad - need 4wd hub info

[rickhans]

My son called me after breaking down so I have not visually looked at it. After pulling the wheel and hub cover he says the hub moves side to side with the axle end staying in place. It sounds like a wheel bearing gave out. It is a '95 1/2 t. 4wd automatic. Also, when he rotates the rotor the axle turns with it which I don't think it should when in 2 wd. He was not using 4wd. I had him jack up the passenger side and see what it does. There is no play but the axle also turns with the wheel. 2 questions:

1. Is the locking mechanism in the hub like it is on a Chevy 4wd straight axle? If so the axle should not turn with the hub unlocked. What is happening?



2. To remove the rotor and hub, he said it looks like there is a large nut to remove which is against a washer. I think this was behind the nut that had the cotter pin. This sounds like a chevy hub. If we remove that nut will a bunch of pieces fall out or is it a simple process to remove the insides to get to the bearings? I tried doing on one of my Chevy's once and gave up and have always had a shop do it since then. Most everything else I do myself. Maybe it is not as mysterious as it seems. What is involved on this Dodge?

 

[dmurdock]

I can help you on part of it... .



The axles are directly connected to the hubs. . basically it's more of a front wheel drive setup, like this:



Drivers axle<->carrier<->intermediate shaft<->disconnect<->passenger axle



"2WD" is achieved by disengaging the disconnect (vacuum switch) and disengaging the front drive shaft (floor shifter). When your running down the road in "2WD", everthing except the front driveshaft is spinning, it's just not all connected.



Yes, I know it's a half-assed setup, but it's what we got... .



Hopefully someone will post on the hub assembly issue...

 

[B.G. Smith]

Front wheel bearings on 4wd

B'Gate, I have a 91 and 99 manual, both show that you have to use hub/bearing pullers to disassemble the front wheel bearing, I doubt that he will be able to do the repair without some special tools. He's not down in this end of the state is he? bg

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Getting the sealed bearing/rotor assembly off the truck can be interesting..... there are very tight tolerances between the bearing and the knuckle... . plus, it's usually rusted up pretty good.



Most folks just put the proper 12-point socket on the bolt that holds the bearing to the knuckle and pound away using a short extension... ... some success has been found by using an air-hammer.



We technically aren't dealing with hubs here... . it's just like a FWD car... . the drive axle is engaged to the sealed bearing and turns the rim/tire via the wheel studs.



It's a very simple setup... . it works well... most of the time.



Sounds to me like he has himself a bad sealed bearing. Use an arbor press to get the bearing free of the rotor.



Feel free to use lots of profanity while doing all of this... . it helps.



Matt

 

[mdwyer]

Sorry about your troubles. It only gets worse from here. To remove the hub (bearing assy) you will need to remove that big ol nut (2 11/16 socket). It is installed at 175 foot lbs so pack a lunch because it is really TIGHT!. Next remove the three bolts on the back side of the knuckle to hub. These are installed at 125 foot lbs. Now you get to bang the hub off the axle and knuckle.

Try and get the axle shaft loose first because you do not want to pull the axle shaft out. Once it is apart inspect the axle u-joint (good time to change it). Sit down if you price a hub bearing assy from the stealer, they are not cheap. Any question shoot me an email. Good luck

mike

 

[TMassoll]

couply of corrections nut is 1 11/16 snap-on has socket I just replaced mine I know truck is 1998. 5 3500. Back side bolts are 14mm 12 pt. on that year truck (1998).

Hub & Bearing Assy.

1998. 5 ? 3500 4x4

DC part # 5010018AA approx. $300. 00

Socket for axle nut 94 and up from Snap-on SIM540 $64. 00



contact:http://www.carcity.fivestardealers.com/

these guys gave me a great price on hub assy. list is near $300 and I paid $213 which included shipping.

regards,

Tom

 

[Extreme1]

The hub bearings are finally available aftermarket. NAPA gave em a price on one not too long ago - don't recall how much but cheaper than most dealers.



When you get the bearing assembly out, you need to drive the wheel studs out to move the rotor to the new bearing assembly. This is a nasty job. If it were mine, I'd do the ball joints AND the axle u-joint at the same time.



It is OK if the axle comes out with it, just be careful not to tear up the seal. You can seperate it from the bearing when it's out.



Chain swearing helps!Oo.

 

[pwknapp]

Just replaced the front rotors on mine. To get the studs out place the assembly on two 4x4's and use two 2lb mauls (Harley Davidson speed wrenches). Hold one on the stud and smack it good with the other. Usually one pop or two gets it out. Make sure your hand holding the maul on the stud is not over the other studs. I promise you this is a big mistake. :--)

 

[HoleshotHolset]

pwknapp said this: "Make sure your hand holding the maul on the stud is not over the other studs. I promise you this is a big mistake. "



I love it when we get to speak from experience on subjects such as this..... we only hope that others don't suffer our same fate!



Matt