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Fuel aeration anf low fuel pressure, normal solutions are not working.

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I've lurked for years on diesel forums because I didn't own my own diesel truck, just my brother and father did and I just help them repair them and drive them. In general most of the questions I have had have been answered quite thoroughly, so I never joined. Last summer I bought my brother's 1997 6BT powered truck for a project that I haven't gotten started on, but I wanted to solve any engine issues before that gets underway.

The truck lacks power. It starts easy, but just does not seem to be fueling as much as it should. My brother and I discovered this several years ago because every once in a while the truck will roll coal while taking off from an intersection under modest application of the accelerator and the power increase is evident. Then it might never do that again for several months. So I started learning about the fuel injection system. The first suggestion for troubleshooting was a fuel pressure gauge, so a triple gauge pod was installed with Ispro gauges for egt, boost and fuel pressure. I can see plenty of boost, but really bad fuel pressure.

The symptoms at this point: really bouncy gauge reads just over 10 psi at idle and drops more at higher power demands to about 7psi. Well that needs to be solved. At 2000 rpm the fuel pressure still will not increase with any amount of skinny pedal applied. New fuel filter, no difference. New Cummins lift pump, no difference (made in china, not branded DCFC). It still has low fuel pressure. My brother took the truck East for several years until I bought it from him that past summer. The truck struggled to keep at speed climbing Sideling Hill in Maryland but had no problem climbing the Vail pass in Colorado. Still, I have low fuel pressure. The truck had 340k on it at this point.

I did more research and found that the pressure regulator valve could cause low fuel pressure, so I bought one from TorkTek at the stock pressure setting. The biggest change was at idle I would maintain about 20 psi, but it would drop to 10 psi under modest acceleration and below with heavy acceleration. The power was still not there.

Now my reading took me to suspect air in the fuel. Everything upstream of the lift pump could have a pin hole allowing air in. The fuel heater is a prime suspect. I removed it and there was no difference. I did observe some strange behavior with the fuel gauge. After having to re-prime the system the fuel would read about 30 psi idling. Maybe I had solved it! Nope. After driving around for a bit, fuel pressure only returns to 20 psi. The truck still was weak and under power, fuel pressure would still drop low.

I dropped the fuel tank and pressurized the fuel lines under the truck and in the sender and found no signs of a leak. My next test I thought would be pretty bullet proof. I got a jug with a tap at the bottom and ran fuel directly from the jug to the lift pump right under the hood. I put the return line right back into the jug with some clear hose and found aeration! I drove around a little like this and I always had air bubbles in the return. I did some research and found that some Cummins branded lift pump were cheaply made and the DCFC china made one are preferred. The one on the truck is not DCFC branded, so may that's the issue. I pulled the pump and tried it on the bench. If I kinked down the large fuel hose I had going to the pump I could get air bubbles in the return. So I got a DCFC pump. After installing it I had 30 psi at idle until I drove it around for a bit it returned to 20 psi at idle. At higher power under any circumstances the pressure would drop to about 10psi.

That's where I'm at right now. My next thoughts are to try driving around without the fuel cap on, check again if I have air in the fuel and run the truck off the small container of diesel fuel directly into the lift pump again. I don't want to replace the fuel lines since most of this is getting harvested for my project, and I not convince that that will fix it especially since the whole fuel system was by passed with the under-hood tank.

Check out the pictures of most test tank.

What have I missed?

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Don't get sidetracked on the aeration of the return fuel. Who cares? The torkTec OFV is adjustable. Screw it down a little for some higher pressures. Fuel pressure should be minimum 17 at idle and increase while free revving to 2000 rpm. IIRC the minimum there is 24. I have mine set 5-10 psi higher. If it is dropping you have a restriction. Have you checked and cleaned the prefilter? Do you have a factory service manual? It will be the most used tool in your shop. I prefer the print manual.
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dfsm97-print/dodgeram-factory-service-manuals

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dfsm97-cd/dodgeram-factory-service-manuals
 
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I've by-passed everything up to the lift pump and used a new hose from an auxiliary tank as seen in the picture. This eliminates all old rubber hose and the pre-filter (which I changed 100 miles ago when eliminating the heater). The 90* fuel line is brand new at the same time as the pre-filter. Still direct to the lift pump by-passes that. At idle I get right around 20 psi. any amount of accelerator pedal drops it and even at a light cruise I get maybe 12 to 13 psi an not anything close to 20. I'll study that link about the fuel system. I've studied a lot of info so far, but I'm always picking up something new.
 
I was going to ask if you inspected the canister when you dropped the tank but it appears you were not using fuel from it in the last post. Very baffling. How is you fuel pressure gauge set up? Snubber or a needle valve barely cracked open?

"I can see plenty of boost, but really bad fuel pressure." That doesn't make sense. You need fuel to make boost. So what is "plenty of boost"? 20, 30, more?
 
The fuel gauge it a TorkTek setup with their banjo replacement bolt and their small orifice snubber. Originally I thought the kit I bought with the sintered metal snubber and my back yard bolt tapping job may have been to blame for the bouncy readings, so I opted for a setup with a reputation.

By plenty of boost I mean about 20 psi. it take a little longer to get there than I think it should.
 
Every now and then a new part is faulty. Have you pinched the return line to see if the pressure spikes?
 
I'll do the return pinch test. That should hopefully rule out a bad lobe too. I'll have a closer look when I'm doing my push rod galley seal. That just started gushing.
 
It’s not a lobe but an eccentric. I’ve never seen one wear to the point of not making the pump work.
 
I keep meaning to get on here and post my current status.

The truck sprung the huge oil leak from the driver's side, so it was time for some maintenance. The push rod galley cover was leaking badly. I hoped to not remove the pump and have it done in an evening, but that was a solid nope. I removed the pump so that meant the timing cover came off too. It had obvious signs of having been removed before and at 340k I figured it was for the obvious repair, the killer dowel pin. Nope. The pin was protruding some, so I made a tab and punched it back in. The crankshaft has been repaired with a speedi-sleeve. The dampener was probably shot 100k ago and the rubber was broken in a few places and swollen everywhere else. New dampener, new front main seal, went from 13.5 degrees advance to 16 degrees, new push rod galley seal and I installed the new fuel filter I got about a month ago since it hasn't been done in about 20k.

That's the part that may pertain to my issue. As I said above, I remembered changing the fuel filter when I was first trying to solve the low fuel pressure issue to no avail. When I removed the filter this time I saw the filter was black, and from what I understand that's not alarming, but in the fuel around the filter there was a lot of black particulate. After sitting a while in a glass mason jar it's all settled to the bottom. I didn't think much of it until I had the truck back together and a fuel leak fixed to my fuel pressure gauge. Fuel pressure now has been very good. I get 30 psi at idle, and at speed it may dip to about 20 psi when giving it more throttle, but then it catches right up to 25 psi and a little over. That all seems very good. However I was not expecting this.

So I have a few theories. This could be the fuel algae that boaters talk about in their diesel tanks or particles left over from really old fuel separating. It seems that solids were clogging up the filter. I was expecting it to clog up again, but so far it hasn't. I was expecting to need to run some biocide in the tank. The truck sat for an unknown amount of time before my brother bought it several years ago so maybe it mostly gone now. We'll see as I cycle through more fuel. You guys seen anything like this before?
 
The pictures of algae that I have seen show something that is slimy, not particulates. I use my pressure gauge to tell me when the filter needs replacing. I've never made it to 20k.

Although I get a slight drop when pulling trailers up steep hills my pressure never goes below my idle pressure, or get near it for that matter. When you dropped the tank did you remove the module and look inside? The module has a screen on the bottom that could be clogged as could the pickup tube. This is the old one and the new one I replaced it with last month. Notice the screen was completely worn through from rubbing on the bottom of the tank. I replaced it because my fuel gauge had become unreliable.
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I've had that out just a few months ago. It was in really good shape. When my brother first bought the truck the fuel gauge didn't work. I fixed it by extracting the sender and cleaning the resistive swiper contacts. The whole thing had a dark film over it. I forgot about that. Just a shot of brake parts cleaner made it work again and in the past 7 or 8 years I've never had an issue. If I had junk in the filter, even if most of it has been removed, my filter may be partly plugged again. I might just swap it again to check the status.
 
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