Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel cam plate tools

[Kalaehina]

What specific tools do you recomend for a cam plate removal/replacement? I always hear about this impact tool, what is it? I saw an impact screw driver set at Checkers, 1/2 inch, will this work? This is for removing that tamper proof screw. Thanks!

 

[Dennis Garrett]

You can use a 1/2, but you'll need a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, and use a 6" 3/8" extention, then your 6pt socket, or screwdriver bit. You might even need to reduce to a 1/4" extention to get between the injector lines.

 

[Deezul1]

Mine was a booger to get out so I used a Dremel tool to grind the head off and it unscrewed with my fingers after the cover was off and then replaced all of them with Allen head bolts

 

[bighammer]

I used a wood chisel. The chisel on the side of the tamper bolt head and some raps made a notch and loosened it right up.

 

[gitchesum]

I had to use a long chisel to tap the edges of the break off screw. Just put a new screw in when it went together.



BTW, what size is are those screws, I'd like to have a couple on hand for those times I drop those freakin things.

 

[Jim Fulmer]

Joe D. said in another post they were M6 x 1. 0 x 16 for the top and M6 x 1. 0 x 25 for the bottom, no my memory is not that good I wrote it down



Jim

 

[illflem]

The impact driver you're looking for is rather heavy and designed to be hit with a hammer, you wouldn't recognize it as a screwdriver. Most are 3/8" drive, cost around $10.



Something many folks fail to do before messing with the plate is to mark the stock position for future reference. Straight edge and a couple scribe marks on the housing will do it.



Calipers are nice to record how much you are deviating from the stock position when sliding it around. I've had to move quite a few back from the stock position to control egts. The sliding it full forward busness is for amateurs, if you have to do that you've got the wrong plate.

 

[DSiemens]

break off bolt

You can sometimes get the break off bolt out with a small torx socket. Drive torx socket into break off bolt's center, then turn it out. I've also used a small sharp chisel. Injector lines are always in the way.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

Be careful not to nick the injection lines. I like to use a 6" long drill bit and a torx bit to fit the hole I made in the top of the break off screw. Drive in the torx bit and you can turn it while hitting the end with a hammer to jar the screw loose. Maybe you can hook up with Koa Man in Kailua for some advice.

 

[Kernel]

Like it was said, a torx bit tapped into the center of the breakoff screw works good (use a small drill bit to get the hole in the breakoff screw a little bit bigger). If possible, get replacement screws for the afc housing.



Also, be careful with the regular screw driver head bolt. I couldn't get mine out at all, and messed up the slot. After using a chisel, half of the bolt head broke off (accidently) right over top of the cut part of the locking washer and the bolt came right out by hand, lucky break, but worked. Hope this helps.



PS... Mark the place of the stock plate and go ahead and put that sucker full forward (don't mess around with the stock position stuff ) .



Scott

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by Kernel

PS... Mark the place of the stock plate and go ahead and put that sucker full forward (don't mess around with the stock position stuff ) .

Kalaehina was the lucky one to win Piers Christmas contest. He got a free #11 plate and Mag-Hytec front diff cover!



Just kidding K.



Anyhow that tool I told you Daniel used, well I PM'd him and he said it was a homemade job one of his friends that was @ BMD GO'n made! Sorry!



Anyhow I'd give the torx bit idea a try!

 

[Kalaehina]

Okay torx it is, I think I'll try that strategy. Also need to record where the stock is right? It's okay got smoke, I kinda gave it away in another post, I'm a marked man now ,

 

[Hardrider5]

Tools

I just did mine on Christmas day so the process is fresh for me. A few Tricks & tools helped me complete the removal & installation in a little over an hour. You can download an instruction sheet showing required tools off the TST web sight but here are a few things not spelled out that will help.



1. I used a good Impact Driver that was 3/8" but I used an adaptor to reduce it to 1/4" to allow for a 6" long extention & #15 Torx that immediately removed the break off screw with a small blow from a hammer. This setup allowed me to reach the breakoff screw without fuel line removal.



2. It's a good idea to get a good extendable magnet so your not dropping the screws under the truck.



3. Parts houses sell a small tool about the size of fountian pen that allows you to lock a screw on the end to reinstall it. These are made for Mechanics putting the little screws back in ignition distributors. I used this tool to hold the Plate screws during reinstall. I was nervous about a screw falling into the pump & this ellimated the problem.



4. One of the guys recommended using allen head bolts when reinstalling the afc housing & as recommended, they were easily found at home Depo.



5. One of the AFC housing screws & both plate screws required the large Standard Screw Driver bit along with the impact driver.



The rest of the tools are listed on that Tst web sight but in general are 7 to 10mm 1/4 or 3/8 drive sockets, extentions, ratchets, torque wrench ect.



Hope that helps.