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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fuel Chime... Its getting time to fix it. Need Input from y'all!

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 4X4 Question?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Thermostat bolt tourque?

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Ok, I have taken it for 2 years, and now it is time to fix... this weekend while the transmission is out, how hard would it be to fix the sending unit?? I think that is the culprit behind that annoying chime. . I have heard you can do the repair without even dropping the fuel tank, just leaving enough room to get to the sending unit; is this true?? Please let me know, as well as what parts I need to get! can you get the sending unit from NAPA, or is it a DC part?? All replies are appreciated!



-Chris-
 
No, you have to either lift the bed or drop the tank to remove the sending unit. Having it on a lift for a trans replacement will actually make it harder.

The sender is a dealer only item but not too bad - $35

Many times if you get a lame parts guy they will try to sell you the entire $300 module, that's not what you need.
 
There was another thread a while back (a month?) about the same thing. The author said that lifting the bed was far easier than dropping the tank. All you need to do is lift the drivers side of the bed just enough to work under it. It sounded like only 6 inches or so. I think there is only 4, maybe 6 bolts and a wiring harness to deal with. I can't remember the thread subject, but try a search under fuel sending unit.



Sticks
 
Bill... It is going to be on the ground, and I will not be able to lift the bed, due to a fully loaded steel toolbox, and headache rack with bedrails... way too much weight. . I know the tank is fairly empty, so I may just unbolt the tank, and lower it on the transmission jack, since the transmission will already be out. . any comments or advice??? Thanks y'all!



-Chris-
 
There was also a thread about how to repair the sending unit you have with a couple of washers.



Dropping the tank is a two person job, not because of it's weight (unless it is full of fuel) but because of it's size. Take the screws out that hold the filler neck to the bed first, loosen the straps, then drop the tank far enough to disconnect the wire plug and fuel lines. If I remember right we put the front tires on ramps to give us a little more space to work, plus the truck needed to be raised anyway to allow the tank to clear the frame. Removing the big plastic nut that holds the float/sender assy in was the hardest part of the whole job.
 
GAmes about covered it. The large nut is a piece of cake with large Channel-Locs or a strap wrench. Manual says to replace the large o-ring under it but I never have with no problem. The fuel lines just need to be hand squeezed on the tabs and pulled off, just push back on. Hardest part for me has been the electrical connector. Here's instructions with links to the washer fix http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel_sender/fuel_sender.htm
 
I watched the stealer's service guy from a distance drop my tank when he replaced my sender (under warranty). They wouldn't let me in the service area (insurance) so I watched from the door. Anyway, he used a couple of 1" wide nylon tie-down straps to support the tank as he loosened the straps. These allowed him to drop the tank down far enough to get the whole unit out.



After he was done, I went and filled the tank. As it topped off, diesel started running all over the pavement under the truck. Apparently he didn't get the big nut on tight enough (or the gasket didn't seal). He had to drop the tank, using the straps again, while it was on a lift, full of fuel! He sorta got the front of his work clothes wet with diesel... like he'd been hit with a bucket of it! Fortunately for him, it was the end of his work day.
 
Chris,

There is also a beam under the front of the tank, when I had to drop mine, it had to remoove the beam to get the tank lowered. If you have like a gal or 2 in the tank, it is easy to manuever and controll. the connectors for the fuel lines has a lock collar. you sqeeze and pull forward on the inner collar then you can pull the fuel lines straight off.

I did all this when I put on a prefilter and a pusher pump.
 
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