Fuel drops on the CP3

[Mark.Smith]

Hello all. I have a 2005 2500 and there's drops of fuel on the bottom of my CP3. From the search and reading here, I guess this is common in cold weather(its winter in Colorado now, lol). Is there something simple I can check without removing the pump? If I do remove the pump, are they re-buildable?

 

[cerberusiam]

They can be re-sealed with some larger o-rings that may help the leaking. The leak is the result of the differnet expansion rates of the pump pieces so in certian places a large ro-ring will seal better.

 

[JJPage]

You can check the snugness of the #30 torx screws that hold the gearcase pump to the back of the main pump body, IIRC there are 3 or 4, just do not go gorilla on them. If you scroll down to the bottom of this post, it has pictures: http://relentlessdiesel.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5

 

[TCDiesel]

I would Never suggest tightening the 4 Bolts on the Back of the pump (GP),If you over thigh-ten them You can break the EC shaft, Sorry Cerb/JJPage Not disagreeing that it won't work But if the owner snaps the Shaft I would be on the Hook for it,If its leaking between Manifold and Body you need to have it look at BC if the inner seal is gone its leaking out the weep Hole, if the hole gets plugged and the outer seal is bad You are going too be Making Oil. Yes done by the correct person and the pump qualifies it can be refurbish to0 like New.

 

[Bob4x4]

I would Never suggest tightening the 4 Bolts on the Back of the pump (GP),If you over thigh-ten them You can break the EC shaft, Sorry Cerb/JJPage Not disagreeing that it won't work But if the owner snaps the Shaft I would be on the Hook for it,If its leaking between Manifold and Body you need to have it look at BC if the inner seal is gone its leaking out the weep Hole, if the hole gets plugged and the outer seal is bad You are going too be Making Oil. Yes done by the correct person and the pump qualifies it can be refurbish to0 like New.

Yup I have seen minor issues turn major by some DIY work

 

[JJPage]

I would Never suggest tightening the 4 Bolts on the Back of the pump (GP),If you over thigh-ten them You can break the EC shaft, Sorry Cerb/JJPage Not disagreeing that it won't work But if the owner snaps the Shaft I would be on the Hook for it,If its leaking between Manifold and Body you need to have it look at BC if the inner seal is gone its leaking out the weep Hole, if the hole gets plugged and the outer seal is bad You are going too be Making Oil. Yes done by the correct person and the pump qualifies it can be refurbish to0 like New.

I can understand you not suggesting this, as you are in the business and may be held responsible. I was remiss in not stating the inch lb spec that the torx screws should be tightened, cannot remember off the top of my head what those torque specs are. Todd, it's fine to disagree, no offense taken, that's what makes the forum go round.

Yup I have seen minor issues turn major by some DIY work

Bob, I wasn't suggesting the OP do the Relentless pump mod, only for identification purposes. (I did destroy my oem fca, modding it on my first try) so not only have I seen, I have accomplished:-laf. But for argument's sake, isn't DIY a major purpose of this forum? I mean, I believe a transmission professional would advise against an owner servicing and adjusting their own bands, or a motor mechanic not wanting you to adjust your own valve lash... just saying.



Jess

 

[Bob4x4]

I can understand you not suggesting this, as you are in the business and may be held responsible. I was remiss in not stating the inch lb spec that the torx screws should be tightened, cannot remember off the top of my head what those torque specs are. Todd, it's fine to disagree, no offense taken, that's what makes the forum go round.





Bob, I wasn't suggesting the OP do the Relentless pump mod, only for identification purposes. (I did destroy my oem fca, modding it on my first try) so not only have I seen, I have accomplished:-laf. But for argument's sake, isn't DIY a major purpose of this forum? I mean, I believe a transmission professional would advise against an owner servicing and adjusting their own bands, or a motor mechanic not wanting you to adjust your own valve lash... just saying.



Jess

I agree it's just too many people get in over their head so a little warning up front may save some headache down the road. You may have noticed I do give a bit of advice and info to the masses

 

[TCDiesel]

The problem I have run into is the TQ spec doesn't work, In order to correctly TQ the GP You MUST feel the drag on the Eccentric Shaft,In most cases!!!! just snug will Work when just adding the GP, but if its to Lose or to tight its snap ugh. Again most cases ( I know this BC I have removed 100s of Broken GPs/shaft its just to tight) when changing the GP. Its rare But when putting on NEW GP the Eccentric shaft needs a few thou shaved of for correct drag.

 

[JJPage]

You may have noticed I do give a bit of advice and info to the masses

Yes Sir, you do!

The problem I have run into is the TQ spec doesn't work, In order to correctly TQ the GP You MUST feel the drag on the Eccentric Shaft,In most cases!!!! just snug will Work when just adding the GP, but if its to Lose or to tight its snap ugh. Again most cases ( I know this BC I have removed 100s of Broken GPs/shaft its just to tight) when changing the GP. Its rare But when putting on NEW GP the Eccentric shaft needs a few thou shaved of for correct drag.

This is good info Todd, but what you are saying is, BOP or Arson III, are bound to fail, because there is no way to test the drag on the drive shaft of the gear pump... unless you remove the CP3 to install either of these kits, which neither advise nor recommend. What do you use to test the drag? Simply feel, or do you have equipment that measures the resistance?



If this is really that critical, and I'm not doubting it, shoudn't II and Wicked inform the folks buying their products? And then, too much drag/resistance to one person may be just right to another... slippery slope when you bomb.

 

[TCDiesel]

Their are risks Involved in any modification(s) But yes failures have occurred (rare but do) ... ... Hey Todd my name is ***** (**** on CF) I installed an Arson 3 kit on my stock pump, well tried. Apparently the gear cover on the rear of the pump did not fully seat and caused the small shaft to break. I was wondering if that item could be replaced and the pump tested and sent back to me. Thanks,**** Sat 12/*/2012 8:55 AM

 

[Mark.Smith]

Thanks for all the replies. FWIW, I'm not interested in modifying anything on the truck, just wanted to know if there was something simple I could do or if its rebuildable so its only a couple of hundred vs $700 or so for a new one.

 

[TCDiesel]

Generally I will refurbish the owners pump,I cannot promise the exact cost ,But in most cases $500. 00 to $600. 00, just some small mods that will Not effect the durability will add to the pumps life, If I was to GO new I would Go 6. 7 pump, its a direct replacement with just tweaking the HP Line (been done 100s of times) and changing the feed line, Its almost impossible to get a NEW 5. 9 Pump almost all are remans.