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Fuel Econmy Upgrades

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stacking w/ injectors?

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... . However, my heavy foot always offsets any gains that might come from that. I think the best way to optimize your fuel economy is to drive with a light foot, keep your tires inflated properly, and run with the wind. ;)
this was my problem too (and by "was" I mean up till this tank the same). I'm now at almost 400 miles with more than 3/4 of a tank full. I've never seen that before... My fuel float is submerged for the first 15 to 20 gallons with this tank, so it falls fast after 1/2 and at one mark past half it has 20 gallons. When I fill it again and calculate the mileage, I'll know whether or not I will continue to drive this way. The odd thing is that if I was driving like this last year, I would have been getting shot at.
 
My optimum speed/RPM is 60mph...



A lot of people would think you're crazy for going 60, but I've found it's quite easy to do. Here in OH trucks over 4-tons empty weight have a limit of 55, so most of them go 60. Sometimes I'll just pick one and follow him, so I have an "excuse" for going slow.



Most of the time I drive exactly the speed limit (65).



The best way to increase your fuel mileage is to lie about it.



I have always said that I believe most people choose a fuel mileage they're happy with and report that (and believe it).



Ryan
 
This showed up (unsolicited) in my inbox this morning from one of the Oregon Dodge Dealers:

Are you noticing that gas prices keep going UP, but your fuel economy keeps going DOWN? Then it is time to give
you fuel econmomy and performance a KICK!!! With our Special MPG Package.



We will perform a MotorVac fuel system Service, This service includes: replacement of your dirty air filter and replacing
the air in your tires with NITROGENall for just $199. 95 (regular priced upto $259. 95)

WOW... $200 to replace your air filter and put air in your tires. Or, you could buy magic beans, plant them and hope a biodiesel plant grows. I hope they don't snare anyone with this nonsense.
 
We put nitrogen in our aircraft tires but there is no advantage to it by using it in a truck tire since they aren't subjected to the same wear tear an aircraft tire is.



I'm surprised I don't see more mileage boxes in use the way the fuel prices are going.
 
I don't know why and I'm not willing to change anything - but I am getting 28. 5 to 30 mpg - "physically" not electronically. I went from Houston to Orange, TX at the border filled up there... went to Orlando, FL filled up - spent a week there - topped off before I left and made it back to Houston on two tanks.

I was coming back from Odessa, TX with a hard tail wind at the end of March and figured 31+ mpg.

I bought the truck over a year ago and put in an Edge EZ and nothing else. I run Injector cleaner through it pretty often but other than that - I have no idea what the previous owner did.

I am starting to get a white smoke - 175k miles so need to pull an injector and replace whats in it now.

Just the facts - no BS - no reason too...







Would you like to explain how you can get this fantastic fuel mileage where no one else can.



If you do!
 
My truck gets around 16 mpg. I just went to TX and back 2400 miles. I hit 20 mpg on two tanks on the way down the best I have ever seen from it. I picked up a load of trailers and got 7. 7 on the way back worst I ever got running 3-4 mpr over the seed limit. Pulling around 15k. The truck is stock. I have been looking at a smarty jr and manuel hubs. On this trip down I left the front drive shaft out, u-joint didnt get here on time. I am wondering if that is why I hit 20mpg for the first time? If I could do 20 empty and 10. 5 loaded I would be a happy camper.



04. 5 3500 drw cc 373 6speed 50k miles

93 2500 srw xc 354 auto 250k miles
 
Removing the front driveshaft prevents you from turning the transfercase internals and the driveshaft itself... a significant amount of drag.
 
A lot of people would think you're crazy for going 60, but I've found it's quite easy to do. Here in OH trucks over 4-tons empty weight have a limit of 55, so most of them go 60. Sometimes I'll just pick one and follow him, so I have an "excuse" for going slow.



Ryan





I have found lately that if I cruise 60mph on my way to work (PA Turnpike), I will have a line of people following me at that speed... I think a bunch of them are starting to realize the impact of higher fuel costs. Seems some people are heeding the "slow down"...



And to put it into perspective, I have *cruised* this stretch of the TP (with a lot of other traffic) at speeds approaching 100mph for my 13 mile duration... and that was just keeping up...
 
Removing the front driveshaft prevents you from turning the transfercase internals and the driveshaft itself... a significant amount of drag.



I had the front driveshaft out of mine the other day to check u-joints and such and could not notice a differance at all when I drove it. Isn't most of the drag caused by the front axle spinning all the time?



BTW the front driveshaft has never been off and flange at the tc was seized on. About 5 minutes of pounding with a dead slam and it came off. I put a little antiseize on there for the next time it needs to come off.
 
I had the front driveshaft out of mine the other day to check u-joints and such and could not notice a differance at all when I drove it. Isn't most of the drag caused by the front axle spinning all the time?



BTW the front driveshaft has never been off and flange at the tc was seized on. About 5 minutes of pounding with a dead slam and it came off. I put a little antiseize on there for the next time it needs to come off.







Every little bit adds up... think about it, 10 psi in the tires will affect fuel mileage... do you feel that in performance?



It might not *rob* great amounts of power, but it doesn't take much to *rob* mileage... especially when you're trying to just cruise along with as little load on the engine as possible.



They don't call it parasitic losses for nothing...
 
I'm not disagreeing with you steve, I'm just saying by sop I couldn't notice. I'm assuming if I went to manual hubs the differance would be very noticeble in turning and coasting.



A couple psi low in tires and I can feel the differance.
 
I'm not disagreeing with you steve, I'm just saying by sop I couldn't notice. I'm assuming if I went to manual hubs the differance would be very noticeble in turning and coasting.



A couple psi low in tires and I can feel the differance.









Locking and unlocking the hubs is a night/day difference in feel...
 
I don't think you would be able to feel the difference in drag caused by the axle. Remember the amount of torque that motor puts out and the weight of the truck. But that drag amounts to a certain amount of roll resistance. the more role resistance the less full economy. You cant tell when your tires are down 10psi but it is costing you something. I would think the axle drive shaft and transfer case parts would be a lot more drag. I read a article on the removal of the jack shaft on a snowmobile, going to a direct drive made by black magic with the same gear ratio. The sled picked up 4mph (I dont remember the final drive hp gain) do to the reduction in spin mass, only about 14 pounds of parts were removed. This was done on a dino.
 
GEEZ!!! My 01 got the best milage of the 4 ctds I've had since 96' It got around 22 (hand calc) with the stock tires after about 35k on the odometer going 60 with 373's and fuel additive. I gotta believe there was a mistake made with the calc... my $0. 02. 16. 8 seems to be the average city/hwy milage with my past two even with 35's
 
the dynatrac free spin gave us 0. 5 mpg the grid heater delete and cfm+ gave us 0. 1 mpg the smarty jr 1. 5 mpg fitch . 1 mpg psm cool hose tag . 1 mpg 5"turbo back w donoldson m90535 . 2 mpg . air tabs and taylor wings . 5 mpg . monday we are changing turbo to ads3000, pulse manafold and dual cp3, we are hoping for . 5 mpg june 10 changing cam to pdr all users claming 2+mpg next will look at adding more timing and adding 2,000 more rail pressure these no. are towing gcvw 21,000 lb we started out at 9 mpg now at 12 think we will be at 15
 
I have about 100 miles to go before I'd normally need to fill up and I'm still a hair above 1/2 on the fuel gauge. That means I'm still over 20 gallons. So I figure I'll get another 300 miles. If that works out to be true, I'll have used 48 gallons for 800 miles of city driving. Not bad for my truck. I've been keeping the boost down around 5 on acceleration and trying to anticipate lights, basically driving the truck like I was peddling a bike to save my strength. It seems like its made a big difference. I'm still on the same tank...

I think conservative driving habits or the ability to resist bad habits are the most effective, cheapest and safest mod you can do.

I'm running the smarty on 9 with mild TM.
 
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Do you think it would work?



Well, you will see fuel economy improve, but not from the small amount of hydrogen this thing produces. Rather, from this:



hydrogen website said:
You will need to lean your fuel consumption, the addition of a good egas producing hydrogen/oxygen cellwill keep your engine temp. s cool!! We highly recommend watching your temp. gauge when first installed, to see it will work for your car.



Where does the energy to liberate the hydrogen come from, anyway?



My neighbor is big on stuff like this. When I pointed out that Mythbusters tried it and couldn't make it work, he simply dismissed it by saying they did it wrong. Of course, that's because everyone on Earth except a very select few are being kept away from "the secret". But for a fee, those select few are willing to tell you the secret.



Anyone who tells you about all the patents for engines with 150 MPG or technologies that are being "suppressed" by "they" is selling you snake oil. Plain and simple. Remember - a patent absolutely does not imply feasibility or practicality.



Ryan
 
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