Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) fuel filter 94...looks like a pita

[MCharlebois]

changing the fuel filter this weekend,any advise would be appreciated



thanks marcel

 

[mwilson]

Marcel,

I had a '94 and I think I used to lay on top of the engine and ran my right hand in between the brake lines and under the intake horn. You can get a filter wrench on it that way plus spin it off and keep ahold of it. This is a spot towards the front of the engine where you can grab the filter to bring it out with your left hand while holding it from underneath and moving it forward with your right hand. You will lose some skin on your right forearm the first time, can't be helped. Maybe throw on a long sleeved shirt before you start.

You need to drain it and unplug the sensor before you put the wrench to it. Also after you drain it you may want to pop the drain hose as well, I can't remember if I brought mine out with the hose on or off. It's been too long.



When you get it changed and your arm is done bleeding you will have to prime the system. On top of the filter head are the inlet and outlet connections. Look at the forward fitting, there should be a small plug in the center of it, 10mm wrench I think. Loosen that a bit and then pump the primer until you see fuel come out of that fitting, stop pumping and tighten it back up. That indicates the filter is full and makes the truck start much easier.

It may take many pumps, don't give up.

Go find a broom handle or something to pump the button with, then you are standing on the ground rather than trying to reach in over the fender.



If you run into trouble let us know.



Others will have more tips to add, I'm sure. It has been long enough that I may have left something out... .



Mike.

 

[MCharlebois]

thanks Mike,



i dont mind losing a little blood as long as i get it right the first time:-laf:-laf



my truck is leaking fuel at this point ,souds like the little return line hose because it starts instantly?



marcel

 

[mwilson]

Probably is, might be a good time to change it while the filter is off. That is another blood loss project... ... ... :-laf

Pump the primer to pressurize the return system before you start changing the filter, see if you can pinpoint the leak that way.....



Mike.

 

[MLee]

Mike has given you some good advice, Now for a little bite more. After the wounds heal , go to Genoe's web site and order the Prime-loc relocation kit. This kit moves the filter out where you can get to it and not have to fight the monster that hides in the tangled bunch of wires and you'll be wound free. I purchased one a couple years after I bought my truck, and have enjoied it ever since.

I relocated mine a little different, go to my old reader's rigs gallery below my signature and you'll see what I mean.

 

[Joe G.]

Changing the fuel filter is pretty easy. The trick to it is to remove the two nuts that hold the master cylinder in place. Then lean the master cylinder toward the fender. There is enough flex in the brake lines to allow that. That will give you plenty of room to work.

 

[Bill Stockard]

Mike has given you some good advice, Now for a little bite more. After the wounds heal , go to Genoe's web site and order the Prime-loc relocation kit. This kit moves the filter out where you can get to it and not have to fight the monster that hides in the tangled bunch of wires and you'll be wound free. I purchased one a couple years after I bought my truck, and have enjoied it ever since.

I relocated mine a little different, go to my old reader's rigs gallery below my signature and you'll see what I mean.

After I bought my '97, I didn't think I needed to spend the money on a Prime-Loc kit, but after the first filter change, my arms looked like I had been in a fight with a bobcat. I installed the PrimeLoc from Geno's and no more blood loss. It worked great for 100K miles. When I traded trucks, I removed the Prime-Loc and sold it to local TDR member for use on his truck.



Bill

 

[hsmith]

Like Joe G said, lay the brake M/C to the side for easy access. Maybe I should say, easier access.

 

[MCharlebois]

thanks for the replies, much appreciated



marcel

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Tough is changing one w/ an Espar Heater & Banks Twin Ram.

 

[MCharlebois]

changed it and no blood loss:-laf:-lafmy fuel leak however is out the bottom of the filter ???do i have to buy a new pigtail for the wif light ... ... ... still leaking



marcel

 

[MLee]

We assumed that you changed the gasket/O-RING? on the WIF plug. Does it look like it might be leaking where the wires go through housing? or out the drain hole? If the Drain hole, I'd replace it. That seal is probable shot Geno's has them.

 

[MCharlebois]

yes i did the gasket ,ill check genos... ..... thanks



marcel

 

[mwilson]

Marcel,

Geno's price is right in line with everyone else, plus they have them in stock.

Freightliner didn't have any at all in the PDC's.

Only thing thing that might be a little faster for you is trying a local Fleetguard dealer... ...

Part Number is 3831852S.



Mike.



Just for fun I checked J&B International for you, they can't get anything unless they do a direct ship order, same as me.

Geno's is most likely the best bet.

 

[MCharlebois]

thanks mike,

you have been a valuable friend on here and it is much appreciated!!!!!!!!!!



keep smiling marcel

 

[HEMI®Dart]

I had a hell of a time trying to find a 3831852-S. Went to 1st cummins dealer: not-in-stock. Dodge dealer: no, Napa, autozone don't show a listing. Yankee-Kenworth = no, Fleetpride= no. Cummins Northeast has 2 in stock. I bought the 2. 3 hours of running around. Do yourself a favor, and keep a new one on hand. You never know when you'll need one.