Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Filter CHange in a 96 12V...Questions..

[roperteacher]

Hello there! We have 3 CTD's in the family. 06, 02 and a 96 Laramie 5 speed. I change the Fuel filters in the 02 and 06 very easily. Never have done the one on the 96 myself. What is the procedure for the "Spin on" type of fuel filter? Does the system prime itself or do you have to let the air out somehow? Thanks!

 

[dpuckett]

Not sure on the "newer" 12v engines, but on the banjo bolt in the fuel line coming out of the fuel filter on the 1st Gens, there is a smaller bolt (10mm head) that you can crack to bleed the air out. I usually fill the filter with injector cleaner/ lube additive and screw it on. I keep a foot on the pedal to give more fuel if it gets some air and sputters, but after about 10sec, it does just fine.



There is a WIF sensor you have to unplug before you spin off the old filter. Then the sensor unscrews out of the old filter. New filter should include an o-ring to go on the sensor. There is also a square cut o-ring on the threaded part on the filter head that you need to make sure there is one of. I normally reuse it if it doesnt fall out.



Hope this gets you going.



Daniel

 

[EKlem]

The toughest thing about the 96 is getting at the filter. It is hard to get the filter in and out of where it is without spilling some fuel so take the necessary precautions to protect your workspace.



As mentioned above, there is a wif sensor so you will need to unplug it. Then, you simply spin off the old filter and remove it. Once it is out, spin the wif sensor out of the bottom. The new filter should come with a new oring to install the wif sensor with. There is also an oring on the threads on the mount that the filter spins onto. You need to make sure to remove the old one before putting the new one on. Once that is installed, I fill the filter. Make sure to wet the ring on the top of the filter and then screw it back on. If you have filled the filter and start it will a little throttle, it should have no problems getting the air out. Otherwise, you will have to play with the bleed screw and the primer button on the lift pump.

 

[biggy238]

The way the cables/hoses/etc run, it's impossible to get a fuel filled filter into place.



I change the filter (orings and such) empty, crack one of the two fuel line banjos as said before, and then I take a broom handle and put on the lift pump primer button and proceed to pump until I see fuel come out around the banjo (don't actually remove the bolt) When you see a steady stream of fuel come out, close the banjo off and give it about 5 more jabs with the broom handle. The truck should start and run.

 

[DBogo]

start by draining all the fuel out at the bottom of the filter using the drain, unplug the WIF sensor then unscrew it, practice putting the filter in and out a few times (may sound silly but when you have one that is half full its hard to do without spilling) make sure all your o rings are there put your WIF on the new one put the filter back on, use a broom handle to prime the truck with the bulb its much easier this way, prime it about 45-50 times then start it with your foot to the floor it will start like hell and pop and bang and smoke then it should clear up and your on your way, if it dont prime it 50 more times and you shoudl be good to go

 

[JJW_ND]

Very easy....

Use a strap wrench with a 10-12" extension which gets your wrench above everything. The filter can be very tight so position then strap near the top of the filter or the filter will crush. I work from the top (over the driverside fender). I add a long rub hose to get the fuel drain below the differential ... reach in and press up on the WIF drain valve (bottom of filter). Drain as much fuel as you can. Unplug the WIF sensor (but do not attemp to remove the WIF from the filter yet) and pay attention to this wire as you spin off the filter as it can get twisted to the point of damage. Position strap wrench over filter (insert WIF wire inside first). Use your ratchet via extension to get the filter loose enough to spin by hand. Remove strap wrench. Spin off filter (watch WIF wires). When it is off, you can work it out from its locatoin going under the wires, steering shaft etc (keeping the filter verticle (not spilling) towards the drivers fender and then pull in up and out. I have 4W Antilock, and I use a FS19519 filter which is taller then the stock filter and I get mine in any out with no problems.



Transfer the WIF sensor using the new oring. Reach in and remove the old oring that is on the threaded shaft of the filter housing. Install new oring (square cut) in its place. Add a little oil to the spin on oring on top of the filter.



Now you have a choice... . either pre fill the filter or install dry. I have down both. I now always install dry ... . less mess. Hand tighten as tight as you can with clean hands and a clean filter (watch the WIF wire again). Plug WIF sensor back together.



Whether you prefilled or not use the hand pump (located below the fuel filter) to pump up until you here a "weezing" sound and start to feel resistance when pushing the hand pump. I have never cracked fuel lines etc. When I hear the "weezing" sound (fuel returning) I know the system is primed. If you start with a dry filter it takes alot of pumps. The truck will start and idle rough for a second or two but will start and keep running. This is the same as hitting the start key a time of two on your newer trucks to bleed the system.



I have changed my filter over 20 times over the years and now using the taller filter have not problems. Having done it along side the road in temps below zero and heavy snow... . one can do this pretty fast with a little practice.



jjw

ND

 

[Dr.Bob]

I use to remove the 2 nuts that hold the power break on, slide it frw that leaves a nice hole to work in. Next get a fass system then you just replace the filter and turn the key on and it fills your filter for you plus you are double filtering your fuel.

 

[Cooker]

Next get a fass system then you just replace the filter and turn the key on and it fills your filter for you plus you are double filtering your fuel.

I would not sacrifice the reliability of the standard lift pump just to make my FF changes easier

 

[EKlem]

I use to remove the 2 nuts that hold the power break on, slide it frw that leaves a nice hole to work in. Next get a fass system then you just replace the filter and turn the key on and it fills your filter for you plus you are double filtering your fuel.

Rather than going to a fass, you could use a fuel filter relocation kit. I see that Genos has them on a limited run again. They look quite easy to change and you would retain the bombproof stock lift pump.



I am able to get my filter in and out without spilling fuel although it is not easy. I don't think that I have changed anything that would make it easier but I hear a lot of people who say that they will spill it if they try. Maybe having long arms helps, I don't know.

 

[Dr.Bob]

I did not do anything to my lift pump and I like the fact that I am double filtering my fuel.

 

[Cooker]

I don't really see any need to add additional filtration to my fuel system, but if I did I presonally would look at less expensive ways to do so.



Personal preference I guess.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Whether you prefilled or not use the hand pump (located below the fuel filter) to pump up until you here a "weezing" sound and start to feel resistance when pushing the hand pump. I have never cracked fuel lines etc. When I hear the "weezing" sound (fuel returning) I know the system is primed.

jjw

ND

Same here never crack a line to bleed.

 

[RHebert]

I added a second fuel filter, don't recall the exact model number, but it's a Racor that takes the screw on cartridges and has a clear bowl on the bottom. I also added the WIF sensor to it and moved the factory WIF wiring over to it since it's now the first filter inline. I fabricated a bracket to the side of the master cylinder and mounted it there. I use the 10 micron filter elements and usually change it two or three times before I do a stock filter change. The best thing about the Racor is it has a priming buttom similiar to the one on the lift pump. After a filter change, I just pump it till I hear the overflow valve making noise and then start the engine. Since it's right next to the master cylinder, it's so easy to reach and every time I pop the hood I can get a visual of the crud that's in the bottom of the bowl.